WRXXX

i am almost at a loss to explain this,


its a uk turbo 97 and engine was getting so hot that i couldnt put a finger on it for 2 secs with out burning, so hot that one of the rubber hoses touching the block starts to burn and let off smoke and burning rubber smell everywhere, and the temp gauge showed all is ok.

top rad hose boiling and bottom rad hose cool.

ive took rad off and poured water in it, no blockages,

ive took thermostat off and poured boiling water on it, it opened up all the way.

ive took the metal water tank off and checked all outlets , no blockages there but one of the pipes only lets water in, nothing comes out, its like a one way pipe, ive circled this below - is this supposed to be like this and does it go to the expansion tank or radiator?




then ive poured water into the the fat radiator hose that goes into the block, it poured out of the other side where the thermostat goes.

i also put water in the other 2 pipes that come off the header tank, one for turbo and one into the block - again the water came back out from the bottom of the block,

the header tank is removed in this pic



when i took the bottom radiator hose off i got clean water from the engine side and rusty water from the radiator, could this be something?

any help would be appreciated

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

well for starters mate it sounds like u havent had a anti-freeze change for ages and the anti corrosion inhibators have broken down causing major corrision in the block and the radiator but if i had to hazard aguess id say your radiator isnt flowing very well.Ryan

WRXXX

ive had the rad off and checked, it flows fine no probs at all, ive baught the car recently am it definately hasnt been looked after

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

just cause the water flows out when you poor some in there doesnt mean its flowing efficently enough to cool the engine,u could do with getting it flow tested cause we had 1 in the garage awhile back and thought that the rad was fine when putting a hose pipe through it and then had it flow tested to find that it was only about half effective and it could be the heater matrix blocked might pay to get some forte cooling system flush and get that horrible corrosion out mate.Ryan

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Your radiator could be failing/failed and its not cooling sufficiently, and tbh your best going to a garage with this, these things are hard to sort over the net, where as a mechanic will probably tell you in 5 mins whats up with your car.

Tony

super_ted

iTrader: (30)

Ive not had the chance to look at a scooby water pump yet, but a clio i had awhile ago, with bad cooling issues such as you'res, had plastic impellers on the pump, so as it got old they got brittle and slowly broke off over time, thus reducing the circulation. Replacements now have metal impellers.
Its just a thought but maybe worth considering. Im sure someone will be along shortly to confirm if they are plastic or metal on scoobs.

dj219957

water pump is a good suggestion...i think they are metal but can corrode/fail

gallois

if top hose is hot, bottom is cool, then theres no flow, as you've eliminated rad, hoses, thermostat (although putting it in boiling water just proves it opens, not at what temperature). The opening temp should be around 75deg c, use a thermometer and check it opens when it should, if that is ok, then theres only one more thing it can be, and you've already suggested it, the water pump.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

But could it be an air lock?

tathan

could be water pump. two main failure modes - if they're plastic they come to bits (and some aftermarket ones might be) or the impeller eventually comes loose on the shaft and just freewheels.

WRXXX

thanks for the help guys,

i will get the rad flow tested to be sure , will also replace the thermostat today, again to be sure,

i will try to check the waterpump myslef and will take it to a garage tommorow

i will put everything back together today and want to ensure there is no air lock,

i have read some other threads on bleeding but they are not clear on when the car should be running ,

so how do i fill with cooland and ensure there is no air lock, and at what point exactly is the car turned on.

any help will be appreciated

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Have a look at my thread: https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-tomorrow.html

Ignore the reference to "collant" and read the advice. Some good ones.

I went with filling via the larger pipe on top of the header tank, and it SEEMS to have worked, but you DO have to take your time. I used a litre jug, half-full and a funnel shoved down the pipe and trickled the coolant in so it NEVER "glugged" in the funnel. Took me over half an hour and a bad back to put 5 litres in

roydenw1

Some how, im now the unlucky owner of this vehicle..Although i had better point out that it wasn't purchased from WRXXX.
Just interested to know what else you found wrong with it...
It is P439 TUG?? blue wagon...blue dump, silver decals? i can tell by the dodgy maf hose that dont reach the bolt holes lol.
I just had to get another clutch and gearbox in it
Did you try the water pump, because thats my next job.
Or do you know something i need to
Roy

roydenw1

I better also mention that this is an intermitant overheating problem now, i have a water pump to go on, but AG Motors have the car at the minuite fitting new clutch and gearbox so its going to have to wait.
When i replaced the coolant it was, again as you mentioned Rusty.
It seems like the problems you encountered with it have been vastly reduced.
You say in a previous post, That it ran badly and missed, struggles uphill etc. This is not the case anymore, it runs brilliantly boosts to 1.1 bar and holds it fine.
I had run it just over a week before the gearbox/clutch gave up, and it got hot 3-4 times in total, always with the cold bottom rad hose, but the top one looks like its about to blow.
Obviously i didnt run it when the temp was rising, and checked it constantly.
Was going to ask the boys at ag to have a look while its there, but my repair costs are maxed out this month now
Im thinking a corrosion blockage in the engine, which is reducing with flushing?? Thoughts anyone?
Roy

C17RPA

thats what i think to..........looks like a new rad?

pinkypurkhardt

iTrader: (9)

burn it

roydenw1

Was considered, but theres no going back now....

roydenw1

Mmmm..ordered a new top hose because the swelling/weakened state cant be helping. I Think its one ill ask the garage to look at when its running again.
I can see this thing is going to be the death of me

pinkypurkhardt

iTrader: (9)

welcome to subaru lol

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Replace the radiator, at that age, it is common for them to sludge up, but still flow water, sadly they dont flow enough.

roydenw1

Cheers Steven, yeh it seems by peoples experience that its more likely to be the rad than the water pump...I have been told the water pumps are pretty reliable.
Hopefully getting it back today with a new box and clutch fitted.
Ill get on old flea bay and have a look

TingTongPJ

iTrader: (24)

depending on were you are i have a nearly new rad in my garage i removed when i broke my classic, drop me a pm if your interested

roydenw1

Cheers mate, but considering the problems i only plan on using a brand new one...just so i can eliminate it being the cause if nothing else.
Thanks though