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FOOT PEDALS CONVERSION QUESTION...???

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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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Exclamation FOOT PEDALS CONVERSION QUESTION...???

I have an STi 5 and I find the OEM STi pedal covers far too wide, and my feet sometimes get caught underneath the sides, or one foot obstructs another, etc., etc...

Now I've driven a Blobeye and it has much narrower pedal covers and I find them absolutely perfect - no problems whatsoever!

Can the Blob's full pedal set ('arms' and covers) be substituted wholesale... Or failing that, will just its narrower pedal covers fit on the STi 5's existing pedal 'arms'?

Cheers, John.
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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No-one?
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:06 AM
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Tough one i think Joz.

One i've never thought about.

Would think you would have to change the whole assembly.
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 10:03 AM
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Just found this:-

New Age pedal covers

So it would seem the covers do swap over okay... But I really wanted to use the New Age's arms, etc (if possible) as well, as I also happen to have a sticking clutch arm. So wanted to attempt to cheaply fix that too (and therefore potentially kill two birds with one stone), by getting either of these, instead:-

New Age pedal covers + arms #1

New Age pedal covers + arms #2


Anyone else know if it's possible?

Last edited by joz8968; Nov 14, 2010 at 10:10 AM.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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Anyone?
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 08:26 PM
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Alright John does your pedal stick half mast sometimes then does it?
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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Yes mate - really pees me off. Clutch still works fine... just feels like a new clutch with a low biting point lol.

When it happens and I'm not using it, I hook my toes underneath, pull upwards, so as to cause it to 'unspring' from that stuck middle-low position, and it returns to the top where it should be.

Drives me bandy!

My previous 1993 WRX suffered no such maladies - and the pedal covers weren't an issue either!

Last edited by joz8968; Nov 16, 2010 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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PDR, I take it you're suffering the same, right?
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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I suffered this after changing my slave and master cylinder and found the only way to get rid was to open bleeder then push stroke and shut off bleeder and retract pedal very very slowly about 20 times which made all well and there wasn't any air either so no air lock,just a thought though worth trying as i tried an awful lot of other ways because it really did get on my nerves lol
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Right, so rather than being a mech. issue with the clutch arm itself, or the spring, etc., it's more likely to be air in the system, and therefore a fault with either the slave or master cyl.?
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Could very well be John,myn just needed bleeding like that and it was fine then but it is very tedious work bleeding it like this but it done the trick for me.
I would try a bleed first before anything else as its just time and abit of fluid,tbo i don't think mine even needed the cylinders as i only changed them when i changed fluid and couldn't stop that free play at the top of the pedal and thought the seals had gone but changed the cylinders and still free play at the top
Which made me try different ways of bleeding and hay presto that worked.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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Cheers - another job for API to look into after my engine mods...
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by joz8968
Cheers - another job for API to look into after my engine mods...
No worries John im looking forward to seeing the results of the mods
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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Don't say that - I'm feeling the pressure for my motor to 'deliver the numbers' now! lol
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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Yes, the clutch and brake pedal covers are interchangeable between classic and newage. IIRC, if you want to fit the newage accelerator pedal, you'll need to swap the complete arm over.

If your clutch pedal is 'sticking' halfway up the pedal's travel when releasing it, you may want to check and adjust the free play of the pedal itself, in the pedal box (12mm locknut and adjuster rod) - If there's too much freeplay, the cam/spring return mechanism in the pedal box will not act correctly, and the pedal will not return to it's normal 'at rest' position unaided. Have a look at the mechanism in the pedal box and you should SWIM If adjusting, make sure you leave some freeplay in it, otherwise you may slip the clutch.

Last edited by FB Tuning; Nov 16, 2010 at 09:27 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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Ah many thanks Richard - that's really helped. Shall mention it to Dave soon. Made me a lot happier now.

Richard, will the New Age clutch and brakes arms also swap over i.e. junk all 3 Classic arms/pedals for the New Age ones?


(And yes, you're right about the New Age accelerator pedal having to be swapped over wholesale )

Last edited by joz8968; Nov 16, 2010 at 09:45 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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There's nowt wrong with the pedal arrangement John. It's the size of your feet!

Try driving bare foot!
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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lol
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by The Seer
There's nowt wrong with the pedal arrangement John. It's the size of your feet!

Try driving bare foot!
Don't take the p1ss right, but i've got a pair of boxing boots and they are **** hot to drive in.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 11:47 AM
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I don't like driving in soft shoes like trainers (I hate trainers, unless doing sports... which I defo don't! lol)

I like boots, weirdly enough. Always wear boots (not wellies ) when driving...

I'm 'only' size 9, you cheeky sod Mark!

Last edited by joz8968; Nov 21, 2010 at 11:48 AM.
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