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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 11:10 PM
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Default Engine Warning Light

Evening all ! , Ive just txt my engine warning light and its came up 24-idle air control solenoid, 33-vehicle speed sensor 2, 13-camshaft sensor, everything is ok when driving apart from in the morning or left for a few hrs its a pain to start usually 3 to 4 attempts, im going to reset ecu, any ideas on what bit it would be cheers
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 01:17 PM
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What type, model year, source UK, JDM?

VSS 2 will usually come up in early cable drives while the car is not moving..can ignore. IAC is a worry as is Cam Sensor.

Reset of ECU will not solve it (I presume you mean battery disconnect) if there is a real problem, just clear the volatile memory, the (real) errors should still remain in the non-volatile memory of the ECU (the one that a Select Monitor can access or by joining the right connectors) and even if you do clear them they will return if the faulty part is not replaced first.
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 01:32 PM
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difficult to start when cold or left for a bit is most likely cam or crank position sensor.. try cleaning them both..

Simon
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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Hi yeah my mate at hes garage has had a look did the engine codes to they came up, 24-idle air control valve, 33-vehicle speed sensor 2, 12-starter switch, but he does not have any info on these and what figures he needs if he tests them as dosent work on scoobies but wants to know,

He thinks none of them shouldnt stop it from starting tho, ive reset the ecu by attaching cables together and nothing has come up yet no engine check light, so we still dont know what it is that is causing it not to start 1st thing i morning.....
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 10:21 PM
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Ok, since you've got the IAC twice I'd be having a good look at that. They can coke up and need cleaning depending on the model (93 to 97 or 98) had the valve on one of the passenger side inlet manifold runners. It's a fairly chunky device with 3 bolts of different lengths, 2 water hoses from the demister circuit and a 3 wire plug. DO NOT alter the adjustment of the electrical bit on the top....DONT TOUCH the phillips head screws. Unbolt from the manifold (try not to damage the gasket) and carefully remove. There is a thick rubber washer and a round reed valve on the inside that may stick to the manifold, remove them carefully and note the orientation to replace. Clean everything with a contact cleaner spray and clean rag then replace.
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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ive cleaned that and the camshaft sensor, but still has a problem starting, im wondering if its the temperature sensor for the ecu, but that didnt come up, when it dose start it stinks over fuellinh then within a min its ok and ticks over fine im puzzled need help
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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usual sign of temp sensor is the rad fans on when engine is cold.. but usually an error code registered at that point..

deffo worth checking it though.

Simon
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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Cheers folks its so puzzling, would it have anythiing to do with the starter switch that came up on the ecu, but once its started it always starts fine !!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 05:28 AM
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Know this sounds funny, but thought about using some electrical grade contact cleaner on the AFM sensors one of them is an air temp sense and all are subject to probs if any blow by gets on them?

Just what you said about over-fueling, also get it started and warmed and get a long (about a foot) screwdriver (flat blade) and put the blade on each injector cover and listen on the handle (stick yer ear right on it) for any variation in the ticking or no ticking from any injector. Sometimes you can get one that's a bit sticky.

I had a similar overfueling problem with my V3 and part of the problem was damaged injector O rings....******* took ages to find.

Also try another O2 sensor if you have one around.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:06 PM
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Right i changed my temp sensor for ecu yesterday,
even tho it didnt come up on ecu as a fault, the engine light has gone out but this morning car wouldnt start again straight away and engine light comes on with it once warm and out for a run the light goes out, also when starting from cold its like the choke isnt on,

im still stuck on why it wont start when left for a while and ive only done 80miles to a full tank of fuel
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:12 PM
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it was the square plugged sensor not the spade connector one?

lambda sensor causing over fuelling.. difficult to start as the plugs are now black..

Simon
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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Yeah i got a new temp sensor the square connector one it dove perfect yesterday, its just getting it to start once warm its fine, will have to check lambda sensor, misses couldnt believe how much petrol it went through its a joke, thought about getting new plugs this morning to whats a good priced ones to get for classic wrx import.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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NGK PFR6B's.. sparkplugs.co.uk

if using lots of fuel also check intercooler pipes for leaks.

Simon
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:25 PM
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cheers matey, just wanna get it all sorted now its bugging me loads
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:28 PM
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not surprized.. can be a pain in the butt to find a problem like this!
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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worse thing is its probably somet so simple when i do find it lol !!!
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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Sorted my engine warnign light problem out, cleaned all sensors connectors etc and it dosent come on, just still dosent wanna start but im thinking as its over fuelling the lambda sensor is knackerd almost and spark plugs could do with a change and hopefully it should work.........
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