serious boost problem!!!!
#1
serious boost problem!!!!
HI i have been lookin at loads of threads about this but i thought id post anyway.
I have a my99 uk turbo and it has a decat pipe a induction kit and a bleed valve fitted, now i have looked at the bleed valve and it i as near as dam it screwed all the way in yet the car still appears to be boosting over 20 psi according to my guage!! also i cant plant my foot as the boost cut comes in pretty much straight away!! any ideas people as im lost
also the car is still only doin around 18 miles to a tenner
I have a my99 uk turbo and it has a decat pipe a induction kit and a bleed valve fitted, now i have looked at the bleed valve and it i as near as dam it screwed all the way in yet the car still appears to be boosting over 20 psi according to my guage!! also i cant plant my foot as the boost cut comes in pretty much straight away!! any ideas people as im lost
also the car is still only doin around 18 miles to a tenner
#3
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Reason you're getting 18miles to a tenner is a combo of 20psi/your right foot, no doubt! You should get around 45miles to £10 at current SUL prices of 111.9p/litre, on the combined cycle.
As a control, temporarily remove the BV form the system and reconnect the BCS to make sure the OEM system is functioning as it should and at the quoted boost target, first! Then if all okay, it must be something with the valve/plumbing, etc...
...Double check your bleed valve is plumbed in properly and whether it is actually closed right up. Other than that check for disconnected/loose/split boost control pipework. Is your WG actuator rod stiff? Can you slacken it off a bit to compensate, etc, etc...
As a control, temporarily remove the BV form the system and reconnect the BCS to make sure the OEM system is functioning as it should and at the quoted boost target, first! Then if all okay, it must be something with the valve/plumbing, etc...
...Double check your bleed valve is plumbed in properly and whether it is actually closed right up. Other than that check for disconnected/loose/split boost control pipework. Is your WG actuator rod stiff? Can you slacken it off a bit to compensate, etc, etc...
Last edited by joz8968; 13 February 2010 at 09:08 PM.
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#8
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I would honestly bin the bleed valve mate i think there bad news, iv destroyed a few engines in my younger days with them, 2 rs turbos a fiat uno turbo and a renny5 to be precise, have you tried completly removing it to see if your over boosting.
#9
Reason you're getting 18miles to a tenner is 20psi and your right foot no doubt! You should get around 45miles to £10 at current SUL prices of 111.9p/litre, on the combined cycle.
As a control, temporarily remove the BV form the system and reconnect the BCS to make sure the OEM system is functioning as t should first! Then if all okay, it must be something with the valve/plumbing, etc.....
....Double check your bleed valve is plumbed in properly and whether it is actually closed right up. Other than that check for disconnected/loose/split boost control pipework. Is your WG actuator rod stiff? Can you slacken it off a bit to compensate, etc, etc...
As a control, temporarily remove the BV form the system and reconnect the BCS to make sure the OEM system is functioning as t should first! Then if all okay, it must be something with the valve/plumbing, etc.....
....Double check your bleed valve is plumbed in properly and whether it is actually closed right up. Other than that check for disconnected/loose/split boost control pipework. Is your WG actuator rod stiff? Can you slacken it off a bit to compensate, etc, etc...
Last edited by scoobyshane; 13 February 2010 at 09:09 PM.
#11
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A bleed valve (but NOT a MBC like a Dawes Device) if screwed out, bleeds air out of a 3rd port thus the WG will, effectively, see more boost to overcome its spring's tension, hence greater boost getting into the engine. If screwed right in to its 'stop', then that 3rd bleed port is closed right off, so the WG sees normal OEM WG-set boost.
But get rid of it - a replacement OEM 2-port BCS can be had on eBay or a member on here for around, I think, £20 max.
But get rid of it - a replacement OEM 2-port BCS can be had on eBay or a member on here for around, I think, £20 max.
Last edited by joz8968; 13 February 2010 at 09:41 PM.
#15
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A bleed valve (but NOT a MBC like a Dawes Device) if oppened out, bleeds air out of a 3rd port thus the WG effectively sees more boost to overcome its spring's tension. If closed right up, then that 3rd port is closed right off, so the WG sees normal OEM boost.
But get rid of it - a replacement 3-port BCS can be had on eBat=y or a member on here for around £20 max.
But get rid of it - a replacement 3-port BCS can be had on eBat=y or a member on here for around £20 max.
#16
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lol yeah I realised at the last min he had a MY99 - see my amended post.
But as you say he could get the early, finer-controlled 3-port job (instead of the OEM 2-port), and get a remap....... if he wants to go to that extra trouble, that is...
But as you say he could get the early, finer-controlled 3-port job (instead of the OEM 2-port), and get a remap....... if he wants to go to that extra trouble, that is...
Last edited by joz8968; 13 February 2010 at 09:46 PM.
#17
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depends on the type some are in some are out
this type is in Manual Boost Controller Audi S3 S4 RS4 RS6 1.8 Turbo TD on eBay (end time 20-Feb-10 10:07:32 GMT)
this one out http://www.fuelsystem.co.uk/Bleed%20Valve%20copy.jpg
this type is in Manual Boost Controller Audi S3 S4 RS4 RS6 1.8 Turbo TD on eBay (end time 20-Feb-10 10:07:32 GMT)
this one out http://www.fuelsystem.co.uk/Bleed%20Valve%20copy.jpg
#19
Turbo Bleed Valve (Under Bonnet) on eBay (end time 09-Mar-10 16:09:59 GMT)
this is identical to mine
this is identical to mine
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Try cleaning out the bcs, im sure there is a thread on here explaining how to do it, it may be all it needs, then bin the bleed valve mate, extra boost without a remap to ensure correct fueling etc is a recipie for disaster.
#22
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Best thing to do would be to as stated above get the standard setup working. If you cant do this run a pipe from the turbo to the actuator this will give you about 0.7bar and will check that your actuator still works.
Doing this you know your engine will not pop but will be underpowered.
Doing this you know your engine will not pop but will be underpowered.
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