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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 06:40 PM
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n reg impreza 2000 turbo

hi all i parked up in me garage my impreza classic at start of november mainly to keep all the salt thats on the roads this time of year off her and to do a few jobs on her aswell.
started her up today and the engine has developed a rattle on the passenger side of the engine sounds like a rattley valve lifter to me ( sounds like an old astra 8v i had a few years ago ), are these engine known to get noisey lifters ?
when i rev it the noise goes but on idle it returns.
the car has an amazing service history and the oil and filter thats on now has covered ledd than 2k miles ( 10 40w semi synth ).
can you buy lifters for this engine ? also can they be changed with the engine in the car?
many thanks
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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From: nafferton
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Not to put a downer on things mate but this is how my constant bottom end rattle started, from the piston on the passenger side closest too the turbo hope this is not the case !!
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 07:12 PM
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i'll keep me fingers crossed its not that
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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From: nafferton
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Sorry dude it's prob nothing, did you check the injectors as sometimes they click a little ? Get some one too gently press the throttle whilst you have your head in the engine bay..
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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From: Rl'yeh
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Not the turbo heat shield, then?
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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Hi no its definatly not the the turbo heatshield as its not fitted thanks
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 08:16 AM
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As said above could be an injector,so have a good listen,whilst your there change your engine oil imho for a good quality fully synthetic engine oil.The heat from a turbo engine will break down the best semi synthetic oil in no time & a fully synthetic will offer better protection at high revs. Your handbook might say use 10/40 semi,as this was the best oil available in1996,but oil has advanced along way since then.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 08:30 AM
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Thanks for all your replies. Think ill start with an oil change to fully synthetic maybe sum mobil 1
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 09:14 AM
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After you have done your oil & filter change,it is advisable that you disconnect your crankshaft sensor before you start it up.This is located at the front of the engine to the left of your alternator between the fan belt.Turn car over till you see your oil light go out,then reconnect sensor,and start up & enjoy .
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by gregwagonturbo
Thanks for all your replies. Think ill start with an oil change to fully synthetic maybe sum mobil 1
I would avoid mobil 1 and go for either Millers of Fuch/silkolene Pro S full synth.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by L.J.F
I would avoid mobil 1 and go for either Millers of Fuch/silkolene Pro S full synth.
What's wrong with Mobil? Don't use it my self, just curious as to why it should be avoided.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 09:51 AM
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+1 for the above, but if you dont want to spend £50+,then opt for shell helix ultra as used by Bob Rawle(there fuel ain't bad either) or Gulf fully synthetic 5/40 from Opie oils which is £30 for 5 ltrs and a good ether based racing oil.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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is you oil pressure ok? do you have a oil pressure gauge fitted? should be around 40psi on hot idle.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Thanks for all the rxcellent advice ive got an oil pressure tester so will give it a test for pressure. I will opt for a good 5 40w oil.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by L.J.F
I would avoid mobil 1 and go for either Millers of Fuch/silkolene Pro S full synth.
+1

go for Fuch titan pro s 5 w40 fully synth.
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