Newbie ICE Questions...
08 July 2001, 09:19 PM
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Right ho - I picked up my MY99 Scooby last Thursday. At the mo, it's got the standard Subaru / Philips cassette head unit and 6 disc changer under the pax seat.
Sitting in my cupboard, I've got an Alpine 7562 head unit (cassette again) and an S614 changer.
Is it worth the effort in pulling out the Philips stuff and putting in the Alpine? I'd probably stick with the 7562 head for the time being but may opt for a CD or MD upgrade at some point. I miss some of things provided by Ai-Net like naming CDs (I must get out more
)
Next question...
The front speakers seem pretty naff - they weren't too happy with Cosmic Gate's album at 15 on the volume scale.
What sort of budget is it worth starting at to improve things? For instance, would spending 50 to 75 quid be a waste of money (ie what you are buying wouldn't be much better than stuff in there now)?
TIA,
ChrisB.
Sitting in my cupboard, I've got an Alpine 7562 head unit (cassette again) and an S614 changer.
Is it worth the effort in pulling out the Philips stuff and putting in the Alpine? I'd probably stick with the 7562 head for the time being but may opt for a CD or MD upgrade at some point. I miss some of things provided by Ai-Net like naming CDs (I must get out more
)Next question...
The front speakers seem pretty naff - they weren't too happy with Cosmic Gate's album at 15 on the volume scale.
What sort of budget is it worth starting at to improve things? For instance, would spending 50 to 75 quid be a waste of money (ie what you are buying wouldn't be much better than stuff in there now)?
TIA,
ChrisB.
09 July 2001, 08:30 AM
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Yes, and around 100 quid respectively - though 50-70 quid will get you a decent set too
The standard stuff is, erm, what's the word I'm looking for... ****e?
Your alpine will be infinitely better. Drop it in ASAP.
For speakers, many people on here like the Infinity 605CS for a straight drop-in replacement. Failing that, JBL are quite common and easy to fit, and there's many different brands out there. General advice would be to go for a manufacturer who specialises in speakers rather than one of the largest names.
Spend the money on the fronts, leave the rears alone, and you'll be on the route to sonic nirvana. (Well, in the car at least)
The standard stuff is, erm, what's the word I'm looking for... ****e?
Your alpine will be infinitely better. Drop it in ASAP.
For speakers, many people on here like the Infinity 605CS for a straight drop-in replacement. Failing that, JBL are quite common and easy to fit, and there's many different brands out there. General advice would be to go for a manufacturer who specialises in speakers rather than one of the largest names.
Spend the money on the fronts, leave the rears alone, and you'll be on the route to sonic nirvana. (Well, in the car at least)
09 July 2001, 09:28 AM
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Cheers Chiark.
Drop in replacement sounds nice to me - I'm about as knowledgable and creative as an armadillo when it comes to these things.
I found some excellent posts in here about dismantling the doors. I'll print them off and give them to my dad.
ChrisB.
Drop in replacement sounds nice to me - I'm about as knowledgable and creative as an armadillo when it comes to these things.
I found some excellent posts in here about dismantling the doors. I'll print them off and give them to my dad.
ChrisB.
09 July 2001, 11:55 AM
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Chris,
I was a complete novice myself, I put the infinitys in myself, with alot of email support and reading info on here. They are dead easy to do. Cost £120ish
Also got 2nd hand head unit, much better.
Then the piece d'resistance was adding an amp this weekend, £139 + P&P, the difference is stunning, much cleaner sound, hearing things on my CDs I've never heard before!!
cheers,
greg
I was a complete novice myself, I put the infinitys in myself, with alot of email support and reading info on here. They are dead easy to do. Cost £120ish
Also got 2nd hand head unit, much better.
Then the piece d'resistance was adding an amp this weekend, £139 + P&P, the difference is stunning, much cleaner sound, hearing things on my CDs I've never heard before!!
cheers,
greg
09 July 2001, 03:41 PM
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Hi Greg,
I might give it a go myself then in a few weeks (Northern Camping Trip this weekend )
Was that £120 for the pair of fronts or each?
I just hope you don't have to take the pax seat out to pull the Philips changer out!
