mondeo problems?
23 September 2005, 07:57 AM
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mondeo problems?
Morning,
I currently own a mk2 1.8 petrol mondeo, been noticing last few days that when i go to start it, engine turns over fine but it starts then dies straight away and you have to give it a few revs to get it to start-once its been running a few seconds its ok-it had new spark plugs on it about 6 weeks ago-could it need new HT leads maybe? or is it something else?
mark
I currently own a mk2 1.8 petrol mondeo, been noticing last few days that when i go to start it, engine turns over fine but it starts then dies straight away and you have to give it a few revs to get it to start-once its been running a few seconds its ok-it had new spark plugs on it about 6 weeks ago-could it need new HT leads maybe? or is it something else?
mark
23 September 2005, 09:24 AM
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Does it start OK when warm / hot? If yes, it might not be getting a rich enough mixture from cold. Try unplugging and reconnecting all of the connectors you can find around the MAF and inlet, also on the injectors .... could be a slightly dodgy signal.
The other thing is the lambda sensor connector (follow the wires from the sensor on the exhaust downpipe to the connector), these are a weak spot and get dirty, which can throw out the ECU. All you need to do is unplug and replug it a few times. You might need ramps to get at it, on the Mark 1 cars it's behind the front bumper.
The other thing is the lambda sensor connector (follow the wires from the sensor on the exhaust downpipe to the connector), these are a weak spot and get dirty, which can throw out the ECU. All you need to do is unplug and replug it a few times. You might need ramps to get at it, on the Mark 1 cars it's behind the front bumper.
23 September 2005, 10:56 AM
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You could try the Ford Mondeo forum, very informative, sorted my problem with a Mark 1 and the rubber t piece for the EGR system when H**fords said it was head gasket and water pump and would cost £800 to sort.
23 September 2005, 07:58 PM
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yes put a new thermostat on it now and it warms up lovely
Originally Posted by rossyboy
Not related to this problem, but did you get your thermostat changed when your temp gauge was dodgy? I did mine and thats exactly what the problem was
23 September 2005, 08:02 PM
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will ask thanks
Originally Posted by MoonChild
You could try the Ford Mondeo forum, very informative, sorted my problem with a Mark 1 and the rubber t piece for the EGR system when H**fords said it was head gasket and water pump and would cost £800 to sort.
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23 September 2005, 10:30 PM
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starts fine when hot just does it occasionally when cold-also when its cold it sounds dead rough like valves are knocking etc-but sounds ok warm so is this something to do with same problem?
Originally Posted by brickboy
Does it start OK when warm / hot? If yes, it might not be getting a rich enough mixture from cold. Try unplugging and reconnecting all of the connectors you can find around the MAF and inlet, also on the injectors .... could be a slightly dodgy signal.
The other thing is the lambda sensor connector (follow the wires from the sensor on the exhaust downpipe to the connector), these are a weak spot and get dirty, which can throw out the ECU. All you need to do is unplug and replug it a few times. You might need ramps to get at it, on the Mark 1 cars it's behind the front bumper.
The other thing is the lambda sensor connector (follow the wires from the sensor on the exhaust downpipe to the connector), these are a weak spot and get dirty, which can throw out the ECU. All you need to do is unplug and replug it a few times. You might need ramps to get at it, on the Mark 1 cars it's behind the front bumper.
23 September 2005, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ^OPM^
starts fine when hot just does it occasionally when cold-also when its cold it sounds dead rough like valves are knocking etc-but sounds ok warm so is this something to do with same problem?
Tony
23 September 2005, 10:42 PM
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car has done 72,000 miles , changed the pollen filter last service 6 weeks ago -wasn't leaking but service book sai dto change it-was black lol
Originally Posted by TonyBurns
No this is a common on higher mileage 1.8 ltr zetec engines, though didnt have any probs with my mk1 and did 40k in that from 68-108k, just needed 2 new wheel bearings and a replacement pollen filter which decided to leak into the passenger side (dirt cheap fix) so if you get that problem where you find water on the floor in your passenger side, new rubber seal and filter (you can see it under the plastic cover just above the bonnet).
Tony
Tony
24 September 2005, 07:36 PM
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Tell you what it could be -- the Zetecs are notorious for getting "lawnmower syndrome", where the hydraulic tappets pump up and don't allow the valves to shut properly, so you get compression leak.
