Reef

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

Can I get some recommendations for a 10in sub?

This is the spec on the one I have at the moment which is now broken.

Total Frequency Response 20-300hz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohm
Efficiency 85 dB
Power Handling
Continuous 400 watts
Peak 800 watts

These numbers mean nothing to me

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

So you want one that will do 400 rms continuous power which then will be same power as yours suited to your amp. What rms power is the amp you are running?

Reef

iTrader: (2)

Hey,

Thanks for the quick reply.

I honestly have no idea, the above figures came from the website that made the sub.

mattygg

Reef,

Do you have any details of the amp which you are using, because, as a rule, you try and buy a sub that matches the same power/rms/ohm that the amp is putting out.

If you dont have the manual then just a model number may do, as we could google it and try to get info.

Reef

iTrader: (2)

I'll have a look today.

I was looking to match the old sub as I guessed that would have been the same power a the amp.

Thanks for the reply.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Sorry missed reply on this thread, yes would be good if you could find out details from your amp, I.e make model etc, so we can advise of a sub that will match power.
Putting a overpowered sub on a amp will not perform to its capabilities. A underpowered sub will probably start farting and blow eventually.

Reef

iTrader: (2)

No need to say sorry mate, your helping me

Ok, it a Kenwood KAC-PS541. Maximum power 960w

I've found an online manual here
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...113KACX541.PDF

What do I need to know to make a choice?

Thanks

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Right it's 180w rms at 12v and 240w rms at 14.4v both bridged into two channels

Are you using amp for any other speakers or just sub?

I would get a 250-300max rms sub to fit onto that without going too much out and bit of leveridge.
You will need to bridge it to get the best out of sub and to achive them figures otherwise it will be lower wattage.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

How did your sub break? As them figure shouldn't of made it break unless wired up wrong.

Reef

iTrader: (2)

Please excuse my ignorance but there are 14 different cables coming out of the amp so I assume its running the speakers as well.

Does it matter what make I go for?

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Make is entirely upto you, but I would go for a good make, just for the sound quality.

On the manual that you posted, look at page 8 and that will give you diagram, or if your not fussed then put it on to where it was on before, but I think it maybe set up wrong, but if it's ok with you then that's all that matters.

How did you bugger the old sub?

Reef

iTrader: (2)

Thanks,

The rubbers became unstuck and it stopped giving a clear sound.

On page 8 mine looks like the 2 channel + subwoofer diagram.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Cool, make sure it's bridged on channel b as diagram to get full potential out of sub

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Make sure you buy a 4ohm 250-300w rms sub, there's lots to choose from.

Reef

iTrader: (2)

This one fits the bill... I think
http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/prod...12_p-27329.htm
Seems a bit cheap??

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Yeah that's ok, prices are quite cheap if it's without box, you can pick up rockfordfostgate for £70 ish

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Look on caraudiosecurity.com it's cheaper

Reef

iTrader: (2)

This looks like the kiddie

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro..._id/15567.html

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Oh yes the punch series, that's a daddy

Reef

iTrader: (2)

Just bought one of those.

I owe you a pint, let me know you Email and I'll paypal you a few quid for a drink on me

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Don't be silly, it's fine, happy to help

As long as you don't park in McDonald's blaring it out

Reef

iTrader: (2)

LOL, no worries on that front.

Thanks again mate.