swopping engine`s
#1
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swopping engine`s and loom compatibility between model years.
Hi all need a bit of advice please? iv got an my94 v1 sti which iv only owned a few weeks, iv just found out it has been in a serious front ender and the chassis is shot, what i wanted to no is this, I can get an my97 catalunya shell with loom etc, how easy is it to fit my my94 sti engine gearbox and diffs into the new shell? will the engine work on the my97 ecu? if not what do i have to do, i have the my94 loom so if worst come to worse i could swop looms i suppose/
Ant advice would be greatly apriciated thanks
Ian
Ant advice would be greatly apriciated thanks
Ian
Last edited by worbs; 12 February 2010 at 05:46 PM. Reason: none
#3
If it's worth doing it's worth doing right. I would simply strip the 97 shell bare and then transfer everything from the 94 shell into it. Looms, dash, engine, box, diff, struts, brakes, fuel pump and anything else that looks 'different' . Some ecu's have different wires feeding them so I'd change everything to be safe.
It'd probably take a weekend to get it all done and dusted. Where abouts in the country are you?
It'd be handy to get a workshop manual so that you have access to all the torque settings to ensure it's all perfect.
It'd probably take a weekend to get it all done and dusted. Where abouts in the country are you?
It'd be handy to get a workshop manual so that you have access to all the torque settings to ensure it's all perfect.
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If it's worth doing it's worth doing right. I would simply strip the 97 shell bare and then transfer everything from the 94 shell into it. Looms, dash, engine, box, diff, struts, brakes, fuel pump and anything else that looks 'different' . Some ecu's have different wires feeding them so I'd change everything to be safe.
It'd probably take a weekend to get it all done and dusted. Where abouts in the country are you?
It'd be handy to get a workshop manual so that you have access to all the torque settings to ensure it's all perfect.
It'd probably take a weekend to get it all done and dusted. Where abouts in the country are you?
It'd be handy to get a workshop manual so that you have access to all the torque settings to ensure it's all perfect.
Ian
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#9
Hey. Seems you've been talking to yourself...
Hee hee...
I wouldn't have the slightest idea of any differences but if they exist then I would imagine they would be slight. The bit that has been highlighted to me so far is that the classic has a cable speedo whereas the facelift classic has an electronic one... Could posse an issue of sorts...
How comes you don't want to simply gut the car and swap the lot into the other shell? It would mean everything would be perfect as oppose to leaving open a few loose ends that only cause headaches later on...
Hee hee...
I wouldn't have the slightest idea of any differences but if they exist then I would imagine they would be slight. The bit that has been highlighted to me so far is that the classic has a cable speedo whereas the facelift classic has an electronic one... Could posse an issue of sorts...
How comes you don't want to simply gut the car and swap the lot into the other shell? It would mean everything would be perfect as oppose to leaving open a few loose ends that only cause headaches later on...
#10
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Hey. Seems you've been talking to yourself...
Hee hee...
I wouldn't have the slightest idea of any differences but if they exist then I would imagine they would be slight. The bit that has been highlighted to me so far is that the classic has a cable speedo whereas the facelift classic has an electronic one... Could posse an issue of sorts...
How comes you don't want to simply gut the car and swap the lot into the other shell? It would mean everything would be perfect as oppose to leaving open a few loose ends that only cause headaches later on...
Hee hee...
I wouldn't have the slightest idea of any differences but if they exist then I would imagine they would be slight. The bit that has been highlighted to me so far is that the classic has a cable speedo whereas the facelift classic has an electronic one... Could posse an issue of sorts...
How comes you don't want to simply gut the car and swap the lot into the other shell? It would mean everything would be perfect as oppose to leaving open a few loose ends that only cause headaches later on...
Im not that clued up with auto electrics mate, im a sparky by trade though so swopping complete looms is prob not beyond me if i have the pin outs and diagrams etc, just would of rather it been a straight swop for the sake of being easier (and a tad lazy) lol, but i suppose it`s a chance to learn something new.
The v3 sti is deffo a 3 pin and the v1 sti is a 4 so ill have to do some fettling no matter what
Ian
#11
Lol i often talk to my self fella, its fun lol,
Im not that clued up with auto electrics mate, im a sparky by trade though so swopping complete looms is prob not beyond me if i have the pin outs and diagrams etc, just would of rather it been a straight swop for the sake of being easier (and a tad lazy) lol, but i suppose it`s a chance to learn something new.
The v3 sti is deffo a 3 pin and the v1 sti is a 4 so ill have to do some fettling no matter what
Ian
Im not that clued up with auto electrics mate, im a sparky by trade though so swopping complete looms is prob not beyond me if i have the pin outs and diagrams etc, just would of rather it been a straight swop for the sake of being easier (and a tad lazy) lol, but i suppose it`s a chance to learn something new.
The v3 sti is deffo a 3 pin and the v1 sti is a 4 so ill have to do some fettling no matter what
Ian
You 'would' need to use your electrical skills to start mixing up looms though and would need diagrams to identify what sends what where and why... THAT would be hard work in my opinion.
I've carried out a lot of engine swaps and the easiest ones I have done have involved swapping 'everything' as oppose to bits and pieces. Always end up with dodgy relays or things connected in a different manner when I tried the supposed 'easy' route. The ONLY easy route is to do it all right first time!