Cheers,
ChrisB.
I might give it a go myself then in a few weeks (Northern Camping Trip this weekend
)Was that £120 for the pair of fronts or each?
I just hope you don't have to take the pax seat out to pull the Philips changer out!
Cheers,
ChrisB.
09 July 2001, 06:51 PM
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£120 the pair, probably get them cheaper if you shop around.
nope, didn't have to remove the seat to remove the phillips cd-changer, just tie some string to it when you pull it out the gap, so you can pull the new lead back there!
From the near side passenger door I could lever the seat so I could see the cable.
greg
nope, didn't have to remove the seat to remove the phillips cd-changer, just tie some string to it when you pull it out the gap, so you can pull the new lead back there!
From the near side passenger door I could lever the seat so I could see the cable.
greg
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10 July 2001, 12:59 AM
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Chris,
one thing I should mention is that I had to use an Autoleads (IIRC) spacer to get them to fit, you should be able to get a suitable one from Halfords for a Mk3 Cavalier or Corsa.
Also that I made the mistake of at first fitting the speakers with the terminals at the top which ment that when the windows where fully lowered that they would catch, but once rotated no problems since.
I have not got round to fitting any foam myself yet as I usually have the kids in the car
so can't have the sounds up too high, but would think that some 30-40mm thickness should do it. Failing that I suppose you could just use some sort of self adhesive draft excluder in the worst offending places.
Another thing you might want to do as you will have the doorcards off anyway, is to fit some better cables, It is a B!TCH of a job (not as bad as fitting an Acoustic rear shelf and speakers though!) to get the cable through to the inner door skin, but I think it is well worth the extra time spent compared to the feeble standard cable.
Maybe you might want to fit some sound proofing as well I used 2 large rolls of Brown bread for £14.99 each which I got from Maplins, but I have only done the inner door skins and the result would be even better with the outer skin done as well.
On the subject of autochangers I have secured mine to the carpet using just a packet of Sellotape Velcro from Halfords (any DIY shop) stuck to the base of the changer and have not had a single jump, skip or disc error despite trying hard too over some bumpy roads.
Oh and the brand name is spelt Infinity.
Hope this helps Ian
one thing I should mention is that I had to use an Autoleads (IIRC) spacer to get them to fit, you should be able to get a suitable one from Halfords for a Mk3 Cavalier or Corsa.
Also that I made the mistake of at first fitting the speakers with the terminals at the top which ment that when the windows where fully lowered that they would catch, but once rotated no problems since.
I have not got round to fitting any foam myself yet as I usually have the kids in the car
so can't have the sounds up too high, but would think that some 30-40mm thickness should do it. Failing that I suppose you could just use some sort of self adhesive draft excluder in the worst offending places.Another thing you might want to do as you will have the doorcards off anyway, is to fit some better cables, It is a B!TCH of a job (not as bad as fitting an Acoustic rear shelf and speakers though!) to get the cable through to the inner door skin, but I think it is well worth the extra time spent compared to the feeble standard cable.
Maybe you might want to fit some sound proofing as well I used 2 large rolls of Brown bread for £14.99 each which I got from Maplins, but I have only done the inner door skins and the result would be even better with the outer skin done as well.
On the subject of autochangers I have secured mine to the carpet using just a packet of Sellotape Velcro from Halfords (any DIY shop) stuck to the base of the changer and have not had a single jump, skip or disc error despite trying hard too over some bumpy roads.
Oh and the brand name is spelt Infinity.
Hope this helps Ian
10 July 2001, 10:32 AM
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Chris,
if you would like an idea of what Some infinity speakers sound like, I had the 652.2CS components fitted in my Type R when we went to the Ring. Not sure if these are the same ones mentioned by Chiark as I had them for quite a while before I got my Scoob.
One thing I would recommend you do even if you don't fit any sound proofing, is to fit some foam behind the door panel to stop it from rattling when you turn the headunit up, as my door cards rattle even when only on half volume from just the headunit.
Regards Ian
if you would like an idea of what Some infinity speakers sound like, I had the 652.2CS components fitted in my Type R when we went to the Ring. Not sure if these are the same ones mentioned by Chiark as I had them for quite a while before I got my Scoob.
