m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

ive had my classic 11 months now and finaly shes alive.

now what do i need to get it faster round the bends im not happy with the curent feel. ive got some 4pots coming as the 2pots just get hot and dont do ther job.

so rear arb or front and back???
anti lift kit?
tien lowwering springs?

whats needed?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Also add the Whiteline polyurethane/metal solid drop links front and rear - as the OEM rubber ones have too much give, and will negate a lot of the extra stiffness/control the ARBs offer.

I'd also add a set of rear camber bolts and get it all geo. aligned with -1.5deg negative camber all round; and as close to 0deg toe as poss.

If you're really serious you can also get the car corner-weighted, where the weight distribution is evened out as much as possible on all 4 corners...

m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

if you saw my drive a 1/4 mile of track pote hole riden a geo setup wud last the drive home lol wuld you sugest front and back arb's or just rear and do they make a big difrence

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I wouldn't spend loads on the lowering springs - just get a set that lowers by no more than 1.5" (40mm) and have a rate that will work with your existing dampers.

Springs'/dampers' job is to simply keep the tyres' contact patches on the road as much as possible (as well as some semblance of comfort lol)... It's the tyres/ARBs/linkages/geo. set-up that really influences the overall handling traits of the car...

53

iTrader: (41)

I find my STi springs spot on in the classic.

I have...(in bold are the best bits)

Whiteline ALK
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushes
Whiteline Heavy Duty Rear ARB Mounts
Whiteline 24mm Rear ARB
Whiteline/Noltec Drop Links Front and Rear
Whiteline 22mm Front ARB
Subframe Support Bar
Whiteline Subframe Lock Bolts
Beatrush Diff Support/lock Brace
Beatrush Solid Engine PitchStop
Subframe replacement Bushes
Rear Strut Bar
Front Strut Bar

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I have the 22mm Whiteline ARB at the front and the non-adj. 22mm one at the rear to try to 'retain' the OEM handling trait, but more controlled with better turn in and front end grip. I don't like too much oversteer ('cause I'm crap and get scared lol), hence the rear bar not actually stiffer than the front.

The choice is yours!

If you love a more mobile, 'helpful' rear-end, then fit the 20mm one to the front; the 3-setting adj. 24mm one to the back, and have it on the stiffest setting!

Should be 'fun'! ;-)

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...tml?showfull=1

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...ml#post7553842

https://www.scoobynet.com/driving-dy...ml#post7458115

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...ing-specs.html

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...-settings.html

Few threads to look through

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

LOL. 53WRX has THE LOT!!!

53

iTrader: (41)

Nearly

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

What else could there possibly be?!

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

Poly bushes in the trailing arms and front arms really help too.

m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

looks like a 22mm rear arb then cheap option for now, in the wet the rear is lively as it is. all i have is nothing in the boot no jack no spare nthing and front and rear strut bars

53

iTrader: (41)

Cheap option would be doing the rear links to help the existing bar work harder. IMO Noltecs are c.£50 IIRC.

Do it once do it right, start from where you can go on without having to sell parts to upgrade. 24mm rear bar sounds scarey but set up properly with a 22mm front, feckin' awesome !

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I'd also defo fit a 20mm or 22mm front one WITH the solid drop links - will give you noticeably greater front-end grip and more controlled, keener turn in (despite the fact that it's stiffer). The std built-in understeer trait is all but banished at a stroke.

If you don't fancy a front ARB, then at the very least get the solid drop links fitted!

m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

so the info im getting it tellin me get front and rear arb's with ally drops so 20mm front 22mm rear???

53

iTrader: (41)

I would personally recommend 24 rear and 22 front, although people choose to set their cars up differently depending on what they like from a cars handling.

I run mine on 24mm rear adjusted to the middle and 22mm front soft setting. The characteristics are good turn in with minimal understeer. As I am a super smooth driver the back end is very stable although with a heavy turn the back steps out nicely into a controlled drift on your fav roundabouts etc.

The other consideration is tyres, the characteristics maybe spoilt by cheap tyres, particularly if you favour the rear and would like progressive slides rather than ditch finding ones.

I would start 24r 22f and go hard on the front and soft on the rear to get the feel of the reduced body roll and then play with the settings till you find your happy place

Having been in the same place as you asking the same questions, from where I am now I would say that doing the rear only on a classic is a missed opportunity IMHO.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I totally agree with all of 53WRX's advice. ^^^

mr flipsone

iTrader: (1)

book mark

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Adjustable rear bar !

Allows you to tune the handling to suit your style.

dunx

m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

22 and 24 it is then wilth ally drop what am i looking at moneys wise thankyou for your imputs

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

New or 2nd hand? Or a mix of both?

m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

depends what i can get my hands on

m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

you have some of what i want lol????

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

No lol - just that there'll be appreciable diff in price if you were to buy all 4 items 2nd hand, compared to new (somewhat obviously).

I have my OEM front and rear ARBs/drop links if you want 'em?