Mine used to do it if I ever started the car from cold and ran the engine for only a few seconds (like backing it out the drive then switching off). It would then be a bitch to restart and would run lumpy, like it was on 3 cylinders for about a minute.
Ford specify the Mondeo engines MUST use their own 5W30 grade oil to avoid the tappets pumping up. You can get it dirt cheap from Ford dealers, it's under £20 for 5 litres.
Mine used to do it if I ever started the car from cold and ran the engine for only a few seconds (like backing it out the drive then switching off). It would then be a bitch to restart and would run lumpy, like it was on 3 cylinders for about a minute.
Ford specify the Mondeo engines MUST use their own 5W30 grade oil to avoid the tappets pumping up. You can get it dirt cheap from Ford dealers, it's under £20 for 5 litres.
28 September 2005, 08:19 AM
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that sounds like it-like this morning started car up-pulled off in first gear-car sounded bad like valves were knocking etc-same in 2nd gear just cruised to lights then in 3rd so was ok-sat at lites for about 20 seconds-then when i pulled off in first engine sounded fine and was ok all way home then-had oil changed by a kwik fit type place couple of months ago so not sure what grade oil they put in-but thinking about it i think it is since that oil change that i got this noise on my engine-thanks for help -will do another oil change this weekend-this time will do it myself with ford oil.
Originally Posted by brickboy
Tell you what it could be -- the Zetecs are notorious for getting "lawnmower syndrome", where the hydraulic tappets pump up and don't allow the valves to shut properly, so you get compression leak.
Mine used to do it if I ever started the car from cold and ran the engine for only a few seconds (like backing it out the drive then switching off). It would then be a bitch to restart and would run lumpy, like it was on 3 cylinders for about a minute.
Ford specify the Mondeo engines MUST use their own 5W30 grade oil to avoid the tappets pumping up. You can get it dirt cheap from Ford dealers, it's under £20 for 5 litres.
Mine used to do it if I ever started the car from cold and ran the engine for only a few seconds (like backing it out the drive then switching off). It would then be a bitch to restart and would run lumpy, like it was on 3 cylinders for about a minute.
Ford specify the Mondeo engines MUST use their own 5W30 grade oil to avoid the tappets pumping up. You can get it dirt cheap from Ford dealers, it's under £20 for 5 litres.
28 September 2005, 01:21 PM
#13
Aha!, now you've mentioned the bad cold start runinng as well as the stalling imediately after starting. That helps 
I suggest if you haven't changed the HT leads for a long time, do it. They aren't that good quality on them. And you can get damp in the spark plug recesses which condensates when cold. Obvious signs of them being badly degraded are pitting marks on the base of the spark plugs where the sparks have bypassed the plugs (but if you have new plugs now...they won't be there! ). If the problem has started AFTER changing the spark plugs I'd suggest changing them again for new ones....faulty spark plugs aren't unheard of - BUT do the HT leads first (new plugs can make a lead fault show up ).
The tappet problem is hit and miss, it does get blamed alot when it isn't the case. being a MK2 mondeo this problem should have been rectified, and was much more prominent on the first zetecs seen in the MK1 Mondeos. The obvious sign is 2 or 3 cylinder running until you rev it hard or after 5 mins of running. (having said that...damp ignition components causes the same symptoms ) - The main differentiation between the two is that sometimes with the tappets pumping up is the engine intially starts fine and intitially runs fine on all 4 but then drops to 2 or 3 cylinder within 10-20second of intial starting. (my '92 XR3 used to do it - always in the first 2weeks after I changed the oil during the colder months - quite comical, because I knew it would do it everytime I serviced it in winter! )
Having said that, all data sheets were updated well over 10years ago on the oil recomendations from 10w-40 to 5w-30 (or 0w-40 or 5w-40 )...so it "should" have the correct oil in there already. And been ran on that for most of its life.
I suggest 6month/6k oil changes on these engines anyway if you want to keep them tip-top..the 12month/12k is just far too long IMO.
I suggest if you haven't changed the HT leads for a long time, do it. They aren't that good quality on them. And you can get damp in the spark plug recesses which condensates when cold. Obvious signs of them being badly degraded are pitting marks on the base of the spark plugs where the sparks have bypassed the plugs (but if you have new plugs now...they won't be there!
