is there a knack to removing pulleys?????
 

as above tring to get the front three pulleys off to replace with new kit but they are all solid and just sit and turn with the belt?? dont want to jam anything in anywhere how do i get these off??

I have clamped them in a vice before, if you feel confident in doing that to remove them

I have also used an old belt with some vice grips to hold pulley in place.

ok ill try with a vice but that would probably mark the new for going back on eh?

I suppose you could always use some timber in between the vice heads and some cotton cloth for further measures if needed.

Or the bellt method could be used.

na i cant get these nuts off no chance there all far too tight gonna have to give up lol

Lol, get some WD on there. oh not on the belts as they'll start slipping even more.

just tried the garage and they said ill need minimum or air gun in there n breker bar so means radiator out the lot lol i just stuck the thing in its a new one lol what a nightmare is it worth it

im slightly confused!

your timing belt should be off and a breaker bar will take them off no probs. the outside of the pulley will spin freely but the centre will be locked.....?

or shall i just get my coat?

Lol hudson get your coat. hehe.

You will probably have to remove the Alternator as it;s easier in a vice, the crank pulley can be done easily. Put the car in 5th gear and then get your breaker bar on it i use a 600mm breaker bar and pow off it comes. U could improvise and just use a sliding knuckle bar with a tube on the end of it.

The power steering pump is going to be a struggle in its location therefore i honestly do advise removing it. As you know it will keep slipping on the ancillary belt so will become a pain.

i know thats the problem thanks guys advice taken in

cheque please :D

ill send you one for a decent det of suspension lol

Hmm i hope your not forgetting my cheque here fifer. hehe

Good Luck mate. Oh and trust me nothing on these cars is easy, so be patient.

I dont know why but I find imprezas a piece of cake to work on! I would have gone back to a GTIR otherwise!

i see alternator come off no probs so sorted in vice and im relying on breaking the crank with a bar but see to take off the power steering will i have to remove induction/turbo hose? as this will also mean remove inlet manifold and i just refitted all that!!

Nope manifold don;t get touched. 2 bolts at front of pump the 3rd is at the back of the bracket i.e. right of the PS pump bolted onto block.

Thats the unmounted, heres the tricky part i was going to write it for you but i think this thread will help with the rest>>>

https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...g-upgrade.html

Do not break any cranks.....:nono: just remember to make sure it is in gear and that it is 5th and not 1st it will not work in a lower gear.

It's a tried and tested method so do not worry it will work for you as long as you have the leverage bar.

You should be on a home run now so i'm going to say my good lucks and let you get on.

or for those people who forget every god damn time todo this, a spanner wedged between the flywheel and the housing offers a very good alternative!

so how do you do that then? as im looking at it its crank pulley with the plastic cover for timing belt? im only trying to remove the outside crank to replace with whiteline one there more for looks than anything else lol!!
also if and when i get it off how do i manage to hold it to get it re torqued to 127nm?

to retorque it, tightening it as much as you can then stick it back in the car and whack it in 5th to finish the job.

sorry im assuming that you have the engine out which it doesnt sound like you do!

borrow a rattle (impact) gun.. thousand times easier...

Simon

no the engine is in the car and am trying to do it without even removing the radiator as i just fitted the car back together and the pulleys came late and stuff lol

agree with JGM but unfortunatly not everyone has one and im not sure you would get one in there tbh

The other DIY trick for loosening the crank pulley is using a suitable length breaker bar, socket on the crank puulley bolt, and the arm of the break bar wedged on the right hand chassis leg (put a folded rag between the arm and the chassis leg to stop the paint being chipped), disconnect the crank sensor and give the starter a quick blip for less than half a second (gearbox in neutral ;) ).

You'll hear a bang, and with luck you'll also find a loose crank pulley bolt.

(or a hole in your battery if you mess it up ;) )

LOL theres something about that idea that i dont like! I can see someone getting it wrong and a breaker bar spinning around at 7,00rpm :D

sounds a bit complex for me tbh didint know i had to remove crank sensor and stuff i dont even know where that is lol im just doing stuff and learning at the same time as when ya stick the thing in garage ya learn nothing ha ment to be doing the turbo and ported headers i got from harvey next week that'll be fun lol
thought sti baly said keep in 5th and your saying neutral your methods diffrent was gonna try the socket on nut with long ratchet and a bar over that and just give it licks we it in 5th and hope for best worst case scenario ill replace the top 2 pulleys lol and sell the crank one would rather not lol but its no going in to garage for this!!

Its very un-orthodox, and might leave a dent in the chassis leg, but it does work. :D

Oh, and the socket on the crank pulley bolt needs to be a impact wrench socket - a normal socket may split or shatter. So if you have a impact socket set, chances are you have an impact wrench....;)

Obviously the engine has be to disabled from firing up (by disconnecting the crank sensor). And there is a risk the break bar will snap if its a cheapy. (although ironically, I've snapped a "snap-on" bar too, more like "snap-off", they don't make them like they used to :( ).

No offence but I think I'll stick to putting it in 5th :D

Lol it's the easiest way without a doubt and no fear of breaking anything.