Hi everyone. I'm in need of a bit of advice on how to best run in a new engine.
I'm hopefully fitting my new engine into my car this weekend which means i should have it all back on the road by monday (tax insurance etc).
The engine is literally brand new now.. New block, crank, pistons, rods etc etc and so i want to make sure i run it in right as i really don;t want to have to do it again!

So if anyone can advise me of the best way to do this it would be really appreciated.

Also should i use a different oil while im running the car in and if so what oil would be recommended.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Asked this a while back... found this a interesting read... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
But no doubt this will be like opening a can of worms sort of question...

 

you used to able to buy running in oil from the big engine parts/rebuild centers. The last time i did it it was less than 4k revs, No more than 50mph, 1000 miles.
Its a real pain to be honest. I found myself using a load of petrol in 1 week. On the plus side i went to more tourist sites in that week than ever before or since.
I used rotherham engine center/ rotherham rebores. You need to find somewhere like that where you live.

 

cheers for the replies. I'll have a look round here for anywhere that does anything similar. It seems that everyone thinks something different about running in engines. Its really confusing!! i think im definalty going to be visiting all the tourist spots in the first week too!!

 

Millers oils sell a running in oil iirc

 

cheers for the advice on the oil. I've ordered some now. Saved me loads of time looking round for where to get it so thanks again

 

Running in oil can be purchased but any decent mineral oil can be used.
This should be used for the first 1000 miles and then swapped for a semi
synthetic, only after around 3000 miles should a fully sythentic oil be used.

Hope this helps.

Rob

 

ok scoob running in for rebuilds,
1000 miles no boost, 3.5k limit to rpm, no speed limit as such (just limited by revs)

oil change check over limiter removed max boost 1bar but don't just go out and thrash living daylights out of it, and also dont just do 1000 miles at one speed boost level, varied driving different loads

1000 miles then change oil check over and final map settings bar limit removed (although limited byt engine spec etc). car run in

 

cheers guys. I've been told that you should give the car a quick blast as soon as you get it up to temperature for the first time in order to make the piston rings seal to the bore properly... Anyone got any ideas on weather this is a good idea?? sounds a bit strange to me..
Seems like i've almost got this thing sorted now with the help of all you top guys!!

 

when i built my engine in my old gt turbo the engineer that did a bit of work for me and got me all my internal parts said with modern pistons etc you should rev it hard to open the rings up..i didnt i just drove it off boost under 3k revs for about 500miles then slowly built the revs up then after 100miles i used her on boost then gradually built that up too..never let me down once!

 

Not sure about that piston ring thing. Ive never heard that but it could be true. When you push the piston into the bore the rings are too big to fit in anyway. You use a piston ring compressor (like a big jubilee clip). You give it a good oiling inside then clamp the rings with it. You then place it over the bore and push the piston into the bore with a hammer shaft (piece of wood) Once in the bore the rings should open up the the bore diameter ,they have a bit of a spring in them anyway and will try to open to thier natural position ie the shape they were made in. their natural position will be wider than the bore. Once in the bore the ring will be in less than its natural position hence the ring is always trying to open therefore pushing against the side of the bore. Not having a garage for the last 10 years ive not rebuilt an engine to be honest. The last one i did was a CVH engine on a Mk III RS Turbo.