loz_dormer1988

Okay I've got a classic Uk Turbo 2000, 12 years old 106,000 miles no real engine mods and never had an engine overhaul.

Basically when on boost I'm loosing coolant through the top radiator Hose. The coolants squeezing through the clamp due to extreme pressure on the hose, it feels like its going to explode! To eliminate any airlocks or bad coolant I completely flushed the coolant system and bled the system with fresh coolant so I know it hasn't got any airlocks. I also did a sniff test but as its only pressurising when on boost this didn't prove anything.

I've looked through previous post's and threads regarding this issue and it seems to be the head gasket is issue here. So anyway I'm going to be doing the head gaskets and whilst the engines out I'm going to be replacing the clutch kit and timing belt, Ill also be changing the crankshaft bearings as I know this is a must when changing the head gaskets.

I'm not looking to up rate anything as ill never be running big power and I need to keep the prices down. I've looked a few parts and gasket kits on eBay but they don't fill me with confidence! So where's the best places to buy the following;

Clutch kit with release bearing,
Complete engine Gasket kit with head gaskets,
Timing belt,
Crankshaft bearings
And anything else I may need?

Also are the head bolts re-usable? And generally do the heads need to be skimmed?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated,

Cheers Laurence

bighead

iTrader: (1)

yr local subaru dealer is the best place to start , unless you want uprated part that is .

I had the same problem as you ...only ever loose coolant at motorway speed , when drive normal ..... it never loose a drop , all down to the heads lifting under boost , as i had a rebuilt forged 2.5 running 450 bhp and engine was just "ran in" when it happened .

Athame1

iTrader: (2)

Mine did this ended up being a stuck thermostat, might be worth taking it out and popping it in some boiling water

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Sorry to say mate but if it ain't the above mentioned thermostat it's one of your head gaskets thats just starting to go. I had this problem driving off boost was fine but when on boost water bubbling in the overflow tank and out of the cap. It was a failed head gasket on the drivers side on mine when I got the engine out. If your keep driving it it will get worse very quickly and you'll start to see the other head gasket signs appearing like mayo in oil/coolant tank, cold heater when it should be hot, rock hard top hose. etc.
Good luck with it. You can fix your self if you can for around £700 ish including engine rebuild/skims in standard spec if you shop around. I was quoted £1700+**** tax at one garage. DIY'd it in the end. Good luck with it fella.

I was warned by quite a few members and backed up by Kev at SC to do the bottom end main's/big ends whilst doing the heads as most fail shortly after if you don't apparantly.

Head bolts are re-useable but pretty cheap new.
Powermax engineering are good for parts and advice. Speak with Dean. ACL bearing's, Hastings race piston rings.
Simon at Import car parts is really good. I bought there timing belt kit/water pump and loads of other stuff from them
One of the ebay sellers has good gasket kits Shirley something or other is the name.
Crankshaft holding tool is cheap enough and very hady although not essential. Cam pulley tool is not needed with the engine out you can get a big adjustable spanner on the cam hex to hold and undo/torque back up.
Be very careful with all the bolts take it steady and slow when undoing use full hex sockets they strip easy. Use torque setting when building back up. Use quality sealants.
Have the heads measured and skimmed. Mine were not warped and only needed 7thou off each just to clean them up.
Timing the engine back up is very very easy espicially when the engine is out. Freezer bag everthing and label them. Look at the RH and LH side marking on the heads. They are opposite to when you are stood infront of the engine to your hands. Cams and caps are all marked on them pay attention to the order front, middle & back is how I labelled them with an I or E for inlet/exhaust.Once the cams were out I cleaned the top of each bucket with brake cleaner then wrote it's position and I or E on top before removing them Use brake cleaner with just a rag don't spray it onto the buckets as it will make them harder to remove. Crank sprocket behind the pully can be hard to remove as the corrode onto the crank and have a woodruff key in. Just keep WDing it and gently working it if it's stuck just don't bend the crank sensor pickup ring on the back(your's may just come off easy) Check that key way for damage. A new key is a few quid. When you've finished an got it back in. Unplug the crank sensor and cold crank the engine for about a minute. The plug back in and start the car. Torco rebuild oil is very good to use on all the parts on assembly. Steve.

One last tip if you split the block to do the bottom end use a scissor jack oh and another thing fit the rear crank seal on the crank before you lower the crank back in place and don't push it on to far it want's to be a 1mm in from the end of the casing or it will leak. Same for the front crank seal remove it from the oil pump and fit a new one before you refit the pump again don't insert it to far.

loz_dormer1988

Tbh I'm pretty sure it's the head gasket and I've come to terms that I'm going to be doing an engine re-build so I think I'm just going to do it as ill have piece of mind that its all done and should be trouble free for the rest of the time I have it.

I'm a technician for Toyota so ill be doing it myself on my ramp so that won't be an issue. As the engines out ill be replacing and cleaning everything whilst the engines out so once it's done, it's done and I won't have to worry about anything else.

Firez34 where abouts did you get your parts from?

Cheers

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Powermax engineering for the ACL bearing and rings.
http://www.powermaxengineering.com/
Import car parts for almost everthing else.
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/

loz_dormer1988

Firez Thanks for that long post and all the advice only just read it all fully. Great help! Ive been to Lateral performance as theyre only round the corner to get a price list for all the parts but im going to shop around. Ill give Importcarparts a ring aswell.

Are the bottom end main bearings and rings one size or do i need to measure the crank to get the size needed?

Lets just hope ive been a good boy this year and santa brings me lots of money for christmas

speedking

Uprated head bolts will minimise the risk of this known problem recurring

loz_dormer1988

Are updated head bolts a must? I wasn't even planning on changing the headbolts. I've looked at a few compaines and it seems to be about £600-£700 for everything, which i tho is pretty reasonable, if I start updating anything ill end up spending thousands!

bighead

iTrader: (1)

for 300ish bhp the standard studs are "ok",but if yr going to rebuild it a case of "while yr in there " do it now than doing it later when the engine goes !

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Hi mate, You need to check the mains and big end Sizes. ACL do bearings right upto +.075 over standard size for the crank. Even though some say it's a no no to have a crank reground on the Subaru engine. Also theres a post on here somewhere with every engine nut/bolt torque value for the rebuild. Uprated Head studs are not required for a standard build mate. I won a brand new set of B&G head bolts for 5.99 +p&p from ebay. Best thing to do is decide what you want to do before you start and get the right stuff once.

loz_dormer1988

I know this was a quite a while ago, but i got round to fitting the timing belt the other week and whilst i was there i completely flushed the cooling system and fitted a new thermostat and the problem has gone, Thermostat was knackered when i tested it on the bench.

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi there

Personally I would speak with engine builder over here like Paul Finch,EngineTuner,WMS,APi or Slowboy Racing

We're using Neil@Slowboy racing and we are been happy with previous build,which has been based on WRX Open Deck Block 2.1L and we are made 490bhp without the problem

And about the headstuds,yes I would add better headstuds like ARP 11mm or Cosworth headstuds,really its worth the extra.ACL Race bearings I would use

If you are thinking get build slowly,have look on 2.1L stroker kits from Advanced Automotives and really 2.1L is worth extra over 2.0L

Good luck with build

Jura

poolio74

Don't think you read the post above mate

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Oops probably not




Jura

loz_dormer1988

Thanks for the info anyway Jura. It turned out the problem was the thermostat was knackered causing the pressure problem and a small crack in radiator to where the coolant was coming from. I was gunna re-build the engine just because I could really and peace of mind that everything's new, but times have changed and the cars running fine now so ill leave it how it is.