Ok new fish tank .. I think I'm doing it right this time
#1
Ok new fish tank .. I think I'm doing it right this time
OK.. got the tank, cleaned it, cleaned the new grave and added it.
Took one of the filters from the old tank and put it in. Also got one of those bubble blowing things in the middle behind a rock thing.
Added the water and added Nitrate minues and Stress coat in small amounts. In line with instructions on bottles.
Then turned on heater and filter and left for 48 hours.
Water looks very clear.. have just added three smaller "test" fishies... very brave there are too and the water temp is just under 25 ..
Have I done it right this time ?
Took one of the filters from the old tank and put it in. Also got one of those bubble blowing things in the middle behind a rock thing.
Added the water and added Nitrate minues and Stress coat in small amounts. In line with instructions on bottles.
Then turned on heater and filter and left for 48 hours.
Water looks very clear.. have just added three smaller "test" fishies... very brave there are too and the water temp is just under 25 ..
Have I done it right this time ?
#3
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Not going to say you have done it wrong only that my local fish shop has always recommended leaving a new tank standing for at least 7 days before adding any starter fish. I wouldn't add any more food for a few days and leave the water cycle to kick off with the fish and the food that is currently in there. Do water tests every 2-3 days to check for amonia levels as well as ph/kh stability. The ammonia is the most important, once that is right down then you can start worrying about the nitrate and nitrite levels.
Oh and what are your 'test' fishies? White Clouds and Zebra Danios are two of the more hardy ones and i've used them and they lived longer than some of the fish I put in later.
Probably the most important thing is to take it slowly and don't hurry it along adding more fish etc too quickly.
Oh and what are your 'test' fishies? White Clouds and Zebra Danios are two of the more hardy ones and i've used them and they lived longer than some of the fish I put in later.
Probably the most important thing is to take it slowly and don't hurry it along adding more fish etc too quickly.
Last edited by Bravo2zero_sps; 21 April 2009 at 02:32 PM.
#5
Not going to say you have done it wrong only that my local fish shop has always recommended leaving a new tank standing for at least 7 days before adding any starter fish. I wouldn't add any more food for a few days and leave the water cycle to kick off with the fish and the food that is currently in there. Do water tests every 2-3 days to check for amonia levels as well as ph/kh stability. The ammonia is the most important, once that is right down then you can start worrying about the nitrate and nitrite levels.
Oh and what are your 'test' fishies? White Clouds and Zebra Danios are two of the more hardy ones and i've used them and they lived longer than some of the fish I put in later.
Probably the most important thing is to take it slowly and don't hurry it along adding more fish etc too quickly.
Oh and what are your 'test' fishies? White Clouds and Zebra Danios are two of the more hardy ones and i've used them and they lived longer than some of the fish I put in later.
Probably the most important thing is to take it slowly and don't hurry it along adding more fish etc too quickly.
Neons .. or whatever they're called ..
#7
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do a search for fish less cycles fella, takes more then 48hrs i promise, and get a test kit so you can tell when when ur filter is using the ammonia up, u can buy a few different filter feeder/starts, I used a bio mature but you can buy household ammonia and add a small amount to see if ur filter is working correctly.
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#11
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It takes months to get the bacterial cycle up to scratch, but with careful testing and treatment where necessary you should be fine. Nutrafin cycle or similar helps things along nicely!! Keep and eye on PH as well as ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. Well worth investing in a test kit (eBay are cheap) Only add 2 fish at a time and NEVER leave food to sit on the bottom of the tank, it decomposes and adds to the ammonia levels which can then be fatal to any fish you have in the tank.
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Should be fine, best of luck.
When we have started from scratch we have added some Aquafresh to knock the tap chlorine on the head and some Cycle which gives the bacteria cycle a head start. Probably a bit ott tbh. Patience is the thing
Not sure that fish will be cheered up by seeing new grave............
dl
When we have started from scratch we have added some Aquafresh to knock the tap chlorine on the head and some Cycle which gives the bacteria cycle a head start. Probably a bit ott tbh. Patience is the thing
Not sure that fish will be cheered up by seeing new grave............
dl
#15
I'm about to set one up - as a hospital tank for a large red finned botia that is suffering from something else eating his fins! I've had him and his mate for about 10 years now. He's about 8 inches long but is very dozy as he sits behind a rock unless there's food to be had and clearly doesn't notice he's being eaten - in a 4 ft tank of cichlids, botias (various species) and a plec. I suspect a striated botia (pakistani loach) is the culprit but, rather than remove likely nibblers and see if he improves, figure he'd be better taken out of the picture for a while to sort him out. That's if I can catch the bugger.....
I shall do a water change on the main tank to use existing water to fill a 3 foot tank, and will drop some of the filter segments from the fluval on that tank into the fluval for the 3 foot tank - i.e. I can cheat and set it up already 'established'. I did similar when we've moevd in the past - even to the point about removal men moaning that they'd never seen anyone move water before (I took established water and wet filter media in water butts).
Agree with the posters above for a new tank - leave as long as possible (>1 week) and stick either very hardy fish in (which neon tetras aren't!) or ones you don't care about. Then don't get carried away - just 2-3 small fish for a month or so before very slowly adding others. Preferably seed the water with someone else's filter media (e.g. rinse the foam from their filter in the tank, run your fliter on an established tank for a few days before transferring etc as the right bacteria are key to managing nitrogen cycles etc). As an aside, I've never used testing kits, just common sense and go slowly. I don't water change as much as I should (once every couple of months generally - BUT fill large trugs and let the water stand for at least 24 hours first - letting chlorine evaporate off and the water come up to room temperature before using a pond pump to move the water around) but deliberately over-aerate and over filter with large external filters.
Good luck - and GO SLOWLY!
Gordo
I shall do a water change on the main tank to use existing water to fill a 3 foot tank, and will drop some of the filter segments from the fluval on that tank into the fluval for the 3 foot tank - i.e. I can cheat and set it up already 'established'. I did similar when we've moevd in the past - even to the point about removal men moaning that they'd never seen anyone move water before (I took established water and wet filter media in water butts).
Agree with the posters above for a new tank - leave as long as possible (>1 week) and stick either very hardy fish in (which neon tetras aren't!) or ones you don't care about. Then don't get carried away - just 2-3 small fish for a month or so before very slowly adding others. Preferably seed the water with someone else's filter media (e.g. rinse the foam from their filter in the tank, run your fliter on an established tank for a few days before transferring etc as the right bacteria are key to managing nitrogen cycles etc). As an aside, I've never used testing kits, just common sense and go slowly. I don't water change as much as I should (once every couple of months generally - BUT fill large trugs and let the water stand for at least 24 hours first - letting chlorine evaporate off and the water come up to room temperature before using a pond pump to move the water around) but deliberately over-aerate and over filter with large external filters.
Good luck - and GO SLOWLY!
Gordo
Last edited by Gordo; 22 April 2009 at 10:16 AM.
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