paralell fuel mod
11 June 2010, 01:04 AM
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paralell fuel mod
Was wondering if i did this, could i still use standard FPR? as i will be on stock fuel system with just a td05 16g if its good enough to use on the series fuel rail why cant it be used on a paralell fuel rail? can see benifits of an adjustable FPR on higher tuned stuff like.
11 June 2010, 02:37 AM
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Info I found and looks pretty easy to do.
Originally Posted by MYR58U (Type-RA.co.uk)
Re: Parallel Fuel Rail Mod
You can do it yourself very easily. There is a more detailed description in my thread on my car, but basically you need to pull the intake manifold off, remove the old fuel lines and rails, and from there buy:
What:
- 8mm (5/16") fuel hose (I bought 5m to have some spare)
- x2 fuel T-pieces to suit above hose
- x15 hose clamps - put 1 on every join. You'll have some spare, which is always good.
- x2 PASSENGER side fuel rails (no fuel pressure regulator on passenger rails)
- x1 aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator (with gauge). I found Sard to be the best and most reliable.
- x1 set of spare under-manifold fuel lines to cut up PLUS your old ones
Why:
To ensure equal fuel flow to each cylinder, you need to ensure pressure is kept equal in both rails. This is achieved using precisely identical lengths of hose for the feed and the return. What you want is one piece of hose going from the filter to a T-piece, which splits in 2 and runs to the fuel rails. Fuel goes through the rails, out the back and then you have 2 pieces of fuel hose (identical to the feed side) taking it back to another T-piece, which then takes it to your fuel pressure regulator mounted somewhere else in the engine bay (from the reg. it will then go down the return line to the tank).
How:
Get the elbows (which join the fuel rails) cut off your old fuel lines and have the ends swaged (so the hose doesn't pop off/leak. This is really easy and should cost you almost nothing.
Then, get the measuring tape out and measure the distance from the OUTLET of your fuel filter to the middle of the engine (where your T-piece splitter will be). Your return line to the fuel pressure regulator needs to be the same length as this feed line.
The lines going from each T-piece across to each rail should be the same length and i've found 300mm to be a good size as it is a bit longer than required (and therefore fits around the various pumps/wiring/etc under the intake manifold). Remember, you need to be precise when measuring to ensure equal flow.
Once you've trialled how it all goes together, fit it up, mount the fuel pressure regulator and adjust the pressure (for 380s it should be around 38psi, 440s will require 45psi I think) and tidy up the vacuum lines, etc.
You can do it yourself very easily. There is a more detailed description in my thread on my car, but basically you need to pull the intake manifold off, remove the old fuel lines and rails, and from there buy:
What:
- 8mm (5/16") fuel hose (I bought 5m to have some spare)
- x2 fuel T-pieces to suit above hose
- x15 hose clamps - put 1 on every join. You'll have some spare, which is always good.
- x2 PASSENGER side fuel rails (no fuel pressure regulator on passenger rails)
- x1 aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator (with gauge). I found Sard to be the best and most reliable.
- x1 set of spare under-manifold fuel lines to cut up PLUS your old ones
Why:
To ensure equal fuel flow to each cylinder, you need to ensure pressure is kept equal in both rails. This is achieved using precisely identical lengths of hose for the feed and the return. What you want is one piece of hose going from the filter to a T-piece, which splits in 2 and runs to the fuel rails. Fuel goes through the rails, out the back and then you have 2 pieces of fuel hose (identical to the feed side) taking it back to another T-piece, which then takes it to your fuel pressure regulator mounted somewhere else in the engine bay (from the reg. it will then go down the return line to the tank).
How:
Get the elbows (which join the fuel rails) cut off your old fuel lines and have the ends swaged (so the hose doesn't pop off/leak. This is really easy and should cost you almost nothing.
Then, get the measuring tape out and measure the distance from the OUTLET of your fuel filter to the middle of the engine (where your T-piece splitter will be). Your return line to the fuel pressure regulator needs to be the same length as this feed line.
