OIL PRESURE / TEMPS FITTING KIT ?
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OIL PRESURE / TEMPS FITTING KIT ?
Am i right in thinking that this will do both as above, for my presure and temp gauges ?
What else with regards to switches will i need and can i use a switch from the engine.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-OIL-PRE...item51966c4245
What else with regards to switches will i need and can i use a switch from the engine.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-OIL-PRE...item51966c4245
#2
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On myn i put the original pressure switch in the housing with the after market sender and then put the temperature switch in the bung over cylinder No3 as you need the oil flowing past the temp swiych not at a dead end which ironically is perfect for the pressure switch so works bang tidy
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right the original presure switch is behind the alternater right ? and that fits to the braided pipe... then the braided pipe goes were the switch went at the alternater ? now what about the oil temp switch
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what about the temp sender switch were is that ? or the the scoobys not have one and i have to buy a after market switch for the fitting kit ?
So i will have the oil presure switch and the oil temp switch in the fitting kit
So i will have the oil presure switch and the oil temp switch in the fitting kit
Last edited by NEILB1; 06 December 2010 at 10:14 PM.
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ok there is the brained line screwed into the block, in the ebay pic so the oil presure switch is screwed into the other end and the temp switch at the side of it, can you see,? is this what you ment sorry
Last edited by NEILB1; 06 December 2010 at 10:22 PM.
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#8
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In the pic its show's the original pressure switch which will put the light on the dash out and the after market pressure sender in the side and then you take the bung out of the block over by cylinder number 3 and put that other smaller union into it and then screw a after market temp sender into that.
Last edited by prodriverules; 06 December 2010 at 10:25 PM.
#11
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Let's make this clear:
You need NO extra bits, no braided lines, nowt!
You screw the sender for the PRESSURE gauge into the block where the oil pressure switch WAS, behind the alternator, and do away with the switch.
You screw the sender for the oil temperature into the tapping above cylinder No3. That MAY need an adaptor.
That's all.
You need NO extra bits, no braided lines, nowt!
You screw the sender for the PRESSURE gauge into the block where the oil pressure switch WAS, behind the alternator, and do away with the switch.
You screw the sender for the oil temperature into the tapping above cylinder No3. That MAY need an adaptor.
That's all.
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In the pic its show's the original pressure switch which will put the light on the dash out and the after market pressure sender in the side and then you take the bung out of the block over by cylinder number 3 and put that other smaller union into it and then screw a after market temp sender into that.
Let's make this clear:
You need NO extra bits, no braided lines, nowt!
You screw the sender for the PRESSURE gauge into the block where the oil pressure switch WAS, behind the alternator, and do away with the switch.
You screw the sender for the oil temperature into the tapping above cylinder No3. That MAY need an adaptor.
That's all.
You need NO extra bits, no braided lines, nowt!
You screw the sender for the PRESSURE gauge into the block where the oil pressure switch WAS, behind the alternator, and do away with the switch.
You screw the sender for the oil temperature into the tapping above cylinder No3. That MAY need an adaptor.
That's all.
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If you decide to fit a oil temp, and a oil pressure gauge, while keeping the factory oil pressure warning light working you have only one option IMHO.(Well 2 actually, but the second one will have you soldering wires to lengthen the stock pressure switch wiring)
Remove the stock pressure sender underneath the alternator.
Screw in the Ebay hose and T-piece there, and mount your original pressure sender, and the gauge pressure sender into the other end.You do not have flow there,just pressure so you can not use this method to get a accurate temperature signal.
You fit the other part from this kit (the male threaded part, with the female threads inside into the block near the turbo(there is a blanking plug there stock), and fit the gauge temperature sender there,as that location has actual oil flow (thus giving acurate temperature readings)
Most pressure senders are quite bulky, and usually need some form of hose to fit, as both locations (underneath the turbo, and underneath the alternator) are almost always too cramped to fit the pressure sender directly.
Remove the stock pressure sender underneath the alternator.
Screw in the Ebay hose and T-piece there, and mount your original pressure sender, and the gauge pressure sender into the other end.You do not have flow there,just pressure so you can not use this method to get a accurate temperature signal.
