cam locking tool
#2
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Had my cambelt changed by Subaru, when speaking to the service manager he said Subaru only did one for the right hand cam sprockets and that he had ordered a universal tool to do the left hand side. I know that Seally tools do a number of cam locking tools could be worth a look. Best of luck Steve
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you don't need to hold the cam wheels..
from memory do the bottom right idler wheel as the last thing.. you can hold all the cam wheels with the belt then..
The right ones when looking at the engine are the only ones "on cam" and therefore move is not help.. the left side sit still.
Simon
from memory do the bottom right idler wheel as the last thing.. you can hold all the cam wheels with the belt then..
The right ones when looking at the engine are the only ones "on cam" and therefore move is not help.. the left side sit still.
Simon
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As simon says.,..... also worthy of note is the fact that apparently the pistons are halfway down the bore when all the timing marks line up, so there's no fear of bending valves etc!!
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According to the service documentation I've read inlet and exhaust valves can mechanically interfere with each other resulting in bent valves if the respective sprockets are rotated independently (i.e. when the belt is not fitted).
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you can bend valves on the right hand side (as looking at the engine) if the inlet and exhaust cams get turned the wrong way.
Set the inlet cam for 2 and 4 by turning clockwise, and set the exhaust cam for 2 and 4 by turning anticlockwise. These will then be on cam.
Set the inlet and exhaust cams for 1 and 3 in any way (least resistance)
Put all pulleys in place except for the one bottom left of the crank.
Start belt at crank, then line up at inlet of 2 and 4, then exhaust of 2 and 4, then exhaust of 1 and 3, then inlet of 1 and 3.
Then pushing the belt upwards, install the idler that sits bottom left of the crank.
Set the inlet cam for 2 and 4 by turning clockwise, and set the exhaust cam for 2 and 4 by turning anticlockwise. These will then be on cam.
Set the inlet and exhaust cams for 1 and 3 in any way (least resistance)
Put all pulleys in place except for the one bottom left of the crank.
Start belt at crank, then line up at inlet of 2 and 4, then exhaust of 2 and 4, then exhaust of 1 and 3, then inlet of 1 and 3.
Then pushing the belt upwards, install the idler that sits bottom left of the crank.
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may seem like a daft question this, but can you not put your own marks on the pulleys and the block before you remove the belt and then you can make sure they are lined up to these marks before you put the new belt on? or do the cams jump without the belt?
#10
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I did the belt on the WRX last week, it took just over 1 hour, no pulley locking tool required.
You dont need the cam locking tool if you fit the belt in a manor that puts the opposite tension on the cam pulleys. Its a bit fiddly but it can be done with ease.
You dont need the cam locking tool if you fit the belt in a manor that puts the opposite tension on the cam pulleys. Its a bit fiddly but it can be done with ease.
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