stalling, no power, ticking, should I fear the worst?
07 August 2013, 12:35 AM
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stalling, no power, ticking, should I fear the worst?
Hi all,
The car hesitated the other day, around 3500 rpm mostly. After checking for errors, I got error 24 (iacv). I resetted the ECU to see if it would come back, but it didn't. Car is planned for an oil change this friday, so I'd figured I'd ask about it then.
When I checked the engine bay before resetting the ECU, I noticed there was oil coming from my BOV. I guess this has been so for a while, as the intercoolerpiping was a bit greasy on the inside, when I changed a silicone hose a few months ago, right after I bought the car and it started hesitating/idling bad/become nearly undriveable (oxygen sensor error code). Didn't think it was worrying back then, never saw the inside of turbopiping.
Anyway, about 50-60 miles after the error, the car stalled when I made a slow U-turn, after a mile or two of hard driving. It wouldn't start again, coolant was dumped from the overflow bottle.
Checking the water temp after a few minutes, I noticed it was at about 75%. Normally, it never goes over middle.
After 15-20min it started again, but it was still trying to stall if you didn't keep the revs up. The car had no power in low rpms (didn't try to get in boost), and made a ticking sound (I think after a while, not right from the start, but I'm not sure). A home-mechanic who saw me coming home, said it wasn't running on all cilinders.
LONGER VERSION:
A while back I've bought this car: https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-444...-wagon-v3.html
It took quite a while to get road legal in Belgium, as it is a Japanese car, but since a few weeks, it's all good.
Anyway, since buying it, I've done about 1500 miles I'd say. Total mileage is ~65000, 24000 of those are in KM, and the mileage reads a bit high compared to the actual mileage (100 miles is 85-90 miles irl).
I had the car for sale atm, as I was planning to LPG it and use as a daily, but I can't get convinced the engine'll take it without problems.
Monday, on the way to work, noticed the car hesitated sometimes, most often around 3500 rpm. I checked for error codes, and got error 24 (IACV). I resetted the ECU to see if it would come back, but it didn't. The car is planned for an oil change on friday, so I figured I'd ask my mechanic about it then.
Anyway, that evening, a potential buyer noticed there was quite a bit of oil coming from the BOV. I've noticed that my intercoolerpiping was greasy when I changed a faulty silicone hose after some issues(oxygen sensor fault, bad idling, hesitation, no boost) 10 miles before I got home on the day I got the car (~500 mile drive). I had never seen the inside of intercoolerpiping, so I didn't think it was unusual.
Anyway, on the testdrive (with a few miles of hard driving after warming the car up), I wanted to turn on an empty strech of road, so I could let the (young) buyer have a go. The car stalled when turning. It wouldn't start again, coolant was dumped from the overflow bottle.
Checking the water temp after a few minutes, I noticed it was at about 75%. Normally, it never goes over middle.
After 15-20min it started again, but it was still trying to stall if you didn't keep the revs up. The car had no power in low rpms (didn't try to get in boost), and made a ticking sound (I think after a while, not right from the start, but I'm not sure).
After arriving at home, the (mechanically inclined) father of the buyer said it wasn't running on all cilinders. The car goes to the mechanic on friday, but I'm fearing the worst. Overall, I've driven about 1500 miles, I'd say.
Could it be something small?
The car hesitated the other day, around 3500 rpm mostly. After checking for errors, I got error 24 (iacv). I resetted the ECU to see if it would come back, but it didn't. Car is planned for an oil change this friday, so I'd figured I'd ask about it then.
When I checked the engine bay before resetting the ECU, I noticed there was oil coming from my BOV. I guess this has been so for a while, as the intercoolerpiping was a bit greasy on the inside, when I changed a silicone hose a few months ago, right after I bought the car and it started hesitating/idling bad/become nearly undriveable (oxygen sensor error code). Didn't think it was worrying back then, never saw the inside of turbopiping.
Anyway, about 50-60 miles after the error, the car stalled when I made a slow U-turn, after a mile or two of hard driving. It wouldn't start again, coolant was dumped from the overflow bottle.
Checking the water temp after a few minutes, I noticed it was at about 75%. Normally, it never goes over middle.
After 15-20min it started again, but it was still trying to stall if you didn't keep the revs up. The car had no power in low rpms (didn't try to get in boost), and made a ticking sound (I think after a while, not right from the start, but I'm not sure). A home-mechanic who saw me coming home, said it wasn't running on all cilinders.
LONGER VERSION:
A while back I've bought this car: https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-444...-wagon-v3.html
It took quite a while to get road legal in Belgium, as it is a Japanese car, but since a few weeks, it's all good.
Anyway, since buying it, I've done about 1500 miles I'd say. Total mileage is ~65000, 24000 of those are in KM, and the mileage reads a bit high compared to the actual mileage (100 miles is 85-90 miles irl).
I had the car for sale atm, as I was planning to LPG it and use as a daily, but I can't get convinced the engine'll take it without problems.
Monday, on the way to work, noticed the car hesitated sometimes, most often around 3500 rpm. I checked for error codes, and got error 24 (IACV). I resetted the ECU to see if it would come back, but it didn't. The car is planned for an oil change on friday, so I figured I'd ask my mechanic about it then.
Anyway, that evening, a potential buyer noticed there was quite a bit of oil coming from the BOV. I've noticed that my intercoolerpiping was greasy when I changed a faulty silicone hose after some issues(oxygen sensor fault, bad idling, hesitation, no boost) 10 miles before I got home on the day I got the car (~500 mile drive). I had never seen the inside of intercoolerpiping, so I didn't think it was unusual.
Anyway, on the testdrive (with a few miles of hard driving after warming the car up), I wanted to turn on an empty strech of road, so I could let the (young) buyer have a go. The car stalled when turning. It wouldn't start again, coolant was dumped from the overflow bottle.
Checking the water temp after a few minutes, I noticed it was at about 75%. Normally, it never goes over middle.
After 15-20min it started again, but it was still trying to stall if you didn't keep the revs up. The car had no power in low rpms (didn't try to get in boost), and made a ticking sound (I think after a while, not right from the start, but I'm not sure).
After arriving at home, the (mechanically inclined) father of the buyer said it wasn't running on all cilinders. The car goes to the mechanic on friday, but I'm fearing the worst. Overall, I've driven about 1500 miles, I'd say.
Could it be something small?
Last edited by Terror Factor; 07 August 2013 at 12:44 AM.
09 August 2013, 10:40 PM
#3
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Will have to try that! My mechanic fears the worst though. The engine should get out to see what's broken.
It makes the same noise as my mx5 turbo did after I upped the boost way too high. Also a loss of power. All cilinders are still firing, he tried unplugging the spark plug cables one by one.
What would be the most cost effective way to get this back up and running? If I wasn't about to sell the car, I'd get it forged/buy a forged engine, but that's money I won't make back now.
I possibly know a cheapish euro turbo engine, from a crashed car. Is the cable tree the same as on my car? AFAIK it's from a late classic. Could I just use that engine/turbo and ecu, and plug it in my car?
An STI with a gt turbo engine is a bit lame though
It makes the same noise as my mx5 turbo did after I upped the boost way too high. Also a loss of power. All cilinders are still firing, he tried unplugging the spark plug cables one by one.
What would be the most cost effective way to get this back up and running? If I wasn't about to sell the car, I'd get it forged/buy a forged engine, but that's money I won't make back now.
I possibly know a cheapish euro turbo engine, from a crashed car. Is the cable tree the same as on my car? AFAIK it's from a late classic. Could I just use that engine/turbo and ecu, and plug it in my car?
An STI with a gt turbo engine is a bit lame though
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