2.5l engine cost?
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Mine was £4k from Andy Williams - Spec as follows:
Compression ratio 8:0:1
2nd hand EJ257 block (99.5 bore) - Deglazed
New Jap spec Nitrided Crank
Forged H section Rods - ARP2000 bolts
Wossner 99.5 forged pistons
ACL race bearings (main and shell)
New HP Oil pump
Cometic Head gaskets (1.2mm)
ARP Headstud conversion (11mm)
New Cam belt
New Water Pump
New Sump
New Oil Modine
2nd hand Sti VVC heads and Cams, rebuilt with valve seats lapped and re-shimmed
Fully assembled as a long engine.
Compression ratio 8:0:1
2nd hand EJ257 block (99.5 bore) - Deglazed
New Jap spec Nitrided Crank
Forged H section Rods - ARP2000 bolts
Wossner 99.5 forged pistons
ACL race bearings (main and shell)
New HP Oil pump
Cometic Head gaskets (1.2mm)
ARP Headstud conversion (11mm)
New Cam belt
New Water Pump
New Sump
New Oil Modine
2nd hand Sti VVC heads and Cams, rebuilt with valve seats lapped and re-shimmed
Fully assembled as a long engine.
#4
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[QUOTE=oobyJu;9843770]new, used, rebuilt?[/
Possibly used and working, ie someone is stripping car for bits instead of trying to sell it as a whole
Possibly used and working, ie someone is stripping car for bits instead of trying to sell it as a whole
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#8
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Usually short engine means the block(s), pistons, rods, crank, sump ie: the bottom half of the engine, and long engine means the heads as well, including cams, covers etc, ie: all you need APART from ancillaries which can be oil, and water pumps, alternator etc etc.
Sometimes they are included in a long engine although rarely the alternator.
Sometimes they are included in a long engine although rarely the alternator.
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Put it this way. I have a PPP Hawkeye. It's currently having its internals forged and supporting mods to take it up to 450bhp+. The bill is 10k+
Power costs, as they say!
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And you should know better. RELIABLE power costs, as they say. any fool can throw 40lb of boost through a turbo charger and make 800bhp. 100 yards down the road the engine will calve itself.
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More torque is my aim, I had a hawkeye last year but put a little too much through it and started using more oil than fuel, so went and got an rs6 as an every day family car but I missed the fun of a Subaru so bought a classic as my weekend toy that has had quite alot of money spent on it engine,brakes,gearbox ect... But ultimately I always thought I would go for 2.5l lump for the torque more than anything.
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#18
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Hi there here are contact details on Neil Case@Slowboy Racing
077821 06604 and email: sales@slowboy-racing.co.uk
And if you have 2.0 engine now,i don't see any problem why you can get 2.1 stroker.
Jura
077821 06604 and email: sales@slowboy-racing.co.uk
And if you have 2.0 engine now,i don't see any problem why you can get 2.1 stroker.
Jura
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Tis ok ; the importance of reliable power is a point worth reiterating!!
People who try and do things on the cheap only end up paying more in the long run to get the damage they've caused fixed or have to sell up when they realise the real costs involved.
Ns04
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This is what people forget: often a "short" engine can seem like a right bargain, but it's the labour to fit it, buy the ancillaries and have them installed etc that costs.
There is a BIG price difference between an engine that is 500bhp capable and an installed engine with the supporting mods that will produce 500bhp (i.e. a drive in, drive out solution)
If you're starting from a WRX the costs are even higher as the gearbox will most probably shat itself when you get around the 400 ft lbs level, you'll need decent brakes (2k) if you want the best, i.e. APs and then there is the suspension 1.5k for a decent set up fitted and lazer aligned etc.
Bare in mind, my starting point was a 2.5 hawk STi PPP, to get this to a safe and reliable 450/450 car with OEM manners and drivability here's my shopping list (I won't tell you how much all the parts cost, that's a bit vulgar, but it's worth baring in mind, as an indication, that the turbo for the job alone is costing 1.5k - that's half the price of what some have asked for a short 2.5 engine!)
- Full mongoose Exhaust system
- Tubular Headers. Next Gen II spec
- APi variable rate injectors and fuel pressure regulator (Fuel lab) with a uprated (RCM?) pump
- Parallel fuel rail conversion
- SC46 billet turbo
- Supertech pistons and rings
- APi Forged rods
- Gaskets and seals
- ACL bearings
- Uprated Head stud set
- Kevlar Cambelt
- Modded oil pump
- Oil cooler
- Cosworth sump baffle
- Hybrid FMIC
- Simota Inner wing cone filter
- AP 6 speed clutch
- APi light 'wheel
- Heatproof manifold spacers
- Turbo hose set
Oh, and then there's the mapping!
