Bit of advice needed guys, for my first post on here. I've got a Type RA which has a VERY noisy bottom end (sounds like Arnie breaking rock with a 20lb sledgehammer). I've got a spare STi engine to go in, so am rebuilding that and will then do a swap. Well, that's the theory anyway. So far, I've stripped all the ancillaries off the engine, and I'm down to the block itself. I've removed all the external studs which hold the two halves of the block together, but none of my numerous sockets seem to fit the "internal" studs - the ones in the water jackets - which also hold the two halves together. I've looked through lots of old threads but no-one else mentions this as a tough problem. So, what am I missing? Do I need a special socket? thanks Geoff

Classic Type RA with Bilsteins all round, 16" Speedlines with Bridgestone, APEXi induction, HKS exhaust, Cusco rollcage, Momo steering wheel, Alcon 6 pot brake upgrade ready for fitting.

 

Just a 12 sided 14mm IIRC mate. Get a slim one and it should fit fine

 

And triple check youve undone all the bolts prior to splitting the two halfs.....

 

remember theirs a small one on the inside next to where the sump mounts!i forgot bout this wan, took me agis to realisy why my block wouldnt split, haha,

 

Tried 14mm, that's a size too big. My 13mm socket (I checked, it is 12 sided) seems to fit fairly well but as soon as I put the wrench on it, it just slips round - feels like it is very slightly rounding the corners off. More advice please? Buy another 13mm socket and try that? thx Geoff

 

You need a 12mm multipoint(12 sided) socket to fit the crankcase bolts - the ones in the water jacket can corrode sometimes,so a gentle tap with a copper mallet on your extension bar will seat the socket on the head of the bolt.
4 bolts with Dowty washers in the water jacket on the right hand side, and 2 external bolts with steel washers at the rear of No3 Cylinder(recessed).
2 bolts with Dowty washers in the water jacket on the left hand side,and 2 external short bolts with steel washers on the front of No2 cylinder by the water pump location.
7 x M8 bolts on the perimeter of the block joining faces (one in bell housing).
1 x M6 bolt inside the sump area on the Coolant Transfer Tube.

Mick

 

Sorted, I never imagined a 12mm would fit, but I started with a 12.5mm socket to get rid of the worst of the corrosion, then a 12mm, and bingo. thanks a lot guys.

 

Do I have to take the pistons out first, before splitting the block, or is it optional?

 

Yes Geoff - pistons have to come out first

 

Check my thread on Projects - DIY Budget Rebuild. I am a first timer too. I found a small bottle jack across the underside of the block just the job to split the block once all the crankcase bolts were out. If a bottle jack won't crack it, you still have a bolt in there somewhere. I knocked the piston pins through from the opposite access holes with a club hammer, a very long screwdriver and a very narrow crowbar.