). If the problem has started AFTER changing the spark plugs I'd suggest changing them again for new ones....faulty spark plugs aren't unheard of - BUT do the HT leads first (new plugs can make a lead fault show up ).The tappet problem is hit and miss, it does get blamed alot when it isn't the case. being a MK2 mondeo this problem should have been rectified, and was much more prominent on the first zetecs seen in the MK1 Mondeos. The obvious sign is 2 or 3 cylinder running until you rev it hard or after 5 mins of running. (having said that...damp ignition components causes the same symptoms
) - The main differentiation between the two is that sometimes with the tappets pumping up is the engine intially starts fine and intitially runs fine on all 4 but then drops to 2 or 3 cylinder within 10-20second of intial starting. (my '92 XR3 used to do it - always in the first 2weeks after I changed the oil during the colder months - quite comical, because I knew it would do it everytime I serviced it in winter! )Having said that, all data sheets were updated well over 10years ago on the oil recomendations from 10w-40 to 5w-30 (or 0w-40 or 5w-40 )...so it "should" have the correct oil in there already. And been ran on that for most of its life.
I suggest 6month/6k oil changes on these engines anyway if you want to keep them tip-top..the 12month/12k is just far too long IMO.
Last edited by ALi-B; 28 September 2005 at 01:41 PM.
28 September 2005, 06:15 PM
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i had the oil done at one of these kwik fit type places and looked at paper work today and oil they put in was 10w40 oil tho...
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Aha!, now you've mentioned the bad cold start runinng as well as the stalling imediately after starting. That helps
I suggest if you haven't changed the HT leads for a long time, do it. They aren't that good quality on them. And you can get damp in the spark plug recesses which condensates when cold. Obvious signs of them being badly degraded are pitting marks on the base of the spark plugs where the sparks have bypassed the plugs (but if you have new plugs now...they won't be there! ). If the problem has started AFTER changing the spark plugs I'd suggest changing them again for new ones....faulty spark plugs aren't unheard of - BUT do the HT leads first (new plugs can make a lead fault show up ).
The tappet problem is hit and miss, it does get blamed alot when it isn't the case. being a MK2 mondeo this problem should have been rectified, and was much more prominent on the first zetecs seen in the MK1 Mondeos. The obvious sign is 2 or 3 cylinder running until you rev it hard or after 5 mins of running. (having said that...damp ignition components causes the same symptoms ) - The main differentiation between the two is that sometimes with the tappets pumping up is the engine intially starts fine and intitially runs fine on all 4 but then drops to 2 or 3 cylinder within 10-20second of intial starting. (my '92 XR3 used to do it - always in the first 2weeks after I changed the oil during the colder months - quite comical, because I knew it would do it everytime I serviced it in winter! )
Having said that, all data sheets were updated well over 10years ago on the oil recomendations from 10w-40 to 5w-30 (or 0w-40 or 5w-40 )...so it "should" have the correct oil in there already. And been ran on that for most of its life.
I suggest 6month/6k oil changes on these engines anyway if you want to keep them tip-top..the 12month/12k is just far too long IMO.
I suggest if you haven't changed the HT leads for a long time, do it. They aren't that good quality on them. And you can get damp in the spark plug recesses which condensates when cold. Obvious signs of them being badly degraded are pitting marks on the base of the spark plugs where the sparks have bypassed the plugs (but if you have new plugs now...they won't be there!
). If the problem has started AFTER changing the spark plugs I'd suggest changing them again for new ones....faulty spark plugs aren't unheard of - BUT do the HT leads first (new plugs can make a lead fault show up ).The tappet problem is hit and miss, it does get blamed alot when it isn't the case. being a MK2 mondeo this problem should have been rectified, and was much more prominent on the first zetecs seen in the MK1 Mondeos. The obvious sign is 2 or 3 cylinder running until you rev it hard or after 5 mins of running. (having said that...damp ignition components causes the same symptoms
) - The main differentiation between the two is that sometimes with the tappets pumping up is the engine intially starts fine and intitially runs fine on all 4 but then drops to 2 or 3 cylinder within 10-20second of intial starting. (my '92 XR3 used to do it - always in the first 2weeks after I changed the oil during the colder months - quite comical, because I knew it would do it everytime I serviced it in winter! )Having said that, all data sheets were updated well over 10years ago on the oil recomendations from 10w-40 to 5w-30 (or 0w-40 or 5w-40 )...so it "should" have the correct oil in there already. And been ran on that for most of its life.
I suggest 6month/6k oil changes on these engines anyway if you want to keep them tip-top..the 12month/12k is just far too long IMO.
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