fuel rail/injector swap..?
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fuel rail/injector swap..?
Thinking of giving this a go myself. Had a quick recce this evening and after removing air cleaner box and IC, repositioning coolant header and wash res. tank it looks straight forward (can see and access all bolts on the 'Green brackets of death'). However, the only part I'm unsure of is how do you move fuel rails, after undoing the retaining bolts, when they're fed by rigid fuel lines..?
N/S looks ok as there is some flexi piping ~10cm from the outlet of the rail and on the feed side the bracket can be removed. This should (I hope) allow enough movement of the rail to remove injectors..
The O/S has rigid supply and return pipes (with reg.) so HTF are you supposed to move the rail..?
I'm probably being dense and it's quite obvious, so any help is greatly appreciated..
Jason
N/S looks ok as there is some flexi piping ~10cm from the outlet of the rail and on the feed side the bracket can be removed. This should (I hope) allow enough movement of the rail to remove injectors..
The O/S has rigid supply and return pipes (with reg.) so HTF are you supposed to move the rail..?
I'm probably being dense and it's quite obvious, so any help is greatly appreciated..
Jason
#2
make sure if you get any fuel at all into the bores you take plugs out and turn over to shove it out or you will hydraulic the engine (and at the worst might bend a rod)... in your post it seems like you wanting to move the rails where to ,or what for you cannot move the rails , you can modify the pipes to them ,what are you tryng to do , pm me if you want
gazza
gazza
#4
now we know what model it is on that makes it clearer , i am not sure on this model got to be honest , i still dont know what iirc means my guess is bolted to underside of inlet manifold ...
#5
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I have just put these onto mine.
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/fuelrails.jpg
Its not a cheap mind you.
Rails £130 or £80 exchange from www.mocomracing.com
The SX FPR was £160
Goodridge -6 fittings and braided hose £250
heres a pic taken just before the rebuild was completed but will give you a general idea
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/almostfinished1.jpg
Hope that helps
Daz
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/fuelrails.jpg
Its not a cheap mind you.
Rails £130 or £80 exchange from www.mocomracing.com
The SX FPR was £160
Goodridge -6 fittings and braided hose £250
heres a pic taken just before the rebuild was completed but will give you a general idea
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/almostfinished1.jpg
Hope that helps
Daz
#6
hi daz was reading your project your not far away from me i live in rotherham just done a fairly big buid myself . email me on gazza@home17466.fsnet.co.uk
i will send you some pics maybe swap some ideas was goin to pm you before ... sorry for pinching thread i bit ... daz like i said now we know what year car we on about now ..
gazza
i will send you some pics maybe swap some ideas was goin to pm you before ... sorry for pinching thread i bit ... daz like i said now we know what year car we on about now ..
gazza
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cheers Daz/Gaz..
Looks good and thought about going down the parallel fuel mod route but for what I'm after it was a bit over the top. Nearly bought some nice looking Perrin rails from US at a silly price but, thought better of it..
I know that the injectors on newage cars (ie top feed) can be changed without removing intake manifold, just not sure about this bit..! Knowing how much the rails need to be moved to remove injectors would be a start. My thoughts are that they need to come out completely.
BTW iirc = If I Remember Correctly
BTW= By The Way (just in case IYSWIM ..)
Looks good and thought about going down the parallel fuel mod route but for what I'm after it was a bit over the top. Nearly bought some nice looking Perrin rails from US at a silly price but, thought better of it..
I know that the injectors on newage cars (ie top feed) can be changed without removing intake manifold, just not sure about this bit..! Knowing how much the rails need to be moved to remove injectors would be a start. My thoughts are that they need to come out completely.
BTW iirc = If I Remember Correctly
BTW= By The Way (just in case IYSWIM ..)
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#8
thanks mate , sure injectors top feeds only shove in so far have a look on a pic of some on a site some where . look for a o ring seal ... oh also put a drop of vasoline on the rubbers when you put them back in they wont snag then and or leak .
#9
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I've only done it when taking off the manifold for another job.
From what I remember, if the forward facing TGV pump and throttle sensor are taken off, all rail bolts to TGV bodies are removed and the bolts undone between the inlet manifold and TGV bodies, then each side of the manifold can be lifted up by an inch or so.
This will raise the rails enough to pull out the injectors.
Be careful replacing the TGV pump/sensor as it has to aligned correctly.
Nick
From what I remember, if the forward facing TGV pump and throttle sensor are taken off, all rail bolts to TGV bodies are removed and the bolts undone between the inlet manifold and TGV bodies, then each side of the manifold can be lifted up by an inch or so.
This will raise the rails enough to pull out the injectors.
Be careful replacing the TGV pump/sensor as it has to aligned correctly.
Nick
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Originally Posted by Butty
I've only done it when taking off the manifold for another job.
From what I remember, if the forward facing TGV pump and throttle sensor are taken off, all rail bolts to TGV bodies are removed and the bolts undone between the inlet manifold and TGV bodies, then each side of the manifold can be lifted up by an inch or so.
This will raise the rails enough to pull out the injectors.
Be careful replacing the TGV pump/sensor as it has to aligned correctly.
Nick
From what I remember, if the forward facing TGV pump and throttle sensor are taken off, all rail bolts to TGV bodies are removed and the bolts undone between the inlet manifold and TGV bodies, then each side of the manifold can be lifted up by an inch or so.
This will raise the rails enough to pull out the injectors.
Be careful replacing the TGV pump/sensor as it has to aligned correctly.
Nick
I'll have to reappraise the DIY approach now..!
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