Running it in
09 January 2008, 09:44 PM
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Running it in
Im building a 2.5 at the mo just waitin for the rest of the bits to b deliverd but i wantd to know how many miles i have got to do to run it in and if i shud start to push slighty when it has been run in so many miles?
10 January 2008, 07:02 PM
#3
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Well I've just run mine in and had it mapped by Bob.
I did the first 200 miles at up to 3k revs
then the next 300 miles up to 3.5k revs
then the next 300 miles to 4k revs.
then an oil change to semi (get the sludge oil out)
then the next 300 miles up to 4.5k revs
then the next 300 miles up to 5k revs
then the next 300 miles up to 5.5k revs
then the next 300 miles up to 6k revs
Then just kept piling on the miles till I could meet up with Bob.
4000 miles later in total from build (which was only realistically 5 weeks) I had another oil change to fully and then 2 days later Bob mapped me up.
Running in instructions were from Bob
I did the first 200 miles at up to 3k revs
then the next 300 miles up to 3.5k revs
then the next 300 miles to 4k revs.
then an oil change to semi (get the sludge oil out)
then the next 300 miles up to 4.5k revs
then the next 300 miles up to 5k revs
then the next 300 miles up to 5.5k revs
then the next 300 miles up to 6k revs
Then just kept piling on the miles till I could meet up with Bob.
4000 miles later in total from build (which was only realistically 5 weeks) I had another oil change to fully and then 2 days later Bob mapped me up.
Running in instructions were from Bob
10 January 2008, 07:44 PM
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I'm going to be fitting a 2.5 in my car in the next few weeks, spoke to JGM and the guy who is fitting the engine (ex-prodrive) and was told to use my ECU and injectors the car is currently setup for, have the turbo actuator disconnected so the turbo doesn't spool at all.
Do 1000 miles of steady driving up to 2K revs for the first 200 miles gradualy increasing 3K for 300 miles etc, with the odd blip up to 5k to de-glaze the bores.
Use a mineral oil when running to help it wear/bed-in, then swap to a good fully synthetic oil.
Do 1000 miles of steady driving up to 2K revs for the first 200 miles gradualy increasing 3K for 300 miles etc, with the odd blip up to 5k to de-glaze the bores.
Use a mineral oil when running to help it wear/bed-in, then swap to a good fully synthetic oil.
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10 January 2008, 08:04 PM
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I'm going to be fitting a 2.5 in my car in the next few weeks, spoke to JGM and the guy who is fitting the engine (ex-prodrive) and was told to use my ECU and injectors the car is currently setup for, have the turbo actuator disconnected so the turbo doesn't spool at all.
Do 1000 miles of steady driving up to 2K revs for the first 200 miles gradualy increasing 3K for 300 miles etc, with the odd blip up to 5k to de-glaze the bores.
Use a mineral oil when running to help it wear/bed-in, then swap to a good fully synthetic oil.
Do 1000 miles of steady driving up to 2K revs for the first 200 miles gradualy increasing 3K for 300 miles etc, with the odd blip up to 5k to de-glaze the bores.
Use a mineral oil when running to help it wear/bed-in, then swap to a good fully synthetic oil.
Doesnt the actuator open the wastegate?? So if you disconnect it the wastegate will remain shut which is not a good idea. Did this on my 5 GT for a laugh, went well for about 20 mins till I cracked a liner lol.
Im unsure about what to do when I get a 2.5 as I will be getting a new turbo at the same time so shall I run the turbo I have now untill the engine is run in then put the new one on for mapping?? Also will it be ok to drive and run in on the map im running on my current 2 liter engine as long as I dont put it under load or go high in the revs?
10 January 2008, 08:32 PM
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I think he means connect the boosst source pipe from front on the turbo directly to the actuator so it can't boost more than the actuator pressure.
with Wiesco pistons, forged rods and ACl race series bearing.
11 January 2008, 02:02 PM
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But i will double check that before the engine is built up.
11 January 2008, 07:05 PM
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Would work to stop making boost, but my understanding is boost is necessary to help bed the rings in properly.
As per the cobb advice up to 8 psi 0.5 Bar during the later stages of run in.
So think is is best to keep the actuator connected, unless you can't trust yourself
As per the cobb advice up to 8 psi 0.5 Bar during the later stages of run in.
So think is is best to keep the actuator connected, unless you can't trust yourself
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