Is my car running hot?
And what temerature should the fan kick in?
Just finished replacing the radiator. I followed all the instructions and left it running, and waited and waited, but the fan never kicked in
The Defi water temperature gauge said 94 degrees. Oil temperature was similar.
been out in it twice since, again it reached 94-95 degrees, but no sign of the fan starting
Is this normal? Is there any way I can TEST the fan? Or whatever controls it?
It SMELLS hot too.....like something boiled over on a hob, the guy at the recycling place remarked on it too.
TIA
Just finished replacing the radiator. I followed all the instructions and left it running, and waited and waited, but the fan never kicked in

The Defi water temperature gauge said 94 degrees. Oil temperature was similar.
been out in it twice since, again it reached 94-95 degrees, but no sign of the fan starting

Is this normal? Is there any way I can TEST the fan? Or whatever controls it?
It SMELLS hot too.....like something boiled over on a hob, the guy at the recycling place remarked on it too.

TIA
I don't know whose instructions you've followed replacing the coolant but I wouldn't allow the engine to get really hot with the pressure cap off. Have you turned the heater control in the cabin fully up and otherwise ruled out any airlocks?
Standard ECU will start the fan if the coolant temperature exceeds 96 celsius, so if you're hitting 94-95, no, it isn't quite hot enough and thus the lack of fan is legitimately explicable.
You can test the fan (and control systems) by putting the ECU into test mode (connect green plugs, turn ignition on). You should see the fan cycling on and off every four seconds or so. If you don't start at the fuse, and then work forward (listen for the relays clicking) until you find the reason why it isn't working.
Correct running coolant temperature on these is around 85 celsius in current weather when the car's moving. It shouldn't exceed 97 under normal usage as the fan will immediately bring it back down. It it's running consistently higher than 90 then I would suspect something isn't quite right with your rad/coolant replacement. Is the header tank full brim full (when cold) and the system pressurising as it warms up?
Oil temperature in the mid 90's sounds normal though, and if there was anything seriously wrong with the coolant system, your oil temps will suffer as well. Ergo it doesn't sound like there's anything critically wrong.
Standard ECU will start the fan if the coolant temperature exceeds 96 celsius, so if you're hitting 94-95, no, it isn't quite hot enough and thus the lack of fan is legitimately explicable.
You can test the fan (and control systems) by putting the ECU into test mode (connect green plugs, turn ignition on). You should see the fan cycling on and off every four seconds or so. If you don't start at the fuse, and then work forward (listen for the relays clicking) until you find the reason why it isn't working.
Correct running coolant temperature on these is around 85 celsius in current weather when the car's moving. It shouldn't exceed 97 under normal usage as the fan will immediately bring it back down. It it's running consistently higher than 90 then I would suspect something isn't quite right with your rad/coolant replacement. Is the header tank full brim full (when cold) and the system pressurising as it warms up?
Oil temperature in the mid 90's sounds normal though, and if there was anything seriously wrong with the coolant system, your oil temps will suffer as well. Ergo it doesn't sound like there's anything critically wrong.
Last edited by Splitpin; Jun 23, 2010 at 06:56 PM.
Thanks for the replies lads. It hasn't reached 97 yet, the gauge was sitting BELOW half way from 90 to 100.
Oil temperatures haven't been anything but normal and even when it DID get hot, as soon as the car was moving, the water temperature went back to 84/85.
I'l keep my eye on it.
It's running a LINK ecu, so I don't know if putting it into test mode will work?
I didn't let it get too hot with the pressure cap off, just enough for the thermostat to open and allow coolant to circulate. As soon as it did, I topped up and closed off. And yes, I've seen that it blows hot in the cabin.
Coolant is now full to the brim in the header tank and half way in the expansion chamber.
It will be re-checked tomorrow morning stone cold.
Oil temperatures haven't been anything but normal and even when it DID get hot, as soon as the car was moving, the water temperature went back to 84/85.
I'l keep my eye on it.
It's running a LINK ecu, so I don't know if putting it into test mode will work?
I didn't let it get too hot with the pressure cap off, just enough for the thermostat to open and allow coolant to circulate. As soon as it did, I topped up and closed off. And yes, I've seen that it blows hot in the cabin.
Coolant is now full to the brim in the header tank and half way in the expansion chamber.
It will be re-checked tomorrow morning stone cold.
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From: hudds or the nurburgring ;)
when my top hose went last week i had the opposite, fans came on and would not go off, had to re blead the system as looked like no coolant when started again, fnas kick in early if stood still.

I know very little about the Link ECU but would doubt it has a test mode in the same manner the OE ECU does. Similarly there's also no guarantee that its fan triggers are the same as the standard box.
However, if you have got a Link, have you got the hand commander for it? If so I wouldn't be too surprised to find that you can either alter the fan start/stop temps - making them trigger at a lower coolant temp, or possibly even find a direct manual "on"/test mode that will allow you to test it all out directly.
Sounds from what you're saying that things are running within normal parameters though.
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Sorry splitpin, I forgot about posting mods. It won't happen again, I promise
I don't have a hand commander, no, but it's going to Darlington in July for it's final remap, so I'll ask Bob if he can verify they are/aren't working, and meanwhile, keep an eye on temperatures. I've still got to wait to go over 4000 rpm.
I never had this before I put that bloody Defi in, the OE gauge just was "in the middle"
And still is
Could be the bigger motor, dunx, but I'd have thought it would trigger the fans?

I don't have a hand commander, no, but it's going to Darlington in July for it's final remap, so I'll ask Bob if he can verify they are/aren't working, and meanwhile, keep an eye on temperatures. I've still got to wait to go over 4000 rpm.
I never had this before I put that bloody Defi in, the OE gauge just was "in the middle"
And still is
Could be the bigger motor, dunx, but I'd have thought it would trigger the fans?
I think it's that the Defi is more accurate. I mean the OE gauge has cold W--A--R--M and hot, and no markings as to ACTUAL temeperature.
I'm not worried any more, but it's still making the cooking smell. Probably the anti-freeze that dribbled onto the turbo as I filled it, just a few ccs, but it will now be gassing. If it hasn't worn off in a few days, I might worry.........
I'm not worried any more, but it's still making the cooking smell. Probably the anti-freeze that dribbled onto the turbo as I filled it, just a few ccs, but it will now be gassing. If it hasn't worn off in a few days, I might worry.........
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From: @Junc 12, M40 Warwicksh; 01926 614522 CV33 9PL -Use 9GX for Satnav. South Mids Alcatek ECu dealer
Defi's are anything but accurate mate. Ask the weatherman, he'd have a closer guess at it than a defi would.
David
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