Infinity 605CS 6.5" speakers - how easy to fit?
#1
I know people have mentioned trouble-free installation of Infinity 605CS 6.5" speakers into Scooby front doors in other posts. The question is how easy?
Basicly I don't want to have to chop up any existing bits of my Scooby (i.e. the current plastic speaker mounting or the door cut out itself). Do these speakers fit straight in? or do I need to use some MDF (which I don't mind doing) to fix them to the existing plastic speaker mounting?
Also do the tweeters fit nicely into the small grill by the door handle (I know acousticly there are better places, but I don't want tweeters on display and I'm not worried about getting the "perfect" sound).
Any advice on this issue appreciated.
Cheers
Stuart
MY99
Basicly I don't want to have to chop up any existing bits of my Scooby (i.e. the current plastic speaker mounting or the door cut out itself). Do these speakers fit straight in? or do I need to use some MDF (which I don't mind doing) to fix them to the existing plastic speaker mounting?
Also do the tweeters fit nicely into the small grill by the door handle (I know acousticly there are better places, but I don't want tweeters on display and I'm not worried about getting the "perfect" sound).
Any advice on this issue appreciated.
Cheers
Stuart
MY99
#2
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The woofers drop straight into the existing plastic mount using the supplied metal fitment ring.
I gave up with making a bracket for behind the door handle tweeter point, but you can get a ready made bracket from the dealer. You might be able to make a bracket up yourself anyway
No cutting of trim or anything required. Just the wiring to take care of
That's in a MY00....don't know about the new shape
[Edited by Hanslow - 5/29/2002 4:43:46 PM]
I gave up with making a bracket for behind the door handle tweeter point, but you can get a ready made bracket from the dealer. You might be able to make a bracket up yourself anyway
No cutting of trim or anything required. Just the wiring to take care of
That's in a MY00....don't know about the new shape
[Edited by Hanslow - 5/29/2002 4:43:46 PM]
#4
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Town End garage may be able to source you a set at a cheaper price than dealer. Or try one of the other breakers. I think at the dealer they were expensive for what they are.....
Town End's site is here http://www.subaruspareparts.co.uk
Town End's site is here http://www.subaruspareparts.co.uk
#5
I fitted the Infinity 605cs on Sunday to my MY98.
I don't have any prior experience of doing this kind of thing, but it went really smoothly.
It took me about 4-5 hours, but that's 'cos I was going really slowly and the weather kept throwing showers at me (no garage). After I'd done one side the other was a breeze.
I had to do the following as part of the fitting process:
The back of the plastic speaker basket has a lip that you have to trim 'cos the magnet on the Infinities is larger than the standard speakers. Once you do this and use the metal ring supplied with the speakers all you have to do is trim down three plastic studs on the basket a fraction and the speakers drop in nice and snug. They then fit straight back in the door. Trimming the basket takes less than 5 mins.
I mounted the crossovers in the lower rear of the door. There's quite a big volume of space to the rear edge of door, because the door card flares out to provide space for the door pocket. I used a cardboard template to cut an MDF mounting plate that fits over the gap in the metal at the lower rear of the door (you'll see it when you take the door card off). Allow a gap to feed the wire from the woofer through the door and on to the crossover.
I secured the plate with a bead of silicon mastic (the bathroom stuff), as it gives a good bond but you can get it off, and it doesn't damage the metal.
Similar process for the tweeters. Screwed their mounting basket onto a small piece of MDF, masticed that onto the door metal (line it up with the grill and hold it in place with a bit of tape while the mastic cures).
Put the door cards back on and you'd never know I'd done it, that is until you turn the stereo on. I'm driving them off an aftermarket Panasonic head unit and they sound soooo much better than the CR*P that's factory fitted. Do it! You won't regret it!
PS, sorry about the long post, and check out Chiark's site for lots of useful tips about getting the door cards off and other handy stuff.
I don't have any prior experience of doing this kind of thing, but it went really smoothly.
It took me about 4-5 hours, but that's 'cos I was going really slowly and the weather kept throwing showers at me (no garage). After I'd done one side the other was a breeze.