If swapping out the dashes you'll most likely need to swap out the door cards too. I'm currently trying to figure out a method of removing the classic facelift dash and installing the pre-facelift dash as I prefer the door cards.........
Just look sexier to me......
#12
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Not really anything 'electrical' about swapping out the looms, simply unplugging and re-plugging. Could label them if you're forgetful but generally it's easy to find what plugs in where as long as you find something that plugs in somewhere and then work from there...
You 'would' need to use your electrical skills to start mixing up looms though and would need diagrams to identify what sends what where and why... THAT would be hard work in my opinion.
I've carried out a lot of engine swaps and the easiest ones I have done have involved swapping 'everything' as oppose to bits and pieces. Always end up with dodgy relays or things connected in a different manner when I tried the supposed 'easy' route. The ONLY easy route is to do it all right first time!
If swapping out the dashes you'll most likely need to swap out the door cards too. I'm currently trying to figure out a method of removing the classic facelift dash and installing the pre-facelift dash as I prefer the door cards.........
Just look sexier to me......
You 'would' need to use your electrical skills to start mixing up looms though and would need diagrams to identify what sends what where and why... THAT would be hard work in my opinion.
I've carried out a lot of engine swaps and the easiest ones I have done have involved swapping 'everything' as oppose to bits and pieces. Always end up with dodgy relays or things connected in a different manner when I tried the supposed 'easy' route. The ONLY easy route is to do it all right first time!
If swapping out the dashes you'll most likely need to swap out the door cards too. I'm currently trying to figure out a method of removing the classic facelift dash and installing the pre-facelift dash as I prefer the door cards.........
Just look sexier to me......
I would like to try and keep the facelift dash though, i prefer it to the pre-facelift, ill look into how difficult it will be, will there be issue`s when attempting that mate?.
#13
Pre-facelift door cards will be a little 'cramped' up against the facelift dash. They're also a different colour although you wouldn't think it...
As far as I know if you're leaving the original looms in the doors etc then the facelift looms will fit the electric window switches etc on all but the drivers door which has a different connection block. Not impossible to change over and would merely be a case of cutting and shutting. The switches seem to operate the 'other' way round with the modern loom too... Could of course vary from loom to loom...
Still to get stuck into it all so that's all the info I have so far. The complexities of the wiring has still to be explored for me but I'm definitely removing the facelift dash and fitting the original one... I've only got the basic 'rough' WRX reddy/blacky inserts unfortunately...
As far as I know if you're leaving the original looms in the doors etc then the facelift looms will fit the electric window switches etc on all but the drivers door which has a different connection block. Not impossible to change over and would merely be a case of cutting and shutting. The switches seem to operate the 'other' way round with the modern loom too... Could of course vary from loom to loom...
Still to get stuck into it all so that's all the info I have so far. The complexities of the wiring has still to be explored for me but I'm definitely removing the facelift dash and fitting the original one... I've only got the basic 'rough' WRX reddy/blacky inserts unfortunately...
#14
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Pre-facelift door cards will be a little 'cramped' up against the facelift dash. They're also a different colour although you wouldn't think it...
As far as I know if you're leaving the original looms in the doors etc then the facelift looms will fit the electric window switches etc on all but the drivers door which has a different connection block. Not impossible to change over and would merely be a case of cutting and shutting. The switches seem to operate the 'other' way round with the modern loom too... Could of course vary from loom to loom...
Still to get stuck into it all so that's all the info I have so far. The complexities of the wiring has still to be explored for me but I'm definitely removing the facelift dash and fitting the original one... I've only got the basic 'rough' WRX reddy/blacky inserts unfortunately...
As far as I know if you're leaving the original looms in the doors etc then the facelift looms will fit the electric window switches etc on all but the drivers door which has a different connection block. Not impossible to change over and would merely be a case of cutting and shutting. The switches seem to operate the 'other' way round with the modern loom too... Could of course vary from loom to loom...
Still to get stuck into it all so that's all the info I have so far. The complexities of the wiring has still to be explored for me but I'm definitely removing the facelift dash and fitting the original one... I've only got the basic 'rough' WRX reddy/blacky inserts unfortunately...
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Ph.1 MY93-96 (up til Aug 96) dash/interior is the same is the Ph.1.5 MY97 (up til Aug 97) one, yes! But whether the electrics/looms changed about...? I suspect they did, as the ECU is a 3-plug compared to the Ph.1's 4-plug, which probably implies wholesale changes to the looms, etc.......
It was for MY98 (from Sep 97) when the dash/interior changed...
It was for MY98 (from Sep 97) when the dash/interior changed...
Last edited by joz8968; 13 February 2010 at 05:54 PM.
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Ph.1 MY93-96 (up til Aug 96) dash/interior is the same is the Ph.1.5 MY97 (up til Aug 97) one, yes! But whether the electrics/looms changed about...? I suspect they did, as the ECU is a 3-plug compared to the Ph.1's 4-plug, which probably implies wholesale changes to the looms, etc.......
It was for MY98 (from Sep 97) when the dash/interior changed...
It was for MY98 (from Sep 97) when the dash/interior changed...
Cheers joz, yer the ecu in the shell im using is a 3pin and my car`s loom is a 4, ill have to study some pin outs and wiring diagrams to see where the differences lie, hopefully they shouldn`t be to severe, if so i will just change dash`s.
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