One thing I would recommend you do even if you don't fit any sound proofing, is to fit some foam behind the door panel to stop it from rattling when you turn the headunit up, as my door cards rattle even when only on half volume from just the headunit.
Regards Ian
10 July 2001, 11:14 AM
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Hi Ian,
Oh yes, those speakers sounded very good pounding down the M1. Infinity's (or should that be Infinities?) it is then I think.
What sort of foam did you use?
Cheers,
Chris.
Oh yes, those speakers sounded very good pounding down the M1. Infinity's (or should that be Infinities?) it is then I think.
What sort of foam did you use?
Cheers,
Chris.
11 July 2001, 12:45 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by chiark:
<B>Gregh, that reminds me - must post that picture of where you shoe-horned your x-overs[/quote]
I wouldn't mind having a butchers at where greg put his cross overs mine are bodge taped to door... very gash...
cheers steve
<B>Gregh, that reminds me - must post that picture of where you shoe-horned your x-overs
[/quote]I wouldn't mind having a butchers at where greg put his cross overs mine are bodge taped to door... very gash...
cheers steve
11 July 2001, 12:58 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Funkii Munkii:
<B>These Infinity chappies everyones getting moist over what power do they handle?, 2 or 3 way??
at the mom I have 180w Pioneers on rear shelf, drop ins and 150w Pioneers in the front drop in again, 4 x 150 amp and Sub in boot KEH9700 head , kenwood Graphic and six play CD.
Would the infinitys be a lot better as I'm looking for a bit more in the front rather than swopping front 150's with the rear 180's, would I be wasting £120?? or would it significantly improve my listening pleasure
Cheers
[/quote]
Infinity components are 2 way separate tweeter & mid/bass unit. They'll handle 90watts rms continuous power (your 180watt pioneers probably handle 35 - 40 watts rms) your talking in max powers.(my kenwood had units says 4*50watts, but I'd be lucky to see 4* 20watts rms - more like 15watts) Yes they would be alot better than pioneers in front. but depends on your amp if you going to see a massive improvement. they like a fair bit of power. you can get them for less than £100 if you shop around (back pages of max power)
steve
<B>These Infinity chappies everyones getting moist over what power do they handle?, 2 or 3 way??
at the mom I have 180w Pioneers on rear shelf, drop ins and 150w Pioneers in the front drop in again, 4 x 150 amp and Sub in boot KEH9700 head , kenwood Graphic and six play CD.
Would the infinitys be a lot better as I'm looking for a bit more in the front rather than swopping front 150's with the rear 180's, would I be wasting £120?? or would it significantly improve my listening pleasure
Cheers
[/quote]Infinity components are 2 way separate tweeter & mid/bass unit. They'll handle 90watts rms continuous power (your 180watt pioneers probably handle 35 - 40 watts rms) your talking in max powers.(my kenwood had units says 4*50watts, but I'd be lucky to see 4* 20watts rms - more like 15watts) Yes they would be alot better than pioneers in front. but depends on your amp if you going to see a massive improvement. they like a fair bit of power. you can get them for less than £100 if you shop around (back pages of max power)
steve
11 July 2001, 08:31 AM
#15
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These Infinity chappies everyones getting moist over what power do they handle?, 2 or 3 way??
at the mom I have 180w Pioneers on rear shelf, drop ins and 150w Pioneers in the front drop in again, 4 x 150 amp and Sub in boot KEH9700 head , kenwood Graphic and six play CD.
Would the infinitys be a lot better as I'm looking for a bit more in the front rather than swopping front 150's with the rear 180's, would I be wasting £120?? or would it significantly improve my listening pleasure
Cheers
at the mom I have 180w Pioneers on rear shelf, drop ins and 150w Pioneers in the front drop in again, 4 x 150 amp and Sub in boot KEH9700 head , kenwood Graphic and six play CD.
Would the infinitys be a lot better as I'm looking for a bit more in the front rather than swopping front 150's with the rear 180's, would I be wasting £120?? or would it significantly improve my listening pleasure
Cheers
Top stuff Ian.
