Thermostat
17 January 2011, 01:15 PM
#1
Thermostat
Worth changing? im fitting a new alloy rad, hoses and doing throttlebody bypass mod, whilst the coolant is drained is it worth replacing the thermostat for a new OE one whilst im there? or a cooler running one?
Car has done 88k and is standard power until remap later this year.
Car has done 88k and is standard power until remap later this year.
17 January 2011, 01:28 PM
#4
Worth changing? im fitting a new alloy rad, hoses and doing throttlebody bypass mod, whilst the coolant is drained is it worth replacing the thermostat for a new OE one whilst im there? or a cooler running one?
Car has done 88k and is standard power until remap later this year.
Car has done 88k and is standard power until remap later this year.
17 January 2011, 02:30 PM
#6
Deff. look at a new stat...One that fails and stays open, not closed. The Z/S one and Grimspeed one both do...
Grimspeed one is only $50, looks like the seal they provide is a bit crap though...
http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=162
Grimspeed one is only $50, looks like the seal they provide is a bit crap though...
http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=162
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18 January 2011, 01:21 PM
#10
Also i used carplan blue antifreeze last time but local place only stocks comma
They have
http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/300
Or
http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/353
Are these suitable? subaru near me use shell but dont have stock to sell me
They have
http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/300
Or
http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/353
Are these suitable? subaru near me use shell but dont have stock to sell me
18 January 2011, 03:14 PM
#13
You can use virtually ANY decent modern anti-freeze, just DON'T mix the types. It can cause sludging and waterway blockage.
Mine came from a local factors, not dear, suitable for an alloy engine and with corrosion inhibitor.
So either of the above would do.
Mine came from a local factors, not dear, suitable for an alloy engine and with corrosion inhibitor.
So either of the above would do.
18 January 2011, 05:59 PM
#15
Be careful when buying the pattern thermostats,when i was buying,some of the pattern ones are smaller than the genuine one and also the seal can differ in thickness,some pattern ones do not come with a new seal either.
i opted for the genuine one and seal for £25,seems pedantic but it wasnt a job i wanted to do twice for the sake of £10 difference
and yes,the new OAT stuff can froth up in classics and cause issues,if you have a 2001 onwards impreza,you should be o.k with the later antifreeze
i opted for the genuine one and seal for £25,seems pedantic but it wasnt a job i wanted to do twice for the sake of £10 difference
and yes,the new OAT stuff can froth up in classics and cause issues,if you have a 2001 onwards impreza,you should be o.k with the later antifreeze
18 January 2011, 06:00 PM
#16
18 January 2011, 06:05 PM
#18
2 options,
1.retain fluid lost when removing the pipes/stat etc, i also removed the rad,found it easier to then
2. buy the proper stuff and re-do the antifreeze at a later date,local halfords ?
1.retain fluid lost when removing the pipes/stat etc, i also removed the rad,found it easier to then
2. buy the proper stuff and re-do the antifreeze at a later date,local halfords ?
18 January 2011, 06:10 PM
#19
I looked at halfords antifreeze but it states
Silicate (IAT)based Standard technology
Subaru recommend an anti freeze that is free from amine/phosphates, silicate and nitrite.
18 January 2011, 07:13 PM
#21
Cheers located a comma stockist now that i didnt know even existed, only 6 miles away so will go in tomorrow.
If anyone is after a decent alloy rad coolpartsuk on ebay supplied mine and its fantastic, loads better than the standard rad!
If anyone is after a decent alloy rad coolpartsuk on ebay supplied mine and its fantastic, loads better than the standard rad!
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