300zx buying info
#1
I'm on the lookout for a decent 300zx Twin Turbo and I was hoping someone here might have some tips on what to look for. I've driven one before so i know what they're like but i'm just wondering if there's anything in particular to look out for when shopping for one.
Any particular faults that might crop up that will be costly to repair? Are the auto's much slower than the manuals? I've done some amateur work on 200sx's but are the 300s more complicated to work on? I've had a look at specs for uk and jdm cars and there are a few minor differences. Which one would be the best to go for performance wise?
Any particular faults that might crop up that will be costly to repair? Are the auto's much slower than the manuals? I've done some amateur work on 200sx's but are the 300s more complicated to work on? I've had a look at specs for uk and jdm cars and there are a few minor differences. Which one would be the best to go for performance wise?
#3
Hi Marty,
I've had a 300 for nearly 5 years now and they're fantastic! Mine's an auto but the manuals are listed to return the same figures. They will almost certainly pick up quicker from standing but then lose their advantage in gear changing. The auto box is even great on track, especially in sport setting (Jap spec only)
Make sure you check for turbo smoke as blown turbo's apparently cost around £1500 to fix (you have to take the engine out!).
They do chew brakes, but an upgrade to AP racing 6 pots works miracles ! ;-) Other than that I've not had much trouble in 50k miles of adrenaline rush.
You might want to change the exhaust and remove the cats as soon as you afford it though as you'll get about 30-35 bhp gain (due to them being restricted to just 280bhp by OE exhausts being REALLY restrictive! You'll find that most have had aftermarket exhausts fitted already ! If not then go for Mongoose (see Luke, below!)
There are numerous differences between the UK and Jap versions but I've not found anything to cost much different. Nissan dealers happily supply Jap parts, although you'll often have to supply the part numbers yourself as they mostly don't have the Jap fiches. If you get any problems along those lines just contact Luke Borg at Zcentre.co.uk. He runs the 300ZX part of the Z owners club and he's a fount of knowledge, and has a Jap fiche as well as keeping many parts in stock, both new and used.
You might also want to look on Z32.org (Z32 is the code number for the 300zx twin turbo) as they have lots of useful forums, as does zclub.net.
If you've got any other questions then just give me a shout !
Good luck !
I've had a 300 for nearly 5 years now and they're fantastic! Mine's an auto but the manuals are listed to return the same figures. They will almost certainly pick up quicker from standing but then lose their advantage in gear changing. The auto box is even great on track, especially in sport setting (Jap spec only)
Make sure you check for turbo smoke as blown turbo's apparently cost around £1500 to fix (you have to take the engine out!).
They do chew brakes, but an upgrade to AP racing 6 pots works miracles ! ;-) Other than that I've not had much trouble in 50k miles of adrenaline rush.
You might want to change the exhaust and remove the cats as soon as you afford it though as you'll get about 30-35 bhp gain (due to them being restricted to just 280bhp by OE exhausts being REALLY restrictive! You'll find that most have had aftermarket exhausts fitted already ! If not then go for Mongoose (see Luke, below!)
There are numerous differences between the UK and Jap versions but I've not found anything to cost much different. Nissan dealers happily supply Jap parts, although you'll often have to supply the part numbers yourself as they mostly don't have the Jap fiches. If you get any problems along those lines just contact Luke Borg at Zcentre.co.uk. He runs the 300ZX part of the Z owners club and he's a fount of knowledge, and has a Jap fiche as well as keeping many parts in stock, both new and used.
You might also want to look on Z32.org (Z32 is the code number for the 300zx twin turbo) as they have lots of useful forums, as does zclub.net.
If you've got any other questions then just give me a shout !
Good luck !
#4
Cheers Konrad,
So you reckon the Jap spec one is the one to go for? I've been trying to decide whether to get an auto or hold out until i can find a decent manual but from what i've read the auto's aren't too bad and there's more of them around to choose from. Seems for the same money i can get a much lower mileage import compared to the UK cars.
Chris,
I already caught up with mice_elf on a 300ZX BBS
So you reckon the Jap spec one is the one to go for? I've been trying to decide whether to get an auto or hold out until i can find a decent manual but from what i've read the auto's aren't too bad and there's more of them around to choose from. Seems for the same money i can get a much lower mileage import compared to the UK cars.
Chris,
I already caught up with mice_elf on a 300ZX BBS
#5
Yeah, the imports usually are much lower mileage (mine was), but I reckon it's worth the dosh to get a mechanic to look it over & verify the mileage.
You do get extra spec on the Jap ones, like wing mirrors that fold in electrically, switchable gearbox etc and don't get the ugly headlight washers.
Get a post 92 model if you can 'cause they get an electric passenger seat too !
You do get extra spec on the Jap ones, like wing mirrors that fold in electrically, switchable gearbox etc and don't get the ugly headlight washers.
Get a post 92 model if you can 'cause they get an electric passenger seat too !
#6
OK..
Jap Spec generally have lower mileage and better body work BUT they also don't have (in the main) service history documentation.
UK Spec come with the service history and TURBOS!!!
Jap Spec don't always come with those - also there are 2 types - the SWB and LWB. SWB is always an import as they didn't get made in this country.
Autos are slightly slower on spool up, but better through gear change, although the manual is slightly faster over 1/4 mile and 0-60 times.
