is there a knack to removing pulleys?????
30 May 2009, 11:50 AM
#1
is there a knack to removing pulleys?????
as above tring to get the front three pulleys off to replace with new kit but they are all solid and just sit and turn with the belt?? dont want to jam anything in anywhere how do i get these off??
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30 May 2009, 01:23 PM
#8
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im slightly confused!
your timing belt should be off and a breaker bar will take them off no probs. the outside of the pulley will spin freely but the centre will be locked.....?
or shall i just get my coat?
your timing belt should be off and a breaker bar will take them off no probs. the outside of the pulley will spin freely but the centre will be locked.....?
or shall i just get my coat?
30 May 2009, 02:36 PM
#9
Lol hudson get your coat. hehe.
You will probably have to remove the Alternator as it;s easier in a vice, the crank pulley can be done easily. Put the car in 5th gear and then get your breaker bar on it i use a 600mm breaker bar and pow off it comes. U could improvise and just use a sliding knuckle bar with a tube on the end of it.
The power steering pump is going to be a struggle in its location therefore i honestly do advise removing it. As you know it will keep slipping on the ancillary belt so will become a pain.
You will probably have to remove the Alternator as it;s easier in a vice, the crank pulley can be done easily. Put the car in 5th gear and then get your breaker bar on it i use a 600mm breaker bar and pow off it comes. U could improvise and just use a sliding knuckle bar with a tube on the end of it.
The power steering pump is going to be a struggle in its location therefore i honestly do advise removing it. As you know it will keep slipping on the ancillary belt so will become a pain.
30 May 2009, 09:48 PM
#15
i see alternator come off no probs so sorted in vice and im relying on breaking the crank with a bar but see to take off the power steering will i have to remove induction/turbo hose? as this will also mean remove inlet manifold and i just refitted all that!!
30 May 2009, 11:05 PM
#16
Nope manifold don;t get touched. 2 bolts at front of pump the 3rd is at the back of the bracket i.e. right of the PS pump bolted onto block.
Thats the unmounted, heres the tricky part i was going to write it for you but i think this thread will help with the rest>>>
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...g-upgrade.html
Thats the unmounted, heres the tricky part i was going to write it for you but i think this thread will help with the rest>>>
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...g-upgrade.html
30 May 2009, 11:07 PM
#17
just remember to make sure it is in gear and that it is 5th and not 1st it will not work in a lower gear.It's a tried and tested method so do not worry it will work for you as long as you have the leverage bar.
You should be on a home run now so i'm going to say my good lucks and let you get on.
31 May 2009, 12:30 AM
#19
so how do you do that then? as im looking at it its crank pulley with the plastic cover for timing belt? im only trying to remove the outside crank to replace with whiteline one there more for looks than anything else lol!!
also if and when i get it off how do i manage to hold it to get it re torqued to 127nm?
also if and when i get it off how do i manage to hold it to get it re torqued to 127nm?
31 May 2009, 01:25 AM
#25
The other DIY trick for loosening the crank pulley is using a suitable length breaker bar, socket on the crank puulley bolt, and the arm of the break bar wedged on the right hand chassis leg (put a folded rag between the arm and the chassis leg to stop the paint being chipped), disconnect the crank sensor and give the starter a quick blip for less than half a second (gearbox in neutral 
).
You'll hear a bang, and with luck you'll also find a loose crank pulley bolt.
(or a hole in your battery if you mess it up )
).You'll hear a bang, and with luck you'll also find a loose crank pulley bolt.
(or a hole in your battery if you mess it up
)
31 May 2009, 01:34 AM
#27
sounds a bit complex for me tbh didint know i had to remove crank sensor and stuff i dont even know where that is lol im just doing stuff and learning at the same time as when ya stick the thing in garage ya learn nothing ha ment to be doing the turbo and ported headers i got from harvey next week that'll be fun lol
thought sti baly said keep in 5th and your saying neutral your methods diffrent was gonna try the socket on nut with long ratchet and a bar over that and just give it licks we it in 5th and hope for best worst case scenario ill replace the top 2 pulleys lol and sell the crank one would rather not lol but its no going in to garage for this!!
thought sti baly said keep in 5th and your saying neutral your methods diffrent was gonna try the socket on nut with long ratchet and a bar over that and just give it licks we it in 5th and hope for best worst case scenario ill replace the top 2 pulleys lol and sell the crank one would rather not lol but its no going in to garage for this!!
31 May 2009, 09:16 AM
#28
Oh, and the socket on the crank pulley bolt needs to be a impact wrench socket - a normal socket may split or shatter. So if you have a impact socket set, chances are you have an impact wrench....
Obviously the engine has be to disabled from firing up (by disconnecting the crank sensor). And there is a risk the break bar will snap if its a cheapy. (although ironically, I've snapped a "snap-on" bar too, more like "snap-off", they don't make them like they used to
).