Heat wrapping ? to do or not?
29 September 2010, 10:32 PM
#4
Just ask the BOB's or Harvey and other members about this....
Your gain maybe will be slightly lower temp and maybe few BHP(but without the Dyno print out before and after,its just the theory).
Try this thread with its same question
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...g-exhaust.html
Your gain maybe will be slightly lower temp and maybe few BHP(but without the Dyno print out before and after,its just the theory).
Try this thread with its same question
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...g-exhaust.html
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29 September 2010, 11:06 PM
#10
Hi mate i think medium blanket will be fine T3/T4 or try this http://www.owendevelopments.co.uk/pr...bId=-1&imgId=b
and i brought this http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/p...ecnumber=24161
and i brought this http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/p...ecnumber=24161
30 September 2010, 08:04 PM
#13
The advantages are that the turbo warms up quicker from the cruise or tootling about and you greatly reduce underbonnet temperatures.
Think of the exhuast gases as thick oil and you will realise that hot exhaust gas retains more energy and flows more easily.
Wrapping the exhaust system after the downpipe will serve no purpose other than use you your excess stock of heat wrap and the only real advantage will be that it keeps you out of the pub for three hours.
See the link to another thread on Scoobynet recently.
I did a guide to heat wrapping and will see if I can find it.
30 September 2010, 09:04 PM
#14
With apologies for thread hijack...my oem twinscoll headers and up-pipe (with oem heat shields) will be off the car in week's time. I guess, from this thread, it would it be worth me hacking the heatshields off and wrapping them before they're refitted?
01 October 2010, 12:53 AM
#16
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, economical.
Here are the instructions I have made up for this wrap which I sell at £55 per 50' X 2" roll.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions exactly.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
The DEI heat wrap has a stitching down each side to show the amount of overlap required and you should follow the overlap guide stitching where possible. This is not possible on the inside of tight bends.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set the tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the fabric to dampen it. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time.
The rolls come in 50 foot by 2" .
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tie at the end and then every 3 or 4 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Happy wrapping.
If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards,
Harvey Smith.
We have just removed a set of headers and uppipe from a car that we wrapped over three years ago. The wrap is in very good condition. Two small areas need touched up where there has been some physical damage from road debris, a lump of wood or a bolder perhaps. So wrapped properly it can last for years.
__________________
Here are the instructions I have made up for this wrap which I sell at £55 per 50' X 2" roll.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions exactly.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
The DEI heat wrap has a stitching down each side to show the amount of overlap required and you should follow the overlap guide stitching where possible. This is not possible on the inside of tight bends.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set the tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the fabric to dampen it. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time.
The rolls come in 50 foot by 2" .
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tie at the end and then every 3 or 4 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Happy wrapping.
If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards,
Harvey Smith.
We have just removed a set of headers and uppipe from a car that we wrapped over three years ago. The wrap is in very good condition. Two small areas need touched up where there has been some physical damage from road debris, a lump of wood or a bolder perhaps. So wrapped properly it can last for years.
__________________
01 October 2010, 07:39 AM
#17
Just to add, from time to time you may need to change direction. This is best achieved by turning the wrap over through 180 degrees and the tightnes of the twist or distance over which the twist is achieved will determine the degree of direction change. An alternative would be to start with a new length of wrap but keeping the wrap in as long a length as possible has several advantages, particularly if you keep it tight and give it a good pull every couple of turns.
02 October 2010, 09:58 AM
#19
Assuming you provided your headers and uppipe with the heat shields off I would want £95 for DEI heat wrapping plus £12.50 for returning. They would be with me for 2 to 4 days depending on the workload when they arrived.
If heat shields are still attached add a tenner.
If heat shields are still attached add a tenner.
...I'll be in touch, and will probably co-ordinate Len at Subaru4You to get them to you in about 10 day's time 
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