Heat wrap /How many gaskets for GT Spec Headers required
01 September 2011, 07:35 PM
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Heat wrap /How many gaskets for GT Spec Headers required
I need to take my GT spec headers off due to a slight blow and at the same time re-wrap them.
How many gaskets will I need? Heads to headers x2, up-pipe to turbo? I honestly cannot remember how many were used last time.
What is the wrap of choice these days? How much you looking at?
Steve
How many gaskets will I need? Heads to headers x2, up-pipe to turbo? I honestly cannot remember how many were used last time.
What is the wrap of choice these days? How much you looking at?
Steve
Last edited by Stevesbluewrx; 01 September 2011 at 07:37 PM.
03 September 2011, 02:50 PM
#4
The 2 head gaskets and the turbo to uppipe gasket rarely need replacing but the 3 bolt header to uppipe gasket is a weak point when running the solid uppipe supplied with the GT header set. That single gasket is expensive as are the gaskets listed above so for that reason I would only replace if necessary.
Running a slip jointed uppipe means the 3 bolt gasket lasts for ages. It also greatly improves spool, torque and response.
I have DEI Titanium wrap here but it is less effective, despite the greater expense, than the normal buff (or black) DEI heat wrap.
The Titanium can go for £65 plus postage just to get rid of it. I won't use it. The buff wrap is £55 a roll. The black is £61.50. Both the black and buff have stitching down the side to assist in judging the overlap.
Running a slip jointed uppipe means the 3 bolt gasket lasts for ages. It also greatly improves spool, torque and response.
I have DEI Titanium wrap here but it is less effective, despite the greater expense, than the normal buff (or black) DEI heat wrap.
The Titanium can go for £65 plus postage just to get rid of it. I won't use it. The buff wrap is £55 a roll. The black is £61.50. Both the black and buff have stitching down the side to assist in judging the overlap.
03 September 2011, 02:53 PM
#5
Guide to heat wrapping.
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It also has good service life when properly applied. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, more economical in use.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions carefully.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
As a rule of thumb I run a length of wrap along the component to be wrapped and then measure off X 6. This works quite well on downpipes, tubular header runners, uppipes and so forth. On a straight length I multiply by 5.
Following the stitch overlap is important to get the best economy of wrap material but check regularly to avoid skips/bare patches on sections you cannot see. Avoid over wrapping. There is nothing to gain and it is wasteful. Following the stitching on the inside of tight bends is not possible.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set a sink tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the weave. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out. Keep away from foodstuff.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
If you want to change direction that is easily achieved by turning the wrap over through 180 degrees. This is useful where there is a change of diameter for instance and helps keep the wrap tight.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time. Wrapping a section with a single length of wrap results in a neater job.
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tubular headers will take a full 50'.
Tie at the end and then every 3 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Wrapped properly it can last for years.
Happy wrapping.
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It also has good service life when properly applied. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, more economical in use.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions carefully.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
As a rule of thumb I run a length of wrap along the component to be wrapped and then measure off X 6. This works quite well on downpipes, tubular header runners, uppipes and so forth. On a straight length I multiply by 5.
Following the stitch overlap is important to get the best economy of wrap material but check regularly to avoid skips/bare patches on sections you cannot see. Avoid over wrapping. There is nothing to gain and it is wasteful. Following the stitching on the inside of tight bends is not possible.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set a sink tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the weave. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out. Keep away from foodstuff.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
If you want to change direction that is easily achieved by turning the wrap over through 180 degrees. This is useful where there is a change of diameter for instance and helps keep the wrap tight.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time. Wrapping a section with a single length of wrap results in a neater job.
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tubular headers will take a full 50'.
Tie at the end and then every 3 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Wrapped properly it can last for years.
Happy wrapping.
04 September 2011, 09:44 AM
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Right or wrong I don't know but I used some stuff off eBay, cost around £30 to do my complete standard headers, up pipe and complete downpipe.
When the engine was at running temp it was still possible to touch the headers with not very much heat escaping at all.
HTH someone who is on a budget.
Thanks Ian.
When the engine was at running temp it was still possible to touch the headers with not very much heat escaping at all.
HTH someone who is on a budget.
Thanks Ian.
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