srobbo18

iTrader: (1)

hi all, i am new to here and a proud new owner of a 05 plate wrx, since buying the wrx (blob eye) i have been told that the dump valve that the previous owner fitted is actualy bad for the engine as it releases into the atmospher rather than recerculating the air like the standard valve.

1. is this true ?
2. would a remap solve any issues ?
3. which recerculating dump valve would u recomend ?
4. if i had a receculating valve with an induction kit would i still get some tsss sounds ?

Thanks guy any advice would be greatly appreciated

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yes.......it can lead to rough running, over-fuelling and, in extreme cases, engine failure. There are always exceptions, but why take the risk? If there were ANY benefits, Subaru would fit VTA valves from new. They don't


Not afaik.


The standard one is good enough. Mine runs an HKS recirc on a classic. Changed 'cos I changed the i/c.


Yes, I do, on mine, loud enough to make people jump, but see my post on induction kits. Mine runs no MAF, so no probs there.

doormatty

So what we saying we should not have changed the one which was standard,
I put a bailey on mine and was told thats the best u can get,

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

VTA? You were misled. Recirc? It's the sellers opinion

TingTongPJ

iTrader: (24)

i would say bailey dump valves are for the low end of the market certainly not the best.

if you want aquality valve i would have said look at;

turbosmart/forge/aps products.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Get hold of the OEM valve for your car and refit it. If everything else is okay with your car, then it'll restore the perfect running of it. Very simple.

srobbo18

iTrader: (1)

Thanks alcazar, just to clear things up when i asked about the remapping option u said not with "afaik." , what does that mean please. sorry to be such a noob.

I like the noise so i think i will try an indution filter with a recirc valve, could u recomend an induction kit for the 05 please i was thinking K&N or Blitz.
Thanks guys

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

afaik = as far as I know

I'd fit the biggest K&N filter (and tuned trumpet if possible) you can afford/fit in the available space, personally.

srobbo18

iTrader: (1)

Just been looking on the clinics sight they use the K&N typhoon kit on there power packages so i recon they would recomend those, they also have half recirc half atmos dump valves so might pick up one of those too, will speak to them on monday as they come highly recomended.

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

Lol joz you doubling posts on purpose?

Stick to the OEM and save yourself the hassle if theres issues.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Regarding induction kits: ASK A TRUSTED TUNER. It's the only safe way. There are kits out there which CAN fek up your MAF, and the result CAN EASILY BE a blown engine.

Not worth the risk.

Never mind what ANYONE on here says, myself included, ask someone who tunes Subarus

Splitpin

If you're going to make that recommendation, you need to mention the immediate remap that will be necessary to account for the altered mass airflow-sensor voltage scaling, and the consequent lean running under boost it'll cause if left uncorrected.

Robbo: If you're going to refit the standard dumpvalve because you're worried about your aftermarket one causing problems, you may as well stick with the standard airbox too, for the same reasons.

The bottom line with "tisshh" (etc) sounds is that the car isn't supposed to cause them, and most of the ways you could artificially create them will result in the engine running sub-optimally (although you could work around this a little via a remap).

It may be more realistic for you to work on the basis that such noises are the preserve of the insufferable chav, and thus best avoided. It'll save you a load of hassle and expense, and result in your car running better. On the other hand, if you must have the noise, you might as well stick with the dumpvalve you've got, and deal with the fact that the engine isn't running right.

srobbo18

iTrader: (1)

yer will try on monday just like to try to expand my knowledge and at least look like i know what i m talking about when i call into the garage lol

srobbo18

iTrader: (1)

thanks splitpin, i aint no chav but like the noise, i aint got the standard valve so might buy a recirc and leave filter until i can afford a remap. i would never have tought it could cause problems until someone told me, would not have baught the car to be honest if i knew but i think its only been on for a few months so no real harm done i hope.

rooferman

iTrader: (6)

Forge recirc are a good upgrade.....other than that i would suggest the oe item..

srobbo18

iTrader: (1)

Thats the one i was looking at from revelution they seem an alright price too.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I was assunming srobbo was aware of this and had already taken it into account - but you're right, I should've mentioned it, regardless. Very important.


But, I agree with alcazar, you should always take your trusted mapper's advice (regardless of anything we can offer)...

Splitpin

You'd be better off getting a replacement standard valve - from here or eBay if push comes to shove. Aside from the fact that you can get them for next to nothing secondhand, the OE newage valves work great, and, most importantly, are the exact one that your ECU expects you to have.

The problem with aftermarket recirculating valves is that more often than not the release pressure is wrong. Either too loose so they dump too early, or too tight so they don't open when they should. Both issues can be problematic. Fit an OE valve and it comes with the reassurance that it is the right part for the job. Simply no reason to pay over the odds for an aftermarket one, they're not "better" in any way that makes a difference.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Fecking home PC on a go-slow - being a right cvnt these days. Driving me bandy.

AAAAARH!!!