Geoff Twibell

Our '98 UK turbo is at this moment having the engine removed and stripped to identify the cause of a bad knock from No.4 cylinder. Everything points to piston slap.

With only 28,000 genuine miles on the clock (6 of those in the last 4 months) I'm wondering what else is worth doing while the motor is out. A service is an obvious item on the list since oil is going to be changed whatever. But I reckon the cambelt (which presumably will have to come off) is another favourite, maybe plugs (hard to get to normally?) and clutch are probably worthwhile bets too.

Just want to make the most of jobs that are going to be a lot cheaper before the engine goes back.

GeoffT.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Plugs isn't "that" hard to get at, and cambelt is pretty easy in situ. Clutch is a main one, but even that isn't a "big" job for a good garage as it's a straight forward job to do with the car in the air.

Main ones IMO is if the oil breather cover plate on the back of engine leaks or the sump . (my breather leaks....supposed to be sealed with automotive grade silcone...Some assembly worker at the Subaru factory didn't use enough on mine ).

Head gaskets (only if needed), and rocker cover seals (obviously) and also if you have any noisy tappets - sort them now whilst the engine is out or hold your peace .

As a note...if it is piston slap, and it dissapears within 30mins of running from cold...I'd save your money and wait for something else to break.

Geoff Twibell

Wish the slap did go away when the engine's hot but sadly it doesn't, it just gets a little bit quieter. And it's loud enough when cold - especially about 10 minutes from starting - to cause people to turn around and look. I'm hoping the warranty company are going to cough up (we're the second owners and only bought the car four months ago). But worst case we only have to pay for parts. Clutch and cambelt are going to be checked - and replaced if need be.

Thanks for the advice on the other bits. I hadn't thought about tappets...

GeoffT.

scoobfan

Replace all your old hoses with lovely new Samco's.

It's a barsteward with the engine in situe, but easy once out.

It's what I had done when I had my rebuild, peace of mind but
they also look the biz.

Rob

Oldfella

iTrader: (3)

Or you could go way over the top and paint the engine bay

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

I'd do the cambelt and tensioner if its a MY98, do you know if its been changed before?

dj219957

flywheel may bennifit from a skim if you have any judder in the clutch

STI5300

iTrader: (4)

Stick in a couple of Group N engine Mounts, a sod of a job when everything is back in place.

[Davey]

Cam & Crank shaft (front and back) seals, Rocker cover gaskets.

STI Craig

make sure a triple plate metal head gasket is fitted its only £5 more than the standard one but much better (last longer)

Geoff Twibell

Thanks all for the useful suggestions. I spoke with the garage yesterday and they're phoning me before they start re-assembly. I will have a better idea then how much I'll have spare (or not if the warranty company doesn't pay up) and I'll work through the list.

The garage did mention flywheel already and it sounds like a good idea. Errrr - does anyone have a clutch that doesn't judder? This is our third Impreza and they've all done it after a while.

GeoffT

[Davey]

Ours judders..

andy97

iTrader: (1)

get an exedy organic, no judder, silky smooth and can take 400lbft torque. Get the flywheel skimmed if you change the clutch. Api is the place to get them clutch and skimmed flywheel

scoobfan

I used to have Judder even when hot, but since I had a lightened flywheel fitted by API it's gone !!

Rob