Running water sound on passenger side?!
15 December 2008, 04:12 PM
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Running water sound on passenger side?!
At low revs I can hear a quiet running water sound on the passenger side of my MY03 2.0 sport wagon. Comes and goes as I gently rev the engine. Anyone know what this could be? I figured it could be coolant working it's way past a partial air lock or something.
15 December 2008, 07:06 PM
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Thanks. I wondered that but it does it when the AC is off. I read on another thread that it could be air in the heat exchanger in the cabin. Not sure how to get the air out if so.....
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15 December 2008, 08:54 PM
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Ah cheers mate
Yes it is thanks
Red mica 94h
I wanted something a little different
Getting my sti scoop put on this week
What you jumping about in bud?
Yes it is thanks
Red mica 94h
I wanted something a little different
Getting my sti scoop put on this week
What you jumping about in bud?
15 December 2008, 09:43 PM
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Exactly the same sound on my MY06 STi Hawkeye I thought that it was the fuel pump as mine has PPP????
Simpsons !
Simpsons !
15 December 2008, 11:10 PM
#16
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LIKELY SOLUTION!
Having asked the question, I am hoping this is the answer. I googled the topic and found some advice from "edmunds", US site, which I have pasted below.
Sure enough, when I took the cap of my radiator it was not full despite the reservoir being above full. In fact, it took about 1.5 litres of coolant before it filled up. This makes sense as I can imagine that excess air in the system could reduce suction on the reservoir to the point that it fails to top up the rad automatically. I'll find out whether or not the fix works on my drive to work in the morning. Let me know if this works for you - cheers:
First, while your car's engine is cold, check the coolant level at the radiator fill neck, NOT the overflow bottle atop the right front inner fender (which will be partially filled with a green fluid.). At the radiator fill neck, there should be green fluid right up to the sealing ring (located about an inch or so below the top of the neck) in the fill neck. If it's low, air may've become trapped in the heater core. Add a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/demineralized water to bring the level up to the sealing ring. Once that's accomplished, if the level of coolant mix in the overflow bottle is low, bring it up the molded midline. You can buy antifreeze-coolant pre-mix at any autoparts store or the automotive section at discount stores - just look for the designation(s) "Pre-mix" and/or "50/50". Actual brand is unimportant - even if it's a long-life formulation (Since Hyundai uses a standard antifreeze, you won't gain any advantage using a long-life product for top-up. Most antifreeze sold in North America, now, is long life specification. The important thing is that mixing them will neither cause harm nor reduce the working life of the original coolant.). Next, set your automatic heater/air-conditioning system to manual, manually advance the heater control valve ALL the way to the hottest setting, and then drive the car for a few miles - there might still be air in the heater core that requires purging. A good drive or two should purge it out. (You do not have to run the fan during all this but doing so to maintain comfort is perfectly acceptable. The main thing is to keep the temp control to full "Hot" while purging any trapped air out.) If this solves the gurgling-noise problem, you're not done, yet. Keep close tabs on the coolant level over the next several days - again, at the radiator when the engine is cold. Some slight loss followed by a stable level only indicates any remaining air has been purged out of the system. However if the coolant level continues to drop repeatedly without stabilizing, you have a leak somewhere which will require the services of your dealer and would likely be a warranty claim at this stage of your car's life.
(Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze, attractively dyed, and, along with its pleasantly sweet aroma and taste, is equally very tempting to small children and pets. It's also lethally toxic in relatively small doses, so immediately wipe up spills.) //
Sure enough, when I took the cap of my radiator it was not full despite the reservoir being above full. In fact, it took about 1.5 litres of coolant before it filled up. This makes sense as I can imagine that excess air in the system could reduce suction on the reservoir to the point that it fails to top up the rad automatically. I'll find out whether or not the fix works on my drive to work in the morning. Let me know if this works for you - cheers:
First, while your car's engine is cold, check the coolant level at the radiator fill neck, NOT the overflow bottle atop the right front inner fender (which will be partially filled with a green fluid.). At the radiator fill neck, there should be green fluid right up to the sealing ring (located about an inch or so below the top of the neck) in the fill neck. If it's low, air may've become trapped in the heater core. Add a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/demineralized water to bring the level up to the sealing ring. Once that's accomplished, if the level of coolant mix in the overflow bottle is low, bring it up the molded midline. You can buy antifreeze-coolant pre-mix at any autoparts store or the automotive section at discount stores - just look for the designation(s) "Pre-mix" and/or "50/50". Actual brand is unimportant - even if it's a long-life formulation (Since Hyundai uses a standard antifreeze, you won't gain any advantage using a long-life product for top-up. Most antifreeze sold in North America, now, is long life specification. The important thing is that mixing them will neither cause harm nor reduce the working life of the original coolant.). Next, set your automatic heater/air-conditioning system to manual, manually advance the heater control valve ALL the way to the hottest setting, and then drive the car for a few miles - there might still be air in the heater core that requires purging. A good drive or two should purge it out. (You do not have to run the fan during all this but doing so to maintain comfort is perfectly acceptable. The main thing is to keep the temp control to full "Hot" while purging any trapped air out.) If this solves the gurgling-noise problem, you're not done, yet. Keep close tabs on the coolant level over the next several days - again, at the radiator when the engine is cold. Some slight loss followed by a stable level only indicates any remaining air has been purged out of the system. However if the coolant level continues to drop repeatedly without stabilizing, you have a leak somewhere which will require the services of your dealer and would likely be a warranty claim at this stage of your car's life.
(Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze, attractively dyed, and, along with its pleasantly sweet aroma and taste, is equally very tempting to small children and pets. It's also lethally toxic in relatively small doses, so immediately wipe up spills.) //
16 December 2008, 01:00 AM
#17
so I thought this was just the noises Subaru's made
I check my oil & water every weekend, my oil is fine and does not need topping up but over the last couple of weekends I have had to top up the coolant by about quarter of a Coca Cola bottle which is about 140ml.
How do I purge/bleed the air out of the system on a classic???
16 December 2008, 04:30 PM
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Hi mate iv got a 2006 STI SpecD, with Prodrive back box and scooby world mud-flaps and about a grands worth of ICE.
Waiting for the warranty to run out in March so I can get both cats out and replace with one sports cat and a remap by Jolly Green Monster
16 December 2008, 07:24 PM
#25
it cant be air-con can it??? thought air con was special gas stuff????
anyway its gonna be a air lock in the matrix, it doesn't matter what car you have you dont expect to hear running water, if you do hear it you know you have an air lock, THIS IS NOT NORMAL.
subaru's are also well known to be hard to bleed sucessfully.............
if you think about it, its common sense
anyway its gonna be a air lock in the matrix, it doesn't matter what car you have you dont expect to hear running water, if you do hear it you know you have an air lock, THIS IS NOT NORMAL.
subaru's are also well known to be hard to bleed sucessfully.............
if you think about it, its common sense
16 December 2008, 08:36 PM
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it cant be air-con can it??? thought air con was special gas stuff????
anyway its gonna be a air lock in the matrix, it doesn't matter what car you have you don't expect to hear running water, if you do hear it you know you have an air lock, THIS IS NOT NORMAL.
Subaru's are also well known to be hard to bleed successfully.............
if you think about it, its common sense
anyway its gonna be a air lock in the matrix, it doesn't matter what car you have you don't expect to hear running water, if you do hear it you know you have an air lock, THIS IS NOT NORMAL.
Subaru's are also well known to be hard to bleed successfully.............
if you think about it, its common sense
Not sure if its a air lock maybe a little bit of air trapped in this Matrix thing because I have no problem with the heater or the cooling of the car
16 December 2008, 10:52 PM
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Pretty much fixed
The solution I posted worked for me. The noise has pretty much gone. I plan to keep an eye on it for a few days and keep topping up the radiator as the remaining air works its way out. Whilst the noise may be common / accepted I think it's probably fixable in the same way in many cases. My lesson learned is: don't trust the coolant reservoir level, make sure the radiator is full and not air locked.
Thanks for all the posts.
Thanks for all the posts.
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