Dawes Device
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Dawes Device
Just a quick question with regards to the tubing that runs from the dawes to the actuator nipple does the original tube that ran from there to the actuator connection on the 3 port solenoid (ie the middle one) need to be blanked off?
The reason i ask is that at low speed and accelerating i can hear what sounds like air escaping.
The reason i ask is that at low speed and accelerating i can hear what sounds like air escaping.
#2
If you replaced a three port solenoid with a Dawes, the Dawes should be connected between the bleed air outlet on the compressor cover and the wastegate actuator.
Assuming you've done that, you do need to block the third pipe coming off the solenoid, as this should lead back to the inlet tract, and without blocking, rather than escaping, it'll be sucking unmetered air into the turbo pipe.
Assuming you've done that, you do need to block the third pipe coming off the solenoid, as this should lead back to the inlet tract, and without blocking, rather than escaping, it'll be sucking unmetered air into the turbo pipe.
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The pipe you are referring to from the solenoid, would that be the one that was originally connected to the actuator nipple as this is now sitting loose to make way for the tube from the dawes which is now connected to the actuator.
#4
Don't know which is which as it's your car, and you haven't posted any pictures to show you how you've configured the pipework!
We have to assume that you've disconnected two pipes between the turbo and solenoid - one from the compressor cover, and the other leading to the actuator inlet.
If this is correct, you have left the third pipe connected. This is connected to the inlet pipe, and, as mentioned, will be sucking air in through the open solenoid. Under ideal circumstances the best way to go is to remove that pipe from the nipple on the induction pipe and plug/cap the nipple. You can then either remove the solenoid from the car completely (and fit a resistor of similar impedence to prevent a CEL) or leave it connected, ideally with its hose outlets capped to stop crud getting into it.
We have to assume that you've disconnected two pipes between the turbo and solenoid - one from the compressor cover, and the other leading to the actuator inlet.
If this is correct, you have left the third pipe connected. This is connected to the inlet pipe, and, as mentioned, will be sucking air in through the open solenoid. Under ideal circumstances the best way to go is to remove that pipe from the nipple on the induction pipe and plug/cap the nipple. You can then either remove the solenoid from the car completely (and fit a resistor of similar impedence to prevent a CEL) or leave it connected, ideally with its hose outlets capped to stop crud getting into it.
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Yeah it's a v2 import classic wrx with the 3 port solenoid. There is a pipe going from the turbo to one side of the dawes then another piece of tubing going from the opposite side of the dawes to the actuator nipple.
Is this correct? However the original pipe that connected to the actuator nipple from the middle solenoid connection is sitting connected to the solenoid but the other end is not connected to the actuator nipple as this has been connected to the dawes if that all makes sense.
Is this correct? However the original pipe that connected to the actuator nipple from the middle solenoid connection is sitting connected to the solenoid but the other end is not connected to the actuator nipple as this has been connected to the dawes if that all makes sense.
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Thanks for the diagram m8 thats exactly how i have fitted mine i phoned a local specialist regarding blocking off the original hose to the solenoid and he says it doesn't matter if you do or not?
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#8
As a general point, and as said above, both Subaru solenoid arrangements return air back to the inlet tract (you can see the return pipe on Slipstream's car running down and heading out of the bottom centre of the frame). If you bypass the boost control aspect of the solenoid with a Dawes but leave the return pipe connected, it will suck air in, because of the partial vacuum caused by the turbo.
So, whatever the specialist has told you, you need to block something off - best way to deal is to remove the return pipe from the inlet and block/plug the spigot there.
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