You fit the other part from this kit (the male threaded part, with the female threads inside into the block near the turbo(there is a blanking plug there stock), and fit the gauge temperature sender there,as that location has actual oil flow (thus giving acurate temperature readings)
Most pressure senders are quite bulky, and usually need some form of hose to fit, as both locations (underneath the turbo, and underneath the alternator) are almost always too cramped to fit the pressure sender directly.
Last edited by Dutch Scooby lover; 07 December 2010 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Spelling corrections, and added the last paragraph.
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But it may not fit there.
Have had a couple of gauge setups'and only the current Stack oen has a small enough sensor to still enable it fitting under the alternator, without the wiring being jammed between the sender and the alternator (with a new stock length belt, at the time)
Have had a couple of gauge setups'and only the current Stack oen has a small enough sensor to still enable it fitting under the alternator, without the wiring being jammed between the sender and the alternator (with a new stock length belt, at the time)
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If you decide to fit a oil temp, and a oil pressure gauge, while keeping the factory oil pressure warning light working you have only one option IMHO.(Well 2 actually, but the second one will have you soldering wires to lengthen the stock pressure switch wiring)
Remove the stock pressure sender underneath the alternator.
Screw in the Ebay hose and T-piece there, and mount your original pressure sender, and the gauge pressure sender into the other end.You do not have flow there,just pressure so you can not use this method to get a accurate temperature signal.
You fit the other part from this kit (the male threaded part, with the female threads inside into the block near the turbo(there is a blanking plug there stock), and fit the gauge temperature sender there,as that location has actual oil flow (thus giving acurate temperature readings)
Most pressure senders are quite bulky, and usually need some form of hose to fit, as both locations (underneath the turbo, and underneath the alternator) are almost always too cramped to fit the pressure sender directly.
Remove the stock pressure sender underneath the alternator.
Screw in the Ebay hose and T-piece there, and mount your original pressure sender, and the gauge pressure sender into the other end.You do not have flow there,just pressure so you can not use this method to get a accurate temperature signal.
You fit the other part from this kit (the male threaded part, with the female threads inside into the block near the turbo(there is a blanking plug there stock), and fit the gauge temperature sender there,as that location has actual oil flow (thus giving acurate temperature readings)
Most pressure senders are quite bulky, and usually need some form of hose to fit, as both locations (underneath the turbo, and underneath the alternator) are almost always too cramped to fit the pressure sender directly.
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@ Neil, a aftermarket oil temperature (and pressure gauge) is normally sold with it's own sensor, so when you buy the gauges new they come as a complete ready to fit kit.
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My Omori fitted, until I had to fit a new belt ,then the wiring was tight in betweeen the gauge and the alternator.STRI has the same size,and some have an even larger sender.
I would rather buy something like the ebay kit now, and have no prioblems with fitting any type of sender
I would rather buy something like the ebay kit now, and have no prioblems with fitting any type of sender
#25
I used the ebay kit, and have original and aftermarket sender unit for pressure coming off of that block thing, mounted in the original position by the alternator.
Took a little fiddling, but does work
I have SPA gauges, as they do oil pressure and temp in one gauge, and you can wire output alarm lights for them very easily (you just buy the warning LEd's off the bay as well, cost next to nothin)
Took a little fiddling, but does work
I have SPA gauges, as they do oil pressure and temp in one gauge, and you can wire output alarm lights for them very easily (you just buy the warning LEd's off the bay as well, cost next to nothin)
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Do you have any pics, or can you descibe what is actually included.
Do you have anything more then just the gauges , like wiring or other things??
If you need a sender for temperature:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTO-GAUGE-OIL...87444284897903
If you need a pressure sender:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTO-GAUGE-OIL...07361655777352
As you can see the pressure sender is quite bulky, thus you may need the Ebay adapter's you mentioned above.
Do you have anything more then just the gauges , like wiring or other things??
If you need a sender for temperature:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTO-GAUGE-OIL...87444284897903
If you need a pressure sender:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTO-GAUGE-OIL...07361655777352
As you can see the pressure sender is quite bulky, thus you may need the Ebay adapter's you mentioned above.
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You're welcome.
Bit of a plus these gauges tbh, the may be cheap,but at least thesenders are cheap and easily available.
I fubared the wheel speed sensor of my Stack dash, and they wanted 240€ for a new one.
Bit of a plus these gauges tbh, the may be cheap,but at least thesenders are cheap and easily available.
I fubared the wheel speed sensor of my Stack dash, and they wanted 240€ for a new one.