wanted

As Maf's seem not to last at all on V5/V6 will a AFR meter warn me when it's time to change it, or is there another, more reliable way of knowing before any damage occurs (sp?)

Splitpin

The current "green stripe" type is pretty reliable, unless you do something silly they should last a good old while. Oily filter, mounting them in an induction kit, dumpvalve delete or aftermarket DV with too strong a spring can kill them pretty quick. Stick with the standard induction tract, DV and panel filter and you shouldn't be replacing it at all frequently.

Yes, AFR meter's one way. Better option would be a knock monitor of some sort. KnockLink or, even better, KS3/KS4 etc etc.

wanted

I can't i've got a front mount.

I know what the others are but what's a KS3/KS4?

Slowboy Racing

Im being lazy.

Settings - KS-3 Knock Analyser

Splitpin

Given some of your other posts, and depending on what your usage and long-term plans are, there'd be a very good argument for getting shot of the FMIC and fitting a good top mount. That would in turn permit you to refit the standard induction tract. In the 300-330bhp arena a front mount is almost certainly costing you more in throttle response than it is gaining you in charge density.

Un-Ink has that one well covered.

wanted

nice one

wanted

I hear what your saying splitpin but putting things back to standard seems like a backwards step. The issues i had with the running probs turned out to not be related to the front mount or any mods and the car is in for mapping tommorrow. I think in the long term i am going to go down the maf-less ecu route, so seems a waste of money to buy another intercooler and replace the filter. I just want to manage the maf for 3-4 months until that is viable, and any knock monitors i buy will still be handy.

Splitpin

As I said in my post, it's an option that was put forward without knowing what your long term plans are - so if those plans include an aftermarket ECU that obviously deals with the MAF issue.

However, whatever you may think about "backward steps", the bottom line is that an unnecessary and avoidable increase in inlet tract volume will cost you a little throttle response. At the power level you're talking about now, a top mount IC is probably the best all-round option - and this will apply whether you're running the standard ECU or not.

wanted

It's definately something I've thought alot about, given the amount it may cost to keep changing and monitoring the maf in the short term vs the cost of, say, a STI top mount. I think if the maf causes any kind of issue tommorrow then i'll take the front mount off and fit a sti one on for now. I can get one for a reasonable amount as a friend has one.

as for swapping them anyway, you've given me something to consider. I'll see how the car drives when i get it back.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Ver 5 + 6 MAF sensors are relatively delicate whereas the other MAF Sensors by comparison are quite hardy. Ensure there is no vibtation such as the MAF body on the inner wing. Providing there is no vibration, MAF life should easily exceed a year before precautionary replacement. If you have MAF sensors failing much before this there is an underlying cause that should be identified.
A MAF less ECU such as Simtek is around £900 new plus VAT.
Much above 300 bhp and you are already in an area where you will gain from an efficient front mount.

wanted

Thanks harvey, that's the kind of info i was looking for. I will check tommorrow to see if the maf is in contact with anything. I did think that the front mount is an advantage and seeing as the car ran over 300bhp on the rollers it must be doing it's job.
When I first had a scoob in 2003 I followed your advice very closely then, and ended up with a very well setup scoob. I've had a couple since then and seriously value your input on this one,so thanks again

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Thanks for your kind words. Happy to help you further if I can.