11 July 2001, 01:38 PM
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Funkii Munkii,
as Steve says the 652.2cs are 90W RMS with a rating of 360W peak with Sensitivity @ 2.83V:89db frequency response is 50Hz-21KHZ, they are a 2 way component with a seperate passive crossover. The mounting depth of these speakers is 62mm.
Ian
as Steve says the 652.2cs are 90W RMS with a rating of 360W peak with Sensitivity @ 2.83V:89db frequency response is 50Hz-21KHZ, they are a 2 way component with a seperate passive crossover. The mounting depth of these speakers is 62mm.
Ian
11 July 2001, 05:50 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by chiark:
[B]What, you mean that you've bodged it like this?
Thats the one, only I think I used more bodge tape to make it look more gash...
I must replace the stock wiring to x-over tho but not enough hours in day... and missus wants kitchen finishing this year... doh.
steve
[B]What, you mean that you've bodged it like this?
Thats the one, only I think I used more bodge tape to make it look more gash...
I must replace the stock wiring to x-over tho but not enough hours in day... and missus wants kitchen finishing this year... doh.
steve
12 July 2001, 08:37 AM
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Steve, the secret with the wiring is not to try and feed it through the grommet, but just pierce it for the wire with, erm, something stiff. (Dismembered coathanger worked for gregh)
Kitchen? LOL! BTDTGTTS! Fitted a kitchen in February 2000. 1200 quid for units, MFI wanted 1400 quid to fit it - no worries, say I, I'll fit it. One week's slog later and it resembles a kitchen but I'm damn proud of my handiwork. Tiled it in April. Final finishing touches in January 2001 just before the new buyers came around to view the house
Kitchen? LOL! BTDTGTTS! Fitted a kitchen in February 2000. 1200 quid for units, MFI wanted 1400 quid to fit it - no worries, say I, I'll fit it. One week's slog later and it resembles a kitchen but I'm damn proud of my handiwork. Tiled it in April. Final finishing touches in January 2001 just before the new buyers came around to view the house
12 July 2001, 02:13 PM
#21
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by chiark:
Steve, the secret with the wiring is not to try and feed it through the grommet, but just pierce it for the wire with, erm, something stiff. (Dismembered coathanger worked for gregh)<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I used a swiss army knife (the Cybertool actually), took the small blade and kept it at an angle (since the door and body get in the way) and pushed it through. Be careful you don't cut anything on the inside of the gromit though.
Steve.
Steve, the secret with the wiring is not to try and feed it through the grommet, but just pierce it for the wire with, erm, something stiff. (Dismembered coathanger worked for gregh)<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I used a swiss army knife (the Cybertool actually), took the small blade and kept it at an angle (since the door and body get in the way) and pushed it through. Be careful you don't cut anything on the inside of the gromit though.
Steve.
25 July 2001, 10:57 AM
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Ian,
Quickie question about the Brown Bread - I've just been looking through the Maplin catalogue and found some stuff called Loudspeaker Cabinet Wadding. Is this the stuff you used? It comes in 1/2 metres lengths and is 24in wide.
ChrisB.
Quickie question about the Brown Bread - I've just been looking through the Maplin catalogue and found some stuff called Loudspeaker Cabinet Wadding. Is this the stuff you used? It comes in 1/2 metres lengths and is 24in wide.
ChrisB.
25 July 2001, 11:22 AM
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No, speaker wadding is for putting in speaker boxes. It can have a good effect with some drivers as it can break up waves, plus fool the driver into thinking the box is slightly bigger.
25 July 2001, 11:55 AM
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Taxi!
Cheers guys. Thanks for the part codes John. My Maplin catalogue is out of date, but I found it on their web site.
So, it's door skins off, fit the speakers, stuff some brown bread in and sit back to enjoy sound nice tunes. (I really don't fancy changing the speaker cable!).
ChrisB.
Cheers guys. Thanks for the part codes John. My Maplin catalogue is out of date, but I found it on their web site.
So, it's door skins off, fit the speakers, stuff some brown bread in and sit back to enjoy sound nice tunes. (I really don't fancy changing the speaker cable!).
ChrisB.
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