The engine work (i.e. forging the internals) only amounts to about half of the cost, but all I'd end up with at that point is a bullet proof hawk that was making about 100 bhp and 100 lbs ft torque less than it was capable of. i.e. I'd have the reliability, but not the power. To get the power AND the reliability, you need all the supporting parts and that's what bumps the price up from the 3k or so just for the engine component cost to the 10k+ that a 'drive in, drive out' 450/450 conversion REALLY entails. Of course, if you can do the work yourself, there are big savings to be made.
BTW before anyone says: "you've been ripped off mate"
Here's what Scoobyclinic (known for low labour charges) ask for a "drive in, drive out" 450 conversion.
http://www.scoobyclinic.com/services...ning_sc450.htm
Ns04
Last edited by New_scooby_04; 27 January 2011 at 12:01 PM.
#24
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1.5k not enough for a std rebuild I'd suggest mate, unless you can take the engine out and put it back yourself, it would be more like 3k.
This is what people forget: often a "short" engine can seem like a right bargain, but it's the labour to fit it, buy the ancillaries and have them installed etc that costs.
If you're starting from a WRX the costs are even higher as the gearbox will most probably shat itself when you get around the 400 ft lbs level, you'll need decent brakes (2k) if you want the best, i.e. APs and then there is the suspension 1.5k for a decent set up fitted and lazer aligned etc.
Bare in mind, my starting point was a 2.5 hawk STi PPP, to get this to a safe and reliable 450/450 car with OEM manners and drivability here's my shopping list:
- Full mongoose Exhaust system
- Tubular Headers. Next Gen II spec
- APi variable rate injectors and fuel pressure regulator (Fuel lab) with a uprated (RCM?) pump
- Parallel fuel rail conversion
- SC46 billet turbo
- Supertech pistons and rings
- APi Forged rods
- Gaskets and seals
- ACL bearings
- Uprated Head stud set
- Kevlar Cambelt
- Modded oil pump
- Oil cooler
- Cosworth sump baffle
- Hybrid FMIC
- Simota Inner wing cone filter
- AP 6 speed clutch
- APi light 'wheel
- Heatproof manifold spacers
- Turbo hose set
Oh, and then there's the mapping!
The engine work (i.e. forging the internals) only amounts to about half of the cost, but all I'd end up with at that point is a bullet proof hawk that was making about 100 bhp and 100 lbs ft torque less than it was capable of. i.e. I'd have the reliability, but not the power. To get the power AND the reliability, you need all the supporting parts and that's what bumps the price up from the 3k or so just for the engine component cost to the 10k+ that a 'drive in, drive out' 450/450 conversion REALLY entails. Of course, if you can do the work yourself, there are big savings to be made.
BTW before anyone says: "you've been ripped off mate"
Here's what Scoobyclinic (known for low labour charges) ask for a "drive in, drive out" 450 conversion.
http://www.scoobyclinic.com/services...ning_sc450.htm
Ns04
This is what people forget: often a "short" engine can seem like a right bargain, but it's the labour to fit it, buy the ancillaries and have them installed etc that costs.
If you're starting from a WRX the costs are even higher as the gearbox will most probably shat itself when you get around the 400 ft lbs level, you'll need decent brakes (2k) if you want the best, i.e. APs and then there is the suspension 1.5k for a decent set up fitted and lazer aligned etc.
Bare in mind, my starting point was a 2.5 hawk STi PPP, to get this to a safe and reliable 450/450 car with OEM manners and drivability here's my shopping list:
- Full mongoose Exhaust system
- Tubular Headers. Next Gen II spec
- APi variable rate injectors and fuel pressure regulator (Fuel lab) with a uprated (RCM?) pump
- Parallel fuel rail conversion
- SC46 billet turbo
- Supertech pistons and rings
- APi Forged rods
- Gaskets and seals
- ACL bearings
- Uprated Head stud set
- Kevlar Cambelt
- Modded oil pump
- Oil cooler
- Cosworth sump baffle
- Hybrid FMIC
- Simota Inner wing cone filter
- AP 6 speed clutch
- APi light 'wheel
- Heatproof manifold spacers
- Turbo hose set
Oh, and then there's the mapping!
The engine work (i.e. forging the internals) only amounts to about half of the cost, but all I'd end up with at that point is a bullet proof hawk that was making about 100 bhp and 100 lbs ft torque less than it was capable of. i.e. I'd have the reliability, but not the power. To get the power AND the reliability, you need all the supporting parts and that's what bumps the price up from the 3k or so just for the engine component cost to the 10k+ that a 'drive in, drive out' 450/450 conversion REALLY entails. Of course, if you can do the work yourself, there are big savings to be made.
