-ant-

right well i have a target or 300 bhp to hit on a 96 facelift wrx.

so far i have full 3.5 inch exhaust and decat apexi filter now with a 60 mill cold air feed and a custom made alu heat sheild works brilliant to.

frount mount intercooler a tdo5 16g and mbc.

but debateable is if or not it was remaped becasue when i got it i had it all checked out at dp motorsport every thing worked fine but it run at 1.2 and every one said it must be remapped to run like that. there was no other way becuase the solinoid worked the actuator wasnt adjustable ether.
also there is the sily fact that ive ran it for a few day before now at 1.4 bar and it was fine but a slight stray over that hit fuel cut, so is ther any way of finding out whats been done.

Well im getting a pressure regulator and fuel pump next week second question is what one.


and the 3rd is what shall i do to set it up and what gauges will i need other than a my boost gauge.

also what other saftey mods can i make to ensure the fueling is going to be right ive heard about modding the fuel lines because the cylinder nearest the turbo get hotter than the rest. how is this best done .

also can some one tell me what the stock map sensor is limted to becuase i dont realy no much about them or understand it


thanks in advance anthony

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Parallel fuel mod is hte fuel line mod (don't really know if you need to do this if you want 300bhp).
Fuel pumpwise Walbro is normally the popular oneSX or Fuellab do a good line in fpr.
Gaugewise i've been informed oil pressure and AFR

I would check to see what ecu you have if it's running 1.2bar as that isn't standard and the early ecu aren't remappable unless a daughter board has been put on it.

-ant-

i thought the phase 2 engine without the twisted ic had the the mapable ecu

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

The phase 2 engine came in in 1999, yours i think is a phase 1.5 engine.
Your next mod should actually be the brakes if you have not already done so, mainly because the standard items really do suck (and i dont mean discs and pads, i mean a decent setup with 4 pots )

Tony

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

As Tony said you don't have a phase 2 engine and as he said the 2 pot brakes aren't the greatest
The only remappable standard ecus are the model year 99/00 the rest have to have a replacement ecu or on the the early cars (including yours iirc) a remappable daughter board from here Enduring Solutions Limited

-ant-

cool i didnt know that i ws told it ws was a phase 2 engine because it had the front intake and straight ic also the coil is on top of the the engine in the middle of the intake manifold aw well bummer lol.

would it be advisable or not to take a peek inside the ecu to see if it has a duaghter board or somthing then or is it to risky to damage

-ant-

yes i agree there its on the list next soon as i get the money to get a set. just want to get everything set right fueling right and engine saftey wise so its got less chance of dieing and its all in set ready for a remap in a couple of months.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Just disconnect the battery ,remove the ecu (passenger footwell under a kickplate)and see if it has anything different in it pretty sure it should look like this (pretty sure yours is a 4 pin ecu still)



Bottom rhs row of solder is normally where an extra chipset goes.
You did say you have a mbc so that may be set up to run 1.2bar

-ant-

ive fitted this recently it was all stock when i got it other than a back box and panel filter. i just fitted it so i could turn it down when the baby is in the car nothing worse than a quick pull out on junction hit boost with the baby in the back it would break the poor things neck

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Ahhh in that case something most probably has been done to the ecu think the standard boost is only about 1 bar for your car (may be wrong though)

austrianscooby

if you have 800gbp get to Andy F. and get a Power FC fitted+mapping!

Or Jollygreenmonster!

That are the 2 best ones

Greetings
Steve