de bong

Ok here goes....I'm "trying" to fit oil pressure,oil temp and boost ,all auto-gauges(stealth 2) electricial on my classic '99.

First tried the the oil pressure...on the back of the gauge are black,red and orange leads. Black being ground I wired directly to the negative of the battery(for a quick test before I go any further) and red to the positive on the battery, then replaced the pressure switch with a braided hose connector(purchased from lma) that fit perfectly and also allows me to still connect the orignal pressue switch and finally I connected the sender(wired directly to the orange leads to back of gauge) to the brass connection thats fitted to the orignal position for the pressure switch by the alternator. Started her up and the needle goes all the way up to the max reading and stays there. For testing purposes I then wired the ground to the chassis and the positive to the ignition and there was no difference. I even disconnected the orange cable going to the sender and still got a max reading on the gauge ...Can anyone tell me where I might be going wrong as this is really beginning to bust my *****....

Since I was getting no joy with the oil pressure I tried wiring the boost and this proved to be just as frustrating...This gauge comes with a boost sensor with red(+),white(boost sensor) and black(-) leads as well as the back of the gauge itself. Also on the the boost sensor is a fitting for the 3mm tubing to I presume was to be fitted to the blanked off fitting just right of the other standard boost tubing. Again started her up and I was getting a reading of -.5 bar at idle. If I rev her the reading goes up slightly but never into positive figures. Am I correct to presume the gauge should be reading 0 bar at idle?

An finally I got the oil temp sensor for the no.3 cycliner but could not find it. Do I have to take off the intercooler to find it?Can someone direct me to where I could find it?

Thanks in advance for any help or even just getting through my long winded thread but would really like to do this myself if possible.

thanks

rossi_classicwrx

Hi mate try running a seperate earth to the temperature sender or oil pressure sender as well. Remember that scoobs run high oil pressure anyway so it will be close to the top if not over it when you first start it.
Also boost gauges will read 0 if you have the ignition on but not start the car.. But when idleing they do read in the negative. I don't know the reason for this but thats what it does on mine.
I didn't use the no 3 bung (i used a different one by accident) but as far as im aware it can be done with the intercooler on. I think its slightly towards the turbo at the back (looking from the side of the intercooler) i may be wrong on the location of that but hopefully someone will be able to point it out if i am.
Hope this helps

monkeyboy840

try the below i'm sure it will help you.

a guide to fitting the gauges ie locations


Chiark: Scooby Gauges the cheap-ish way

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

I fitting some stealth gauges at the mo, and both the oil pressure and temp have green wires on mine for connecting to the senders. ALthough mine's a bugeye I expect the differences to be minimal.

I don't have the pressure sender connected yet, and mine goes to the endstop. I expect that is due to the signal wire not being connected to anything until I get the sender finally fitted.

For the temp, you can remove the plug with a long bar without removing the intercooler, but you need to take the intercooler off to get the sender in unless you've got really small hands.

de bong

cool I will try a seperate earth to the senders because the I dont think my oil pressure gauge should be reading over 150psi. What is the average pressure?

with regard to the boost gauge ,will this only read into positive figures until the car is moving and under load/pressure?Again what would/should the average readings be?

thanks

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Mine reads -0.5 bar at idle and will go as low as -0.7 bar if i'm gearing down, but at the mo max boost I'm getting is about 0.5bar. I'm waiting for my PSI3 so I can do a proper ECU reset and see if it's in limp home mode. From what I've read I would expect anywhere between 0.9 and 1.1 bar for my newage.

Not sure about the oil pressure, a search may help, that's how I found my oil temp was right. Feedback says between 90 and 100 degress and mine runs at 95/96

de bong

right finally installed successfully and they look the part

I have to say I would never do this again...way too much hassle.
In the end i had to earth the oil pressure sender as well even though this was nowhere in the instructions.

so i am now getting about 40 psi oil pressure @ idle and up to 95 while driving. Oil temp peaks @ about 90 degrees and my boost max's out at about +0.5 bar. Does this sound correct?

thanks again for all the advice...

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

I've taken a couple of days off to get mine finished, have finally decided that I can finish it with the alternator in0situ.

Oil temp sounds good, my gut feeling is the oil pressure is okay but someone here may be able to give us a better idea.

Boost sounds a little low. All the searchs I did stated that 1/2 bar could be limp home mode. My searchs showed that the newage should be 0.9-1.1 bar and the iirc the classics are slightly less.

Have to admit, my stealth gauges do look good even though they are not fully plumbed in yet

Tissy

JonMc - I did a PDF 'Installation Guide' for the AutoGauges i have fitted which may assist you. I too have them fitted without removal of the alternator. They work really well, but as metioned i also grounded (earthed) the can of the Oil pressure sender unit as it was not grounded properly using the suggested method.

I can send it to you if thats of any help, it has a few pictures also.

Regards,

Steve

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Thanks for the offer, there's also a very good PDF on the PSI3 website which I used and it was a great excuse to the missus for buying a couple of new tools such as stubby spanners, new knuckle joints and some extension bars but all to no avail.

If you could send your's I'll see what I can try differently. You can mail it to jonmcm.t21@btinternet.com.

I've heard lots of problems from people not grounding the sender so I was planning to use a ring connector between the sender and the flexi-hose. I presume that using PTFE tape compromises the grounding when you screw it all together.

Tissy

email sent !

I don't think any PTFE tape was used on mine, but for some reason the connectory still wasn't grounded properly. I soldered a wire actually to the outer can and grounded this on the vehicles body.

I have also sent an email to Nick at Auto Gauge Place suggesting he contacts the manufacturer to at least include a lug on the side of the body should other experience the same problems.

Regards,

Steve

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Got the email

You're not the first person who's soldered an earth lead onto the sender according to the searches I did before I started fitting my gauges. I've grounded my temp switch to the earth point above the airbox so I'll probably use the same point for the pressure switch.

Tissy

Just received an email back about the pressure switches and grounding issues, looks like the problem has been solved at manufacture

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Maybe he'll send one out to everyone who has an old switch from him