keen dean

My car was missing ever so slightly, so I thought it may be the maf, with the engine off, I removed the wire/clip to the Maf, and started the car, it than very high and at uneven revs.
Turned off, connected MAF, started car. Checked Ecu fault codes and it gave the MAF error, so I reset the Ecu but connecting the black and green connectors and drove down the road. The CEL flashed on and off every half second. I then switched off then disconnected the green and black plugs. When I then drive the car, and have tried 2-3 times now it seems to be ruuning v low boost, I tried checking the ecu faulyt codes and there is no errors. Whil looking under the dash, there also seems to be a couple of wires connecting to nothing at all which come out the same bunch of wires as the green and black connectors (test and reset connectors) Any idea anyone on these wires?


Any ideas as to why it's now running low boost now?


TIA

dieard

HI,

i reset mine all the time,
your car will run like crap and low boost etc after an ecu reset,
it can take your anythin between 50-100 miles to learn back its perimeters,

when you have reset it, go on a straight road,
in 3rd gear drive the car only just on boost for about 20 secs (you may nedd to use brake with left foot to do this,)
then do the same in 4th gear.
now drive senisbley for about 50 miles, try not to hammer it or use too much boost,

this will advance the resseting of your ecu.

keen dean

Thanks, saves me worrying

Brun

Why?

dieard

as in all the time , i mean prob once per month,

I figure that if i replace anyhting, like a maf, then it will need to learn the specifics back,

plus if your ecu has detected and fault codes, then you have to reset the ecu to clear these codes from the memory or it will be giving false info,

do ya know what i mean?

dieard

oh jst read your original post again.

have you replaced the maf for a new one?
a faulty maf sensor will cause your car to run like crap, just unplugging it and pluggin it back in will not fix the prob,

when my maf was faulty, it did not giv me any error code (some dont)
and it was causing hestiation and caused my car to run at half boost, the ecu puts it into safe mode etc..

whe i replaced the sensor, i reset the ecu at that point, but you should notice an instant diff,


one way to test it is, stsrt the eninge, then disconnect the maf, if the engine cuts out or starts to splutter, then the maf seems ok,
but the engine carrys on runing as per normal as if you aint done nothing, then it is faulty.

you get get new sensors from ebay, but i got mine from a guy from subaru forresters. if you need, i can provide a tel number.
i got mine for £79,
main dealers have them but they are silly money.

oh also maybe worth saving the following link in your favourites, tells you about error codes and ecu resseting etc:
http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co....iag%20Page.htm

keen dean

I tried testing it as I had it swapped the other day for a 2nd hand one.
I tested it by disconnecting the maf, then I tried to start it, it ran very high revs. I then plugged it back in and reset the ecu

dieard

ok, just give the car 50 miles, or a week or so, those steps i wrote in prev post will just advance it a little, then hopefully you will return to your normal boost,


im not a pro, and far from a mechanic, but i have had same ecperiances, and its always nice to help someone who has the same prob.

do you have aboost gauge? if so, what was you boost running at and whats it at now?

one other thing, dont switch your engine off to test it, its is safe to disconnect while the engine is ticking over, its all easier to notice the engine change noise etc.

flashgordon666

hey- i just bought a scooby the garage didnt put any petrol in so i just made it to a garage before it ran out and put 95ron in. Now im goign to put 97ron in. And heard you have to reset the ecu because its quicker then letting it think for itself to change.
How do i reset it and is that true?