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Old 25 August 2010, 08:49 PM
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Skeg Vegas v1 STI
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Default millers race oil?

does anyone use millers race oil?? is it any good? also im after a fuel filter? whats the best sort to get or will any1 do?? Thanks in advance!!
Old 25 August 2010, 08:55 PM
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TonyBurns
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What viscosity is it?

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Old 25 August 2010, 09:13 PM
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got my millers and fuel filter off ebay 57 notes deliver to my door
Old 25 August 2010, 09:58 PM
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rogos
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i use millers cfs 10/60 mate i have to use a thick grade due to running larger bearing clearances, but never the less any grade of millers cfs oils is good and their cfs range is top of the top.
Old 25 August 2010, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Skeg Vegas v1 STI
does anyone use millers race oil?? is it any good? also im after a fuel filter? whats the best sort to get or will any1 do?? Thanks in advance!!
Look at the Opie Oils site. They'll supply the full CFS range and filters for the car.

JohnD
Old 25 August 2010, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Skeg Vegas v1 STI
does anyone use millers race oil?? is it any good? also im after a fuel filter? whats the best sort to get or will any1 do?? Thanks in advance!!
OE fuel filter from scoobyworld, nothing to gain from getting any other.

And with the amount of crud, mineral, synthetic and semi-synthetic that has been pumped through your engine in the last um-teen years you are as well filling her with XSS 10w-40 Semi Synthetic @ £30 twice a year than using CFS 10w-40 Competition Full Synthetic @ £60 once a year
Old 26 August 2010, 09:07 AM
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Except XSS changed twice a year still does not do as good a job as CFS changed once a year. Semi synthetics are ok, but they do not do as good a job as a proper quality synthetic.

To the op, Millers CFS is very good.

Cheers

Guy
Old 26 August 2010, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by oilman
Except XSS changed twice a year still does not do as good a job as CFS changed once a year. Semi synthetics are ok, but they do not do as good a job as a proper quality synthetic.

To the op, Millers CFS is very good.

Cheers

Guy
If they are the facts, then i stand corrected

I was told a long time ago that you cannot take 'full' advantage of fully synthetic on an older engine, and that an intrim oil change with a good quality semi-synthetic would be 'as good'. It also has the added benifit of introducing a 6 monthly service routine which can only be a good thing for a 17 yo motor. Just the way i've been brought up
Old 26 August 2010, 12:22 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean by not taking full advantage, if it's because older engines generally don't rev as highly, or they use more oil or whatever reason it is, a better oil is a better oil. As you said, you were told that a long time ago and its probably based on out of date reasoning
Old 26 August 2010, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by oilman
I'm not sure what you mean by not taking full advantage, if it's because older engines generally don't rev as highly, or they use more oil or whatever reason it is, a better oil is a better oil. As you said, you were told that a long time ago and its probably based on out of date reasoning
A little bit of research shows you may of hit the nail on the head. Thanks for the nudge

"Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the old and busted concepts

For the longest time, I had this to say about mixing mineral and synthetic oils:

* If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. It's wise to use a flushing oil first (see below).
* If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
* Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.

Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the new hotness

That's the thing with progress - stuff becomes out-of-date. Fortunately for you, dear reader, the web is a great place to keep things up-to-date, so here's the current thinking on the subject of mixing mineral and synthetic oils. This information is based on the answer to a technical question posed on the Shell Oil website.
There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synthetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products."
Old 26 August 2010, 04:44 PM
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Skeg Vegas v1 STI
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okay theanks for the info guys. Ive been running it on semi synthetic so do you think I should swap straight to the millers fully synthetic.

Oilman, i've been lookin at the service packs, do you get a proper subaru oil filter? how do i get a discount?
Old 26 August 2010, 05:04 PM
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You are absolutely fine to go straight to the full synthetic.

When you register on the website, there is a dropdown menu of the clubs we support. Select Scoobynet from there, put your username or member number in the next box and then complete the registration. When you look at the site then, you should see the members prices above the normal prices. You pay the members prices, which include the 10% discount.

The filters meet all the Subaru OEM specs and we have sold loads without problem. If you've been reading that thread about the pink filters, I wouldn't get sucked in. The UFI and K&N filters we sell for Imprezas are absolutely fine.

Cheers

Tim
Old 27 August 2010, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by oilman
You are absolutely fine to go straight to the full synthetic.

When you register on the website, there is a dropdown menu of the clubs we support. Select Scoobynet from there, put your username or member number in the next box and then complete the registration. When you look at the site then, you should see the members prices above the normal prices. You pay the members prices, which include the 10% discount.

The filters meet all the Subaru OEM specs and we have sold loads without problem. If you've been reading that thread about the pink filters, I wouldn't get sucked in. The UFI and K&N filters we sell for Imprezas are absolutely fine.

Cheers

Tim
Thanks again, thats solved that then!
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