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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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Smile engine misfire

I have a 1999 Turbo 2000 that has developed a misfire/cutting out that comes and goes. It is between 1500 and 4000rpm and is not always there. If I keep my foot down and once the revs go past 4000 it clears. The misfire is all cylinders together, but only very briefly when under load. It does not backfire. The starting and behaviour at idle is fine. The car is totally standard. Using V-power fuel.
Any ideas please?

cheers

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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 11:00 PM
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Sounds like coilpack or spark plugs
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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Have you done a fault code check yet?

When where the plugs last changed?

Makes a change to deal with a totally stock car.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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Just had the car 2 weeks was running great, the misfire was more like a hesitation very subtle and did not really notice or worry then. I routinely had plugs, leads and Mobil 1 Oil changed at a garage, I supplied the oil, leads (halfords) and NGK plugs. The car was still OK after this, but 3 days later the problem become more obvious. Starting and idle is still OK.
Will halfords leads be any good?
I get a 'check engine' light when the ignition is on, but it goes once it has started I have no warning lights at all. Don't have the kit to do fault codes. I would have to take it to Subaru Ashburton for any diagnostics.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nitroxat
Just had the car 2 weeks was running great, the misfire was more like a hesitation very subtle and did not really notice or worry then. I routinely had plugs, leads and Mobil 1 Oil changed at a garage, I supplied the oil, leads (halfords) and NGK plugs. The car was still OK after this, but 3 days later the problem become more obvious. Starting and idle is still OK.
Will halfords leads be any good?
I get a 'check engine' light when the ignition is on, but it goes once it has started I have no warning lights at all. Don't have the kit to do fault codes. I would have to take it to Subaru Ashburton for any diagnostics.
You can do a fault code check yourself. All Classics have the test/reset wires fitted. See here and here. Remove the lower drivers dash and all will be come clear.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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sounds like the same symptom with the CEL light i had, it was a faulty knock sensor that caused that.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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Cheers great info, I will do a fault code tomorrow.
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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I connected the green connectors, and then turned on and it whirred and realay noises. Engine check light was on. Turned off, and then connected the blacks. Turned on and the check light flashed slowly and evenly. Have I got it right to assume no fault?

Cheers
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nitroxat
I connected the green connectors, and then turned on and it whirred and realay noises. Engine check light was on. Turned off, and then connected the blacks. Turned on and the check light flashed slowly and evenly. Have I got it right to assume no fault?

Cheers
As long as you had 'only' the blacks connected and not the greens at the same time, then yes a steady on/off/on/off is all good.
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 12:49 PM
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Try this site , it will tell you about the codes


http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/error_codes.asp.htm
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by drfeelgood
Try this site , it will tell you about the codes


http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/error_codes.asp.htm
Read the thread mate.

As per post#5.
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