BTW before anyone says: "you've been ripped off mate"
Here's what Scoobyclinic (known for low labour charges) ask for a "drive in, drive out" 450 conversion.
http://www.scoobyclinic.com/services...ning_sc450.htm
Ns04
Hi matey,i don't know from where you have prices,but these prices i have from Neil@Slowboy Racing which is my mapper and will build my 2.1 Stroker.
Price is for £2.8k(drive in and out,including all in gaskets,seals,fluids and if you want just your std.turbo ) for 2.1 stroker,and parts will be used
ACL Big End Bearing
ACL Main bearings
Wossner Pistons
K1 Rods
14mm ARP Sutds
EJ257 Crankshaft
AVCS Heads
Cometic HG set
Same price(or similar £3k) for 2.1 stroker have TFS,drive in and drive out.....Parts i don't know what are used
And now about mine transmission/geabox i'm running 4EAT with uprated Valve Body,Mocal Oil cooler and this will hold at least 450bhp.
Syvecs ECU will be at February fitted and mapped.
Brakes still good are K-Sport 356mm at front,Tein Super Street,some ARB and droplinks.
Turbo we have 2nd hand which make 450bhp.... GT30
I don't do nothing on my own,i don't know nothing about the engine building...
Jura
Last edited by jura11; 27 January 2011 at 12:24 PM.
#25
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Hiya mate,
Don't think I'm having a pop at you here, but just using your example to illustrate how costs soon escalate and always amount to more than the engine cost alone!
ACL Big End Bearing
ACL Main bearings
Wossner Pistons
K1 Rods
14mm ARP Sutds
EJ257 Crankshaft
AVCS Heads
Cometic HG set
2.8k drive in and drive out for that little lot is a really good price
BUT
You then have the Syvecs = 1.6k fitted and mapped, so you're already near the 4.5k mark
Add on the turbo cost: Good used GT30 or similar, what are we looking at... £800 If you wanted the best MD321 or SC billet variety. You can't really scrimp on the turbo as it is kinda critical So there's 5.3k total cost
AND presumably your car already has
Uprated exhaust and headers
Uprated fuel pump
FMIC
Induction
(Looking at about 1.6k for the above lot)
So you or someone else has paid for those upgrades, The point is that they're all factors in the real overall cost of getting the car to that level!
Simimilarly we know you have:
Brakes K-Sport 356mm at front. So, about 1k there then
Tein Super Street,some ARB and droplinks. Probably another 1k there then.
Now we're up to 9k. and we've not even talked about your transmission.
The point I'm trying to make, is that the engine might cost 2.8k, but the REAL overall cost to get a car to that level of tune is much higher! I think that's what people faill to take into account.
The best thing to do is obviously to get a car with lots of the required goodies on it in the first place, which is maybe what you've done (?)
In a nutshell, my point is that there is much more in achieving a power output than just getting an engine capable of producing a power level reliably.
Best,
Ns04
Don't think I'm having a pop at you here, but just using your example to illustrate how costs soon escalate and always amount to more than the engine cost alone!
ACL Big End Bearing
ACL Main bearings
Wossner Pistons
K1 Rods
14mm ARP Sutds
EJ257 Crankshaft
AVCS Heads
Cometic HG set
2.8k drive in and drive out for that little lot is a really good price
BUT
You then have the Syvecs = 1.6k fitted and mapped, so you're already near the 4.5k mark
Add on the turbo cost: Good used GT30 or similar, what are we looking at... £800 If you wanted the best MD321 or SC billet variety. You can't really scrimp on the turbo as it is kinda critical So there's 5.3k total cost
AND presumably your car already has
Uprated exhaust and headers
Uprated fuel pump
FMIC
Induction
(Looking at about 1.6k for the above lot)
So you or someone else has paid for those upgrades, The point is that they're all factors in the real overall cost of getting the car to that level!
Simimilarly we know you have:
Brakes K-Sport 356mm at front. So, about 1k there then
Tein Super Street,some ARB and droplinks. Probably another 1k there then.
Now we're up to 9k. and we've not even talked about your transmission.
The point I'm trying to make, is that the engine might cost 2.8k, but the REAL overall cost to get a car to that level of tune is much higher! I think that's what people faill to take into account.
The best thing to do is obviously to get a car with lots of the required goodies on it in the first place, which is maybe what you've done (?)
In a nutshell, my point is that there is much more in achieving a power output than just getting an engine capable of producing a power level reliably.
Best,
Ns04
Last edited by New_scooby_04; 27 January 2011 at 03:42 PM.
#26
I have a Crawford Performance S1 based engine in my MY97WRX. I am looking to sell the whole car rather than break at the moment. I can PM more details of the cars specs if any body is interested in a project or for parts.
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