The lines going from each T-piece across to each rail should be the same length and i've found 300mm to be a good size as it is a bit longer than required (and therefore fits around the various pumps/wiring/etc under the intake manifold). Remember, you need to be precise when measuring to ensure equal flow.
Once you've trialled how it all goes together, fit it up, mount the fuel pressure regulator and adjust the pressure (for 380s it should be around 38psi, 440s will require 45psi I think) and tidy up the vacuum lines, etc.
11 June 2010, 04:07 AM
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Was wondering if i did this, could i still use standard FPR? as i will be on stock fuel system with just a td05 16g if its good enough to use on the series fuel rail why cant it be used on a paralell fuel rail? can see benifits of an adjustable FPR on higher tuned stuff like.
11 June 2010, 08:09 AM
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11 June 2010, 08:19 AM
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See this is where the mixed reveiew are..
Yea Shaun undertstand that, i wouldent just cut and join pipes together, and understand they have to be equal length too. Just need to know if you can use standard fuel pressure reg ?
Yea Shaun undertstand that, i wouldent just cut and join pipes together, and understand they have to be equal length too. Just need to know if you can use standard fuel pressure reg ?
11 June 2010, 02:46 PM
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The first post mentions it, but that is because your setup is different.
On a T'd setup it could have some effect, but with you using 2 ports to control pressure there is a difference.
On a T'd setup it could have some effect, but with you using 2 ports to control pressure there is a difference.
11 June 2010, 08:16 PM
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I'm using a 2 port FPR and have modified the rails. I haven't gone billet.
Was going to go for the same route as Duncan's set up but decided to mod the rails.
It can be done, just make sure you do it carefully and take your time.
Steve
Was going to go for the same route as Duncan's set up but decided to mod the rails.
It can be done, just make sure you do it carefully and take your time.
Steve
11 June 2010, 10:59 PM
#14
I thought the OP's question was could it be done using the standard reg. I still say doing so is not worth it. If you are going to do this then do it properly. The classic rails are easy to mod and you can just braze some -6 male ends on them or you can buy some modded ones on an exchange basis.
I did this on one of my cars and the worked very well. If going through this trouble though I'd go the whole hog and use an aftermarket reg.
Here is a pic of my set up with rails I bought from Mocom which worked out at £80 exchange at the time.
I did this on one of my cars and the worked very well. If going through this trouble though I'd go the whole hog and use an aftermarket reg.
Here is a pic of my set up with rails I bought from Mocom which worked out at £80 exchange at the time.
22 October 2010, 08:55 PM
#15
Hey guys
Just saw this thread and thought id ask a few questions! Been thinking of doing this for a while and im gonna have the manifold off so thought why not!
I noticed Mocom racing have there '555' parallel fuel rail kit for sale but its seems quite expensive at £555 plus vat! Does anyone know anywhere i can pick up the bits cheaper? From what i've read i need the following-
2x Modded fuel rails
3 port fuel regulator (Fuelab)
4 meters of braided hose
12x -6 hose ends
1x t piece
Is there anything else i need?
Thanks
Wayne
Just saw this thread and thought id ask a few questions! Been thinking of doing this for a while and im gonna have the manifold off so thought why not!
I noticed Mocom racing have there '555' parallel fuel rail kit for sale but its seems quite expensive at £555 plus vat! Does anyone know anywhere i can pick up the bits cheaper? From what i've read i need the following-
2x Modded fuel rails
3 port fuel regulator (Fuelab)
4 meters of braided hose
12x -6 hose ends
1x t piece
Is there anything else i need?
Thanks
Wayne
03 January 2011, 10:10 PM
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I take it yours is like this Duncan, instead of the T-Peice at the bottom, you have the FPR directly in there, but yours seems to be backward?
Last edited by Jamz_; 03 January 2011 at 10:12 PM.
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