I had to do the following as part of the fitting process:
The back of the plastic speaker basket has a lip that you have to trim 'cos the magnet on the Infinities is larger than the standard speakers. Once you do this and use the metal ring supplied with the speakers all you have to do is trim down three plastic studs on the basket a fraction and the speakers drop in nice and snug. They then fit straight back in the door. Trimming the basket takes less than 5 mins.
I mounted the crossovers in the lower rear of the door. There's quite a big volume of space to the rear edge of door, because the door card flares out to provide space for the door pocket. I used a cardboard template to cut an MDF mounting plate that fits over the gap in the metal at the lower rear of the door (you'll see it when you take the door card off). Allow a gap to feed the wire from the woofer through the door and on to the crossover.
I secured the plate with a bead of silicon mastic (the bathroom stuff), as it gives a good bond but you can get it off, and it doesn't damage the metal.
Similar process for the tweeters. Screwed their mounting basket onto a small piece of MDF, masticed that onto the door metal (line it up with the grill and hold it in place with a bit of tape while the mastic cures).
Put the door cards back on and you'd never know I'd done it, that is until you turn the stereo on. I'm driving them off an aftermarket Panasonic head unit and they sound soooo much better than the CR*P that's factory fitted. Do it! You won't regret it!
PS, sorry about the long post, and check out Chiark's site for lots of useful tips about getting the door cards off and other handy stuff.
#6
Sounds like a good job for the bank holiday weekend.
The only problem I have is that I had the door trim apart on the drivers side OK, but one of the passenger side screws (the one behind the electric window control) is so tight I can't undo it. This is difficult to believe - for a '99 car, which I'm assuming has not been buggered about with before.
I used a good quality screw driver, the right size and it's so flippin' tight the screw head it starting to get damaged.
I don't want to damage it further. This could put a real dampner on doing the job.
Cheers
Stu
The only problem I have is that I had the door trim apart on the drivers side OK, but one of the passenger side screws (the one behind the electric window control) is so tight I can't undo it. This is difficult to believe - for a '99 car, which I'm assuming has not been buggered about with before.
I used a good quality screw driver, the right size and it's so flippin' tight the screw head it starting to get damaged.
I don't want to damage it further. This could put a real dampner on doing the job.
Cheers
Stu
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#8
One of the screws on mine was really tight, and I started to damage the crosshead.
I ended up using number 3 pozidrive bit (which has a really chunky end) held in a hand screwdriver bit holder . It fitted perfectly, and let me put enough torque on the screw to loosen it off.
Edited to say that you can buy these screw loosener things that have a bit on one end and you hit with a hammer on the other. I think the idea is the force holds the bit in the screw and as you hit this gadget it also applies and unscrewing motion.
Never had to use one, but someone else may be able to verify if they work?
[Edited by Mike P - 5/29/2002 5:08:18 PM]
I ended up using number 3 pozidrive bit (which has a really chunky end) held in a hand screwdriver bit holder . It fitted perfectly, and let me put enough torque on the screw to loosen it off.
Edited to say that you can buy these screw loosener things that have a bit on one end and you hit with a hammer on the other. I think the idea is the force holds the bit in the screw and as you hit this gadget it also applies and unscrewing motion.
Never had to use one, but someone else may be able to verify if they work?
[Edited by Mike P - 5/29/2002 5:08:18 PM]
#11
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Halfords offer that do they my local uns garage is now owned by AA type chaps & my understanding from previous enquiries was fitting of head unit over £300 was free but speakers u had 2 pay 2 get em 2 fit
Si
Si
#13
Just a note about using silicone: whilst it cures, it evolves acetic acid in fumes.
This stuff eats rubber. Some speakers have suspensions made of rubber.
Something to be aware of, if nothing else
This stuff eats rubber. Some speakers have suspensions made of rubber.
Something to be aware of, if nothing else
#16
I could not shift one of those screws come hell or high water. With a screwdriver that was - but the extra torque from a socket spanner with screw driving adaptor on the end had it out like a piece of pizza.
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