MAF Testing
29 April 2005, 11:20 AM
#1
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MAF Testing
Is there a better/more accurate way to test apart from the stall test? Should the engine be hot or cold or doesn't it make a difference?
On my MY99 with Tek3 i still get hesitation and on a recent rolling road was only showing 215bhp instead of 260-280 i was expecting although the torque was over 250 lbs. I disconnected the maf (renewed within the last 12 months)
and it nearly stalls but doesn't