Is this a MAF problem??
#1
Is this a MAF problem??
car ran ok until afew weeks ago..
when at lights the car would sometimes hunt, normally at 800rpm but its been hunting between 1300-almost 200rpm
only today first time ever whilst i was in traffic (first gear second gear) the car cut out on me
and also i noticed that whilst i drive (normally) i can sometimes feel the car judder... almost holding back (normal speeds)m if i give it more power then this effect is not so noticeable.....
think its time for a new MAF? or better still where could i go in manchester to check this out? (im in centre)
thanks for help in advance
just want to add.. iv not checked the MAF because its cold and rainy today and its pitch black as well haha but is the MAF a bosch unit?
when at lights the car would sometimes hunt, normally at 800rpm but its been hunting between 1300-almost 200rpm
only today first time ever whilst i was in traffic (first gear second gear) the car cut out on me
and also i noticed that whilst i drive (normally) i can sometimes feel the car judder... almost holding back (normal speeds)m if i give it more power then this effect is not so noticeable.....
think its time for a new MAF? or better still where could i go in manchester to check this out? (im in centre)
thanks for help in advance
just want to add.. iv not checked the MAF because its cold and rainy today and its pitch black as well haha but is the MAF a bosch unit?
#2
With your car running disconnect the plug on the MAF. If the car stalls the MAF is probably fine. If the car continues to run then the ECU as taken over the MAF's job and is going to be over fueling. This is by no way definitive, however, it is a very good indication. Good luck.
Last edited by Skooby53; 29 February 2008 at 08:05 PM.
#4
it sounds more likely to be an air leak. you can get the mafs at any decent garage with a scope, it should make over 4v when the engine is reved. if you want to check for air leaks your self, then try spraying either wd40 or brake cleaner over vac pipes etc and i the engines revs rise, youve found the leak! hope this helps?
#7
ok been out, checked car..
no air leaks and when i pull out the sensor cable the car sometimes stalls and sometimes doesnt.....
i can only presume that il need to fork out for a sensor
i hate paying for sensors they always cost £100 and they dont actually upgrade the car in way lol
no air leaks and when i pull out the sensor cable the car sometimes stalls and sometimes doesnt.....
i can only presume that il need to fork out for a sensor
i hate paying for sensors they always cost £100 and they dont actually upgrade the car in way lol
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#12
I dont wanna be funny. You guys can get a multi meter from tandy for less than a tenner....All you have to choose is the straight and dotted line DC volts and you can do anything an "auto electrician" can do. Ill help for free!
#13
Nope 95 Maf and 2000 MAF are different and not interchangeable.
MY00 is more fragile,but is cheaper. 95 is more robust, but expensive.
I would go for a new MY00 MAF if I was you - £80 squid or so?
MY00 is more fragile,but is cheaper. 95 is more robust, but expensive.
I would go for a new MY00 MAF if I was you - £80 squid or so?
#14
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after reading this thread I unplugged the maf and now the check engine light is always on... ( it's a my02 wrx bugeye )
think I have to go to the dealer now...
think I have to go to the dealer now...
#16
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That's what reading forums does:
The "unplug" test is dodgy at best in terms of determining any fault.
New age cars will show a check engine light and remain lit after reconnection. The MAF needs to be plugged back in and the car needs to go through three consecutive driving cycles (cold start, drive until warm, warm driving, then turn off. Repeat x 3 ), afterwhich the "check engine" light will turn off on its own (presuming there is no actual fault). However the code will remain logged in the ECU memory.
The "unplug" test is dodgy at best in terms of determining any fault.
New age cars will show a check engine light and remain lit after reconnection. The MAF needs to be plugged back in and the car needs to go through three consecutive driving cycles (cold start, drive until warm, warm driving, then turn off. Repeat x 3 ), afterwhich the "check engine" light will turn off on its own (presuming there is no actual fault). However the code will remain logged in the ECU memory.
#18
for my classic, iv changed the maf and reset ecu, no probs
for some reason tho if im driving steady accelerating the car still feels as tho its on an edge and wants to go but sort of doesnt... kinda holding back but its not the maf, i read somewhere this is wot the classic r like when they near the boost................. but the hunting is gone so all is good
for some reason tho if im driving steady accelerating the car still feels as tho its on an edge and wants to go but sort of doesnt... kinda holding back but its not the maf, i read somewhere this is wot the classic r like when they near the boost................. but the hunting is gone so all is good
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