Jerky Fiesta problem.............
02 September 2005, 09:12 AM
#1
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Jerky Fiesta problem.............
My Lasses Fiesta (1996 1.3) seems to have a problem in which it's a bit Jerky on full throttle in the top two gears and doesn't seem to want to pick up speed. It also has a crap idle intermittently which every now and again, results in it cutting out at junctions 
A lad at work seems to think it's a simple case of cleaning out the idle control valve or sommat. Does that sound about right?
Pic of engine - where should i start?
A lad at work seems to think it's a simple case of cleaning out the idle control valve or sommat. Does that sound about right?
Pic of engine - where should i start?
02 September 2005, 09:42 AM
#3
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I would check all electrics first.
HHT leads, spark plugs and also the coil, as these do break down under load.
Also check the breather hoses as these have a habit of blocking if used mainly
on short journeys.
Hope this has some use to you
Rob
HHT leads, spark plugs and also the coil, as these do break down under load.
Also check the breather hoses as these have a habit of blocking if used mainly
on short journeys.
Hope this has some use to you
Rob
02 September 2005, 10:14 AM
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Clean out the ICV, as the rough running and idling issues are the same as a Ford Ka which has the same engine.
http://www.kaklub.co.uk/index.php?op...d=25&Itemid=49
http://www.kaklub.co.uk/index.php?op...d=25&Itemid=49
02 September 2005, 10:40 AM
#7
Sounds to me you may have a dodgy oxygen sensor that is switching a bit too slowly...Quite easy to check on them - by the time it gets like this it should flag up a fault code (you will NOT get a check engine light...there isn't one! ).
....what I find that can happen, when the sensor cools down it stops switching properly, result is your idle suddenly starts playing up. Then the ECU realises this, and then ignores it and it runs fine again. Same with putting your foot down, it basically does nothing then it's like flicking a switch and off it goes (well as fast a HCs/endura will go
).
ICV will not do anything to full throttle running.
(you will NOT get a check engine light...there isn't one! ).....what I find that can happen, when the sensor cools down it stops switching properly, result is your idle suddenly starts playing up. Then the ECU realises this, and then ignores it and it runs fine again. Same with putting your foot down, it basically does nothing then it's like flicking a switch and off it goes (well as fast a HCs/endura will go
).ICV will not do anything to full throttle running.
Last edited by ALi-B; 02 September 2005 at 10:43 AM.
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02 September 2005, 03:01 PM
#12
Can't answer that without looking....I can't remeber if that one is an EECIV or EECV...the previous you can get fault codes out of - should be a triangluar shaped connector on the passenger inner wing with a red plug in it - can't remeber pins out though (think I posted on here before for an escort...its the same, I'll have a go searching) The latter EECV is ODB and needs a fault code reader.
02 September 2005, 03:22 PM
#13
found it (for EECIV ECU only)
...There should be a triangular connector (sometimes with a red cap in it) on the passenger side inner wing under the bonnet. This is the serial data connector (where a fault code reader plugs into).
Without a FCR, you'll need a test LED light (or probe - but it MUST be LED - a bulb based test light/probe draws too much current and can damage the ECU) or an analogue voltmeter (digital ones don't usually react quick enough)
Looking straight at the connector: The pin on the bottom left is Earth, Top middle is Output, and Bottom right is Input.
To get fault codes, connect the voltmeter or test LED to the output pin on the connector and the other end to the +ve on the battery. Then bridge the Input pin on the connector to the earth pin.
Switch on the ignition, after about 40 odd seconds it will output the fault codes as LED flashes. Quick flashes are the numbers, a 2 second pause is for the next digit. A four second pause is for the next fault code.
A 6seconds+ pause and a single flash is for the end of current codes. After another 6odd+ seconds, fault codes logged in the memory are given.
This is off the top of my head from quite some years back, so it maybe slightly different. I think the 1996 fiesta uses 3digit fault codes
Don't ask what the codes are though...I can't remember them! - Google it!
Without a FCR, you'll need a test LED light (or probe - but it MUST be LED - a bulb based test light/probe draws too much current and can damage the ECU) or an analogue voltmeter (digital ones don't usually react quick enough)
Looking straight at the connector: The pin on the bottom left is Earth, Top middle is Output, and Bottom right is Input.
To get fault codes, connect the voltmeter or test LED to the output pin on the connector and the other end to the +ve on the battery. Then bridge the Input pin on the connector to the earth pin.
Switch on the ignition, after about 40 odd seconds it will output the fault codes as LED flashes. Quick flashes are the numbers, a 2 second pause is for the next digit. A four second pause is for the next fault code.
A 6seconds+ pause and a single flash is for the end of current codes. After another 6odd+ seconds, fault codes logged in the memory are given.
This is off the top of my head from quite some years back, so it maybe slightly different. I think the 1996 fiesta uses 3digit fault codes
Don't ask what the codes are though...I can't remember them! - Google it!
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