Heple

Fitted this as above.

Connected signal wire to Lamda/o2 sensor wire

Connected black to earth

Connected Red to ignition live

The sensor seams to work fine for the initial 10-20secs (with one led lit and the two leds lit either side of it but dimmer) moving from the bottom end of stoich to the bottom end of rich as i increase revs. It then starts to filicker between the bottom most red LED and the top most green LED very fast (like KIT's grill LED off knightrider but faster!! ) lighting up all the red & green LED's almost continually at points because its flickering so quickly.

The only time it seems to work is when i've got my foot down then it lights up 1 green light and to green lights either side but slightly dimmer.

Hope you understand what i mean

I presume this isn't working correctly.

Could my signal wire be recieving interference from other wires?


Craig

rigga

iTrader: (4)

no its working fine....in general driving conditions the lights will flicker all over the place as the ecu is constantly adjusting the fuel for emmissions purposes...only at full throttle will it stay constant at the green rich section (hopefully if the car is running ok) and thats the only relevent time its worth its use...on cold start it will be sluggish in movement as it takes a little while for the lambda to heat up to operating temp and give the right signal

martin

Heple

Thats exactly what it does.

So it most be working ok then. Its pretty distracting dont know whether am gonna keep it. its not really telling me much unless i'm under full throttle and in that case i dont wanna be looking at a guage.

Cheers for the help

Craig

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Full throttle is where the gauges are needed!

Boost, AFR, EGTs, Oil temps etc don't get critical pootling along

pslewis

Air Fuel Ratio Meter ... 20 LED ... looks like KnightRider!!

Foooook me another fool and his money parted

Like taking candy from a baby ..... good god!!

Pete

rigga

iTrader: (4)

Took your time pete.......

Heple

That was just for descriptive purposes.

Didn't think you would need to look in this forum Pete seeing as you don't agree with modifying your car.

Why don't you stay in the "ScoobyNet General" forum with all the other muppets who post pointless comments in other people's threads.

Heple

Thanks for your help mate.

It is good when under full throttle, it just very distracting when not under full throttle. You never know i might get used to it.

Craig

rigga

iTrader: (4)

i did,it dont bother me at all now,just keep an eye on it when you give the car a blat.... as long as a steady green is showing,its running rich enough

martin

silent running

That's exactly how it works. I had one right in front of my face on the A-pillar and you just get used to it. Although I had it on a switch, so most of the time I had it off, I only switched it on when I was on track / autobahn / drag racing. At full throttle is the only time you really need it if you're that worried about your AFR.

Just watch that is stays rich at full throttle and you're in the clear. And for once I do have to disagree with you here Pete...I think a Knocklink is a waste of time in a road car, but AFR...it has its uses for road cars that are really driven enthusiastically with a lot of full throttle.

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

My gauge instead of showing 0-1 volt in 0.05 steps, shows between 0.78 and 0.98 volts in 0.01v steps, it eliminates the knightrider effect. I ordered it from the US and stumbled across it looking for black face/black bezel AFR meters, details in my project thread if anyone is interested