MTB - tubeless tyres
#1
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MTB - tubeless tyres
Hey
So I called in at the bike shop yesterday as I was passing...managed to come out with two tyres, two valves, two rim tapes and some puncture gunk!
Is there anything I need to watch for when I fit them? I've never used tubeless before, never used the gunk either!
The guy was saying that you can run them at much lower pressures for increased grip. Does that not increase drag though? I did read something about them rolling better as they can absorb bumps better.
Your thoughts
So I called in at the bike shop yesterday as I was passing...managed to come out with two tyres, two valves, two rim tapes and some puncture gunk!
Is there anything I need to watch for when I fit them? I've never used tubeless before, never used the gunk either!
The guy was saying that you can run them at much lower pressures for increased grip. Does that not increase drag though? I did read something about them rolling better as they can absorb bumps better.
Your thoughts
#2
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Have them on the Scapel but I must confess I'm not that keen. Didn't notice a lot of difference in ride, control etc.
A good thing is that because there's no tube to be ripped apart, they tend not to go flat on the trail. The flipside is that you won't notice a slow leak and you'll find the tyre is flat when you take the bike our the shed the next morning! Ended up just stcking tubes in them and using them as std tyres, which you can do (they came with the bike)! Apparently squezzy creates a better seal.
Andy TJ
A good thing is that because there's no tube to be ripped apart, they tend not to go flat on the trail. The flipside is that you won't notice a slow leak and you'll find the tyre is flat when you take the bike our the shed the next morning! Ended up just stcking tubes in them and using them as std tyres, which you can do (they came with the bike)! Apparently squezzy creates a better seal.
Andy TJ
#3
Also known as daz
I plan on going this route when i order me up a new set of wheels.
The best way is a ust tyre on a ust rim, preferably with sealant inside for the obvious puncture protection.
If done right it's meant to be great, i always pick up thorn punctures so im willing to give it a shot, if it doesn't work i can always revert back to tubed.
Anyway here's a video that explains how to fit it.
YouTube - NoTubes Tubeless-Kit Installation
The best way is a ust tyre on a ust rim, preferably with sealant inside for the obvious puncture protection.
If done right it's meant to be great, i always pick up thorn punctures so im willing to give it a shot, if it doesn't work i can always revert back to tubed.
Anyway here's a video that explains how to fit it.
YouTube - NoTubes Tubeless-Kit Installation
#4
I have run tubeless for abot 3 years now and hardly get any punctures compare to my tubed mates. I have tubeless ready wheels (Bontrager Rhythms) which are really easy to get tyres on. I'm guessing you have gone for the Stans kit. When you are putting them on, turn the wheel before you start to pump them up to help with sealing around the rims, then pump like hell with a track pump, you probably won't manage it with a frame pump.
I tend to run mine at about 30-35lbs but pump them up to about 50-60 if its bone dry or am on the road a lot. They are definately faster than tubed, the bike just feels different too, less rotating weight...
I pop one side of the tube off every few months and top up the fluid, the back goes through it quicker as that where the weight is, you will get punctures, you usually just hear a hissing sound, just keep going and it usually heals within a few rotations. I carry a tube of superglue, if you get a biggie you can put a drop in the hole, leave for a few seconds and the fluid will do the rest. I carry a spare tube, I did land on a sharp flint on a drop while gong flat out, it pu a half inch hole in the tyre, but with a bit of old toothpaste tube and an inner tube, completed the ride.
Have fun
I tend to run mine at about 30-35lbs but pump them up to about 50-60 if its bone dry or am on the road a lot. They are definately faster than tubed, the bike just feels different too, less rotating weight...
I pop one side of the tube off every few months and top up the fluid, the back goes through it quicker as that where the weight is, you will get punctures, you usually just hear a hissing sound, just keep going and it usually heals within a few rotations. I carry a tube of superglue, if you get a biggie you can put a drop in the hole, leave for a few seconds and the fluid will do the rest. I carry a spare tube, I did land on a sharp flint on a drop while gong flat out, it pu a half inch hole in the tyre, but with a bit of old toothpaste tube and an inner tube, completed the ride.
Have fun
#5
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I've got Bontrager rims but was told I need a different rim tape, to stop leaks down the spoke holes I guess. I've also got the gunk to put in there too.
I was gonna put them on today and go for a ride later but my tight fisted side has come out, I want some more life out of my Cinders first! To be fair, I've altered the pressure in my rear shocker so I want to see what that does before changing anything else.
I was getting naffed off with adjusting suspension, tyre pressures and what have you. I almost got to thinking of going back to a hardtail...and then I rode my hardtail earlier, my god it's shonky!
I was gonna put them on today and go for a ride later but my tight fisted side has come out, I want some more life out of my Cinders first! To be fair, I've altered the pressure in my rear shocker so I want to see what that does before changing anything else.
I was getting naffed off with adjusting suspension, tyre pressures and what have you. I almost got to thinking of going back to a hardtail...and then I rode my hardtail earlier, my god it's shonky!
#6
load of rubbish if you ask me-which you kinda did!
it will seal if a thorn pierces but if you are on the road/trail at all and get a small splice then it is useless.
you will need to empty and retop up the sealant every 8-10 weeks or so as it will 'set' inside the tyre so does work out quite expensive.
cant understand why people say it helps with acceleration due to reduced weight cos with the rim tape and 300ml of sealant in each tyre it works out heavier.
also, you will need a special sealed air valve which will need to be tightened with a pair of pliers to ensure that it doesnt leak, therefore if you get an unrepairable slice and wish to insert a tube which you will need a pair of pliers to remove which is more clutter to carry around.
in conclusion of this 'quick reply' ust is cr@p cr@p cr@p
cheers
it will seal if a thorn pierces but if you are on the road/trail at all and get a small splice then it is useless.
you will need to empty and retop up the sealant every 8-10 weeks or so as it will 'set' inside the tyre so does work out quite expensive.
cant understand why people say it helps with acceleration due to reduced weight cos with the rim tape and 300ml of sealant in each tyre it works out heavier.
also, you will need a special sealed air valve which will need to be tightened with a pair of pliers to ensure that it doesnt leak, therefore if you get an unrepairable slice and wish to insert a tube which you will need a pair of pliers to remove which is more clutter to carry around.
in conclusion of this 'quick reply' ust is cr@p cr@p cr@p
cheers
#7
not keen on tubeless, pain in the *** if u have a puncture out on the trails, i just have cinders fitted and use thick downhill tubes and very rarely have punctures
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#8
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Well, I've got all the stuff so I'll give it a go...can always just stick a tube in if needs be.
(finally got the suspension set up nicely!! )
(finally got the suspension set up nicely!! )
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