The Rig

iTrader: (13)

and i see alot of people running at 1.1 bar etc, well, when im driving at say 80 mph, the boost is at about 0.4, before this its below 0 on gauge at about 500 ?!!?

never did get boost gauges......

[Davey]

You shouldnt see any boost until the turbo spools up after about 2k, at full chat you should be getting between 0.9 and 1.1 bar depending on the year.

If your only seeing half a bar then the car is probably in limp home mode or the diagnostic plugs are connected (green ones).. does the cooling fan pulse when the ignition is on and the engine is not running?

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Or it could be connected wrong.
If it splices into the actuator hose you will only see actuator pressure, which is about half.
If you are running a standard car it should be 0.8 - 1.0 bar depending on make/model.

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

it is running like a spud at times, misfires at low revs or even high revs, but not all the time, 4 out of 5 really, bops/backfires when i change UP gears too at times, running rich i think,bloody imports.....

gonna remove dump valve and induction kit and go back standard.......

[Davey]

Hmmm sounds like your search for the perfect White-RA didnt go as planned?

Does the check engine light come on with the ignition then go out once you've started the engine?

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

no check lite etc, i think i mite be talking crap, just relooked at gauge, when i was giving it beans it did go to the 0.9 bit, at that speed i wasnt really looking at dial, but remember it was at 12 oclock, where 0.9 is

but when im chlling at about 2k the needle is below 0 at 500 or 750, is that rite ?

cheers....

[Davey]

It should never go below zero with the throttle open (there is no vacum).

Are you saying you dont get the check light on AT ALL, not even before starting??

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Wrong, it will be below zero on light throttle applications. Probably about <1/4 throttle.

You should be able to bring the revs up at upto 1/4 throttle to about 3,000rpm. At the point you should be at about 0 psi/bar.

It's also around this point that the ECU switches from closed to open loop operation.

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Ai, thats what its like, on very slight throttle only chillin on motorway

Davey, you scared me LOL

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

This is the gauge at idle.

Butty

iTrader: (2)

Someones pulled the check light bulb out??

Nick

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

nope,that lights up when ignition is on.

what should boost be at idle then chaps ?

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

-0.5bar (ish)
Your gauge probably measure in mm mercury on vacum which will be approx -500.
My Apexi reads -490 (ish)

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

so my reading is spot on then ?

What if ?

mine reads about -18 PSI at tickover (-1.24Bar (I think)) when holding a steady 70MPH on motorway it is still slightly on th "-" but as soon as I accellerate it goes "+" pressure. Gear changes has it swinging from -20 to +20 then dropping back at full revs to 16/17 PSI. So I get a peak pressure of 20 PSI - (1.38 BAR) and min 16 PSI at full revs (1.10 BAR). I have a MY05 STI PPP if that helps.

[Davey]

@TheRig, is your dash a different colour to your door cards?? our WRX has got the same colour dash as yours but the door cards look darker..

MarksWRX

I didnt think it was possible to go below -1.0 bar.

Butty

iTrader: (2)

What if?s guage is reading Inches Hg, not PSI for vacuum.
-18 In Hg is -8.8 PSI which is normal.
The dual unit gauges can be very confusing.

What if ?

ooo errr, I didn't realise it was different units below the zero it only says PSI on the gauge, I will have a closer look later to see if it quote a different unit of measure in the Minus numbers. As they say, you learn something every day, I feel more intelligent already ! Cheers Butty for th enlightenment.