Dazza77

Hi
Are there any pro painters who can advise me
Am restoreing the paint underneath and underneath alot is covered with rubberized sound barrier, I've removed the wax oil and sanded down the rust parts,mainly along the seams,can I paint these areas that I've sanded down with por15 then paint the rest with epoxy primer 2k,over the existing rubber sound barrier, then spray a fresh coat of rubberized sound barrier, then 02c blue.
basically I wanted to know if the epoxy primer will be ok on the existing sound barrier???

RockyRoad

You want to remove the rubbery stone chip. Water can get behind as it gets old and rust the metal behind. You’ve no way of knowing about it until it’s too late so better to make sure there’s no problems hiding. I would personally skip the Por15 and use a zinc primer instead then coat that with the epoxy then stonechip. That’s what I’m doing on my Bugeye.

Disclaimer - I’m far from a pro painter.

Dazza77

Would it be better to remove the rubber sound barrier and coat it with jenonite rust converter and then prime with epoxy 2k primer, then new rubberized sound barrier???
or etch it first after jenonite????

96sti

The rubbery sealer Is actually sprayable seam sealer that they put beetween the panels also.

RockyRoad

You’d be better to remove the rust altogether with a wire brush on a grinder/drill. Yes it’ll take longer and be more effort but if a jobs worth doing...

Silver Scooby Sport

iTrader: (15)

Have a search online for www.buzzweld.co.uk there's plenty of advice and products available to do the job from rust removal to coating afterwards.

Conor.s1

I’ve done the same on my bugeye sti prodrive just recently.

use fibre disk from screwfix (black or purple version) and take off all of the undercoat, waxoyl, stone chip etc etc.

find the inevitable rust.

grind it off, cut out and or weld as required.

use rust bullet acid etch treatment, spray on, leave to work and then wash off with warm water, leave to dry.

paint underside with rust bullet

seam sealer in areas removed as required

scuff up rust bullet with red scotch Pad and then shutz on the tint-able raptor, tinted same as body or preferred colour.

Enjoy.

nicam49

I've just read the marketing blurb from rust bullet. I'm no metallurgist, but that and other companies always talk about 'soaking through the rust' which I find a comforting illusion but also incredulous that a liquid or anything other than molecular acid (Alien) can 'soak' into a metal and scale, especially as its xylene based which will evaporate off before your very eyes. Another possible fib is Waxoyl claims of 'powerful rust killers'. Yeah? like what? The very fact that every year I apply waxoyl then the following year before I apply more (I bought a very large tin) I have to scrape off the previous year's coating which is now falling off anyway due to the accrued rust underneath it.

ImprezaResto

Yep, there is no substitute for removing as much trace of rust as possible and then covering (encapsulation) the treated area with a suitable hardwearing coating of your choice.

I wirewheeled the underside and started with welding, jenolite rust removal and then zinc primer, bit of red oxide primer for toughness. I think I might stone chip next then finally coat with Dinitrol but I am a long way off that.

Good luck mate. It's ballache but it will be worth it if you do it right.

Conor.s1

They all claim a lot of the same stuff, rust bullet, POR15 etc.

I didn’t bother with any of the soak into rust nonsense. I cut out my sills and replaced with brand new, each side from Subaru and bare metalled the entire underside cutting out rust in the arches and replacing as we went.

i used the rust bullet purely for easiness as I could spray the floor and brush it on in the gaps / lines, numerous coats and dried solid. Hard to get off even with wire wheel on The drill.

I think it’s all personal preference at some level. Get the rust away in full or as good as, and get it covered up with a paint suitable for bare metal and corrosion prevention. The rest is just colours and names.

hope you get there as you want it, enjoy.

Dazza77

Well ,I got my self a Milwaukee grinder,and gunna start to take all the rubberized layer underneath off,and paint it first with epoxy primer ,then coat of rubberized sound barrier, I think it only comes in black,so I'll after coat it with something that will cover 02C subaru world rally blue paint.
I

Dazza77

What would be best type of paint to cover the black rubberized sound barrier paint,
would a coat of 2k grey primer do, just so the top coat will cover easier or grey etch primer be better.
thanks people for replys
ps
dont try this at home,unless you got 1000 hours spare time LoL

Conor.s1

I would check data sheet on what you are planning on using, you might find that after expoxy primer and the black coating you suggest, paint could simply be applied on top. Failing that, Gravitex stone chip would work (in place of the the black stuff) and that is over paintable / tintable.

I used raptor truck bed liner, but it’s not as flexible and could / may chip on sharp edges if not careful. I coated such areas on mine in clear underseal - Dynax UC by Bilthamber.

rgds, C.