to stroke or not to stroke?
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to stroke or not to stroke?
hey
have recently started a full engine rebuild due to low compression in 1 cylinder and want to forge internals while im at it but was wondering what make / kit to go for? or to go for a stroker kit instead ? my aim is between 350 and 400 bhp .
spec as follows
1994 acropolis rally special wrx sti
parts to add
tdo5 18g
apexi power fc
550cc injectors
fpr
z32 maf
parts already on car
255 fuel pump
fmic
3" exhaust decatted
rcm oil pump
was running 330 bhp before.
so what should i be going for to reach my goals thats cost effective but not s*** and will be pointless putting on as i have a budget of about £1500 with some flexibility, for complete build as no labour costs. or is this not enough? plus will i need arp rod bolts and head bolts or not enough power to warrant changing?
p.s yes i am going to change box and brakes once its alive again
any help appreciated james
have recently started a full engine rebuild due to low compression in 1 cylinder and want to forge internals while im at it but was wondering what make / kit to go for? or to go for a stroker kit instead ? my aim is between 350 and 400 bhp .
spec as follows
1994 acropolis rally special wrx sti
parts to add
tdo5 18g
apexi power fc
550cc injectors
fpr
z32 maf
parts already on car
255 fuel pump
fmic
3" exhaust decatted
rcm oil pump
was running 330 bhp before.
so what should i be going for to reach my goals thats cost effective but not s*** and will be pointless putting on as i have a budget of about £1500 with some flexibility, for complete build as no labour costs. or is this not enough? plus will i need arp rod bolts and head bolts or not enough power to warrant changing?
p.s yes i am going to change box and brakes once its alive again
any help appreciated james
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For a relatively cheap build, just get a 2.0 CDB and build up with STi9 Rods + Pistons
Get a set of STi3 or 4 Cylinder Heads, as the early hydraulic heads are not great.
Fit with ARP Headstuds and steel gaskets for peace of mind
Should be 370/380 capable - the 18g will be the limiting factor
the OE STI9 Rods and pistons can be run at over 400 without problems
Get a set of STi3 or 4 Cylinder Heads, as the early hydraulic heads are not great.
Fit with ARP Headstuds and steel gaskets for peace of mind
Should be 370/380 capable - the 18g will be the limiting factor
the OE STI9 Rods and pistons can be run at over 400 without problems
Last edited by FB Tuning; 06 January 2010 at 08:02 PM.
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would that not be more involved than just forging it eg will i need another crank and forgot to mention it is a cdb if that matters. am looking at these ? would they do the job for what i want as i wont go for any more power. also was going to get the block honed or bored out, if i got 92.00mm would they be ok ? basically what size would i need ? thanks for that option fiesta boy
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sorry forgot to add link (am looking at these) Subaru Impreza EJ20 Forged Pistons Manley Steel Conrods on eBay (end time 30-Jan-10 18:35:57 GMT)
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Something about that doesnt read right..... they are 92mm Pistons for use with a 52MM crank, I think thats what it is getting at.... that equates to a 1.4 engine
I'm going through the same process as you but i have decided on Cosworth everything and a 321t on my bugeye STI
I'm going through the same process as you but i have decided on Cosworth everything and a 321t on my bugeye STI
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Something about that doesnt read right..... they are 92mm Pistons for use with a 52MM crank, I think thats what it is getting at.... that equates to a 1.4 engine
I'm going through the same process as you but i have decided on Cosworth everything and a 321t on my bugeye STI
I'm going through the same process as you but i have decided on Cosworth everything and a 321t on my bugeye STI
Think you will find that the 52mm refers to the big end journal size and not
the stroke of the crank.
Mick
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OP - that's why i suggested STi9 rods and pistons rather than an aftermarket solution.
If you will only ever want to acheive between 350 and 400 hp on this build, then the OE STi parts will be fine, and can be found relatively cheaply. - Saving you IRO £600ish on the build parts.
Obviously if you buy aftermarket pistons, then you'll need the cylinder liners bored to size, and be spending extra money there too.
If you select the correct A and B pistons, you ought to be able to give the cylinders a quick hone and then drop them in, providing everything measures up correctly.
If you will only ever want to acheive between 350 and 400 hp on this build, then the OE STi parts will be fine, and can be found relatively cheaply. - Saving you IRO £600ish on the build parts.
Obviously if you buy aftermarket pistons, then you'll need the cylinder liners bored to size, and be spending extra money there too.
If you select the correct A and B pistons, you ought to be able to give the cylinders a quick hone and then drop them in, providing everything measures up correctly.
Last edited by FB Tuning; 06 January 2010 at 10:26 PM.
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