Snapped plug in engine!!!
#1
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Snapped plug in engine!!!
Tried to change the plugs in my car tonight and the plug in cyl no1 has not so much as snapped, but dissintergrated the bits show that it was the wrong plug anyway, a PFR 6G as opposed to a PFR 6B like the others, and it looks like it has been cross threaded when it was put in
The engine had been built a few years ago by a very well known company that underwent a change of management, just thought i'd share this with you all, so you can see that not all companys were as they seem so be aware!
I now need to take the engine out in order to fix this, as i'm sure that it can't be done in situ, unless anyone knows different?
The engine had been built a few years ago by a very well known company that underwent a change of management, just thought i'd share this with you all, so you can see that not all companys were as they seem so be aware!
I now need to take the engine out in order to fix this, as i'm sure that it can't be done in situ, unless anyone knows different?
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engine out head off unfortunatly, then remove and tap the plug hole, or possibly a new head casing if damage is bad or it has cracked. Unless you can get the plug out and be sure no debris has dropped into the cylinder.
Difficult to blame a company that did an engine rebuild on it, if a while back as the plugs could have been changed since etc.. unless only you work on the car etc..
Simon
Difficult to blame a company that did an engine rebuild on it, if a while back as the plugs could have been changed since etc.. unless only you work on the car etc..
Simon
#3
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You could re-tap with the engine in situte, there is just enough space, not ideal but worth a crack!
Also to actually shatter the insulator you must have been on the plug pissed with the socket.
Also to actually shatter the insulator you must have been on the plug pissed with the socket.
Last edited by [Davey]; 14 July 2006 at 11:27 AM.
#5
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I assume he means the insulator broke up, thats what it sounds like anyway so the electrode is still in one piece.. Most of the swarf will be drawn out after combustion. Yes its a risk to take but hell life is all about risks
#7
Originally Posted by [Davey]
You could re-tap with the engine in situte, there is just enough space, not ideal but worth a crack!
Also to actually shatter the insulator you must have been on the plug pissed with the socket.
Also to actually shatter the insulator you must have been on the plug pissed with the socket.
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#8
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Rather ironic considering most people take their cars to main dealers that employe straight out of college monkeys who just about know which end of the spanner to use
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Originally Posted by [Davey]
Rather ironic considering most people take their cars to main dealers that employ straight out of college monkeys who just about know which end of the spanner to use
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Is it only the ceramic and centre electrode disintegrated and the outer part of the plug is still in place? If so why cannot you still unscrew the remainder (i.e. outer part which the spanner goes on? If not then a stud extractor might get the rest out (basically a tapered left-handed thread which locks into the hole).
If the plug is out but the thread possibly or definitely damaged then a tap run through might sort it out.
Still a bit of a risk with the debris, though, but I would take it.
Neil
If the plug is out but the thread possibly or definitely damaged then a tap run through might sort it out.
Still a bit of a risk with the debris, though, but I would take it.
Neil
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I know the plugs havn't been changed since the rebuild and its only done 15k since then as well.
What has happened to the plug is that the threaded part has remained attatched to the threads in the head and the rest of the plug has just fell apart. The ceramic hasn't snapped but just separated from the threaded part, even the nut in which you use to tighten the plug can now slip off the main body of the electrode.
I'm sure that it has been cross threaded when put in, and that is why i now have problems.
I will be taking the engine out just so i can make sure that it is repaired properly and that the threads are not ruined, the last thing i want is to get it out and damage the head as well in doing so, i will just have to take the opportunity to make sure all in the engine as good as it should be.
Cheers for the replies Gents, i do know the risks, but i'd just be much happier knowing it has been done properly and to a high standard
What has happened to the plug is that the threaded part has remained attatched to the threads in the head and the rest of the plug has just fell apart. The ceramic hasn't snapped but just separated from the threaded part, even the nut in which you use to tighten the plug can now slip off the main body of the electrode.
I'm sure that it has been cross threaded when put in, and that is why i now have problems.
I will be taking the engine out just so i can make sure that it is repaired properly and that the threads are not ruined, the last thing i want is to get it out and damage the head as well in doing so, i will just have to take the opportunity to make sure all in the engine as good as it should be.
Cheers for the replies Gents, i do know the risks, but i'd just be much happier knowing it has been done properly and to a high standard
Last edited by scoobysmiff; 14 July 2006 at 03:27 PM.
#12
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If the "nut" part of the plug has sheered off the threaded (electrode) end then some twazok has done it up WAY too tight in the first place, some people find it necessary to do up spark plugs soo damned tight when they only need to be hand tight then an extra quarter turn or so, that's what the crush washer is for! Makes me cringe when I'm trying to undo a spark plug that someone has virtually torqued up to 100ft/lb..
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Originally Posted by [Davey]
If the "nut" part of the plug has sheered off the threaded (electrode) end then some twazok has done it up WAY too tight in the first place, some people find it necessary to do up spark plugs soo damned tight when they only need to be hand tight then an extra quarter turn or so, that's what the crush washer is for! Makes me cringe when I'm trying to undo a spark plug that someone has virtually torqued up to 100ft/lb..
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I know and that someone was me, and they did charge me about 2k in the end, but it still took them 4 attempts to stop it from over heating as well. there is no way they could call themselevs professional and be able to justify it in my opinion.
I work in a professional enviroment and would not ever consider work to this standard to be acceptable.
I work in a professional enviroment and would not ever consider work to this standard to be acceptable.
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i'm not sure it's valid now as the company that did it are no longer under the same management, and the guys who built it no longer work there, the company name is however still up and running and is well known for an aftermarket exhaust and used to be in Basildon.
But i will stress it wasn't the people who own it now.
But i will stress it wasn't the people who own it now.
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yeah i know, but like i said, it has nothing to do with them that own it now. them that were there before have a lot to answer for in my opinion, and my opinion has been formed through previous experience!!!
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