oil pressure gauage
#2
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Most of what you need should come with the gauge but you'll need to get one of these if you want to continue using the OE pressure switch
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPREZA-WR...item2333522065
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPREZA-WR...item2333522065
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Most of what you need should come with the gauge but you'll need to get one of these if you want to continue using the OE pressure switch
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPREZA-WR...item2333522065
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPREZA-WR...item2333522065
cheers
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There's a couple of different ones with different threads - I can't remember which one you need but if it's only going in a bit it's probably tightening up as the threads are crossing
#7
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Most of what you need should come with the gauge but you'll need to get one of these if you want to continue using the OE pressure switch
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPREZA-WR...item2333522065
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPREZA-WR...item2333522065
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#8
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Threaded part is usually 1/4 npt - national pipe taper. So the thread gets wider from the tip to base if that makes sense.
So basically as you tighten it it wedges itself into the hole. So dont over tighten lol
So basically as you tighten it it wedges itself into the hole. So dont over tighten lol
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I usually take oil temp from the sump. Used to run revotec sump plug adaptors, but most wont want to get rid of the magnetic sump plug i expect.
On my next oil change tho i think ill get a fumoto valve to make oil changes far cleaner/easier
On my next oil change tho i think ill get a fumoto valve to make oil changes far cleaner/easier
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I took the cars oil pressure sensor out and replaced it with the gauge sensor, if the oil light comes on there's no oil pressure not just low pressure so your engine is probably already dead!
Temp sensor is on cylinder 3 as above.
Temp sensor is on cylinder 3 as above.
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But surely the oil in the sump will be at a more constant temp?
Admittidly when i had it in the sump it was not on an impreza, but i wouldnt have thought engine design would have made that much of a difference.
Im not saying im right/your wrong or anything, just the way i understand things lol
Admittidly when i had it in the sump it was not on an impreza, but i wouldnt have thought engine design would have made that much of a difference.
Im not saying im right/your wrong or anything, just the way i understand things lol
#15
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It could possibly be more consistent but thats debatable as the reading is taken from the bottom of the engine not the hotter top part...what would you rather have...Consistency or the hottest oil temp reading to be on the cautious side...Bearing(no pun intended ) in mind how many end up suffering from rod knock on Cyl No.3
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It could possibly be more consistent but thats debatable as the reading is taken from the bottom of the engine not the hotter top part...what would you rather have...Consistency or the hottest oil temp reading to be on the cautious side...Bearing(no pun intended ) in mind how many end up suffering from rod knock on Cyl No.3
You don't want a consistent reading, you want the highest.
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Get the install kit.
http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=1591
The hose/adapter allows you to fit both the gauge pressure sensor and the cars OE sensor to the fitting under the alternator, the adapter boss replaces a blanking plug over cylinder 3 (under Intercooler back left of engine looking from the front) and allows fitment of the temp sensor.
http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=1591
The hose/adapter allows you to fit both the gauge pressure sensor and the cars OE sensor to the fitting under the alternator, the adapter boss replaces a blanking plug over cylinder 3 (under Intercooler back left of engine looking from the front) and allows fitment of the temp sensor.
Last edited by BlueBugEye; 04 January 2014 at 06:22 AM.
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Get the install kit.
http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=1591
The hose/adapter allows you to fit both the gauge pressure sensor and the cars OE sensor to the fitting under the alternator, the adapter boss replaces a blanking plug over cylinder 3 (under Intercooler back left of engine looking from the front) and allows fitment of the temp sensor.
http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=1591
The hose/adapter allows you to fit both the gauge pressure sensor and the cars OE sensor to the fitting under the alternator, the adapter boss replaces a blanking plug over cylinder 3 (under Intercooler back left of engine looking from the front) and allows fitment of the temp sensor.
Yes
#21
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IF your new sender fits, and IF you don't want the OE useless oil pressure SWITCH, you might be able to fit the new sender where the o/p switch fits and do away with the big bit of that kit.
It's how I've done my Defis. The o/p switch is sat on a shelf in the garage, probably doing as much good as it ever did on the car.....
It's how I've done my Defis. The o/p switch is sat on a shelf in the garage, probably doing as much good as it ever did on the car.....
#24
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No..screw in by hand until it tightens, then about another half turn. use PTFE tape to help the seal, but don't go mad, the sender may need to earth through the block, and it can't if you overdo the tape.
Tip: always wind the tape round the threads so that, on screwing the sender in, the tape is pulled tighter, NOT unwound.
Tip: always wind the tape round the threads so that, on screwing the sender in, the tape is pulled tighter, NOT unwound.
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The hose/adaptor block is for oil pressure only - the OE sensor goes in the side I think and the Gauge sensor in the end. This comes from the original take off under the alternator. Temp is via the reducing boss over cylinder 3
#26
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Then the oe pressure sensor goes into the side of the adaptor and the pressure sensor for the gauge then goes in the top.
Wouldn't I need to extend the wiring from the oe pressure sensor to reach?
#27
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No mate, wrong I'm afraid.
Remove old oil pressure switch. Screw that long adpator in it's place.
Now screw the new o/p sender into the end of that long adaptor, and either a bung, or the old o/p/s into the other tapped hole in it's end.
Remove the bung on top of cylinder No.3. Screw the smaller adaptor into it, then screw the oil TEMP sender into there.
Those are the two proper places from which to get readings.
You CAN do it other ways, but it's the lazy man's way and you don't get correct readings.
Remove old oil pressure switch. Screw that long adpator in it's place.
Now screw the new o/p sender into the end of that long adaptor, and either a bung, or the old o/p/s into the other tapped hole in it's end.
Remove the bung on top of cylinder No.3. Screw the smaller adaptor into it, then screw the oil TEMP sender into there.
Those are the two proper places from which to get readings.
You CAN do it other ways, but it's the lazy man's way and you don't get correct readings.
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You can get a boss that goes into the oil pressure switch hole that you fit both pressure sensors into from Scoobyclinic this does away with having the above unit laid along the inlet manifold.
#29
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No mate, wrong I'm afraid.
Remove old oil pressure switch. Screw that long adpator in it's place.
Now screw the new o/p sender into the end of that long adaptor, and either a bung, or the old o/p/s into the other tapped hole in it's end.
Remove the bung on top of cylinder No.3. Screw the smaller adaptor into it, then screw the oil TEMP sender into there.
Those are the two proper places from which to get readings.
You CAN do it other ways, but it's the lazy man's way and you don't get correct readings.
Remove old oil pressure switch. Screw that long adpator in it's place.
Now screw the new o/p sender into the end of that long adaptor, and either a bung, or the old o/p/s into the other tapped hole in it's end.
Remove the bung on top of cylinder No.3. Screw the smaller adaptor into it, then screw the oil TEMP sender into there.
Those are the two proper places from which to get readings.
You CAN do it other ways, but it's the lazy man's way and you don't get correct readings.
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