When you go to check a Zed, run her for a while and then accelerate while sgtanding and check to see for smoke coming out of the exhausts. White is condensation and nothing really to be concerned about, black is oil though, which is a problem as it could be that your seals have gone.
Manuals tend to chew through gear boxes and clutches but Autos need a better oil cooler as the one with which they are fitted is not brilliant.
What else...ok - Jap Spec cars are limited when they come over so need to have that removed. They also have an annoying beep when you go over 70mph (it can be taken away.)
If you need more info, womble over to the Zed forum and ask questions there.
Alternatively, just shout and I'll try to assist. I've owned my UK 2+2 TT for 4 and a half years now.
Jap Spec generally have lower mileage and better body work BUT they also don't have (in the main) service history documentation.
UK Spec come with the service history and TURBOS!!!
Jap Spec don't always come with those - also there are 2 types - the SWB and LWB. SWB is always an import as they didn't get made in this country.
Autos are slightly slower on spool up, but better through gear change, although the manual is slightly faster over 1/4 mile and 0-60 times.
When you go to check a Zed, run her for a while and then accelerate while sgtanding and check to see for smoke coming out of the exhausts. White is condensation and nothing really to be concerned about, black is oil though, which is a problem as it could be that your seals have gone.
Manuals tend to chew through gear boxes and clutches but Autos need a better oil cooler as the one with which they are fitted is not brilliant.
What else...ok - Jap Spec cars are limited when they come over so need to have that removed. They also have an annoying beep when you go over 70mph (it can be taken away.)
If you need more info, womble over to the Zed forum and ask questions there.
Alternatively, just shout and I'll try to assist. I've owned my UK 2+2 TT for 4 and a half years now.
#7
IMHO try to hold out for a UK Spec manual. I wouldn't touch a grey import personally. There's arguments for and against for both, though. Don't forget that with an import it will need to be reset to MPH and have fogs fitted etc.
One other thing - insurance for an imported NA is usually as expensive as or more expensive than a UK TT.
One other thing - insurance for an imported NA is usually as expensive as or more expensive than a UK TT.
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#9
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I second that. As long as you do your homework you can find a real bargain with all the extras and more.
I'd suggest http://www.neweraimports.com/stock.htm
Miguel (the fella at the Japanese end of Newera is very hard working and try to match all customers requirements. Give him a call. Worth it just for the chat....
I'd suggest http://www.neweraimports.com/stock.htm
Miguel (the fella at the Japanese end of Newera is very hard working and try to match all customers requirements. Give him a call. Worth it just for the chat....
#10
Personally (the key word there, I feel ) I wouldn't touch a grey. There are others that will only look at greys. There are arguments for and against both.
Personal preference at the end of the day.
It will also depend on how long you wish to wait. J-Specs are easier to come by in that respect. A decent UK Spec 2+2 TT is getting to be as rare as hen's teeth.
Personal preference at the end of the day.
It will also depend on how long you wish to wait. J-Specs are easier to come by in that respect. A decent UK Spec 2+2 TT is getting to be as rare as hen's teeth.
#11
I've been offered an stock import G-plate manual TT with 50k miles on the clock and 12 months warranty in exchange for my scoob.
I haven't seen it yet but it's supposed to be mint condition but with no jap history. The advertised price is 5k for the car. My scoob isn't worth much more (L-plate WRX wagon with 70k miles on the clock and a few bumps and scrapes).
If the Z is mint does this sound like a good deal?
I haven't seen it yet but it's supposed to be mint condition but with no jap history. The advertised price is 5k for the car. My scoob isn't worth much more (L-plate WRX wagon with 70k miles on the clock and a few bumps and scrapes).
If the Z is mint does this sound like a good deal?
#12
You do see them for less, but if it's mint then you'll not beat it by much.
See if you can get hold of a November copy of Japanese Performance magazine - they've got a buyers guide for the 300 !
See if you can get hold of a November copy of Japanese Performance magazine - they've got a buyers guide for the 300 !
#13
Just a thought though Marty.... it'll be an interesting time of year to jump from a 4WD Scoob to a RWD Z. They can be lots of fun in the wet !!
You Scooby guys do like sideways action though eh ?
You Scooby guys do like sideways action though eh ?
#14
I wouldn't quite class myself as a scoob guy ... only had it for a few months. I'm more a Nissan guy who got sucked in by the scoobs reputation. Got rid of my 200sx and got the scoob but i'm seriously regretting it now. RWD Nissans are much more fun
#16
Marty - IF it's in mint condition, then it's not a bad deal. Make sure you check EVERYthing, though...
Is it a Turbo? Check for smoke coming out of the exhausts...look under the car for drips and leaks...take her out for a blast and see how she handles, whether there's any lag on the exhausts or a stiff clutch (when it should be standard) etc....
Failing that, take someone from the Zed-forum with you to look over the car.
Hope it's a good one.
Is it a Turbo? Check for smoke coming out of the exhausts...look under the car for drips and leaks...take her out for a blast and see how she handles, whether there's any lag on the exhausts or a stiff clutch (when it should be standard) etc....
Failing that, take someone from the Zed-forum with you to look over the car.
Hope it's a good one.
#17
Ah yes...I see "manual TT" in the option there!
Should you buy the car, first thing to do is change the camblet and the oil... The person who had mine before me forgot to do the former and blew the engine...
Should you buy the car, first thing to do is change the camblet and the oil... The person who had mine before me forgot to do the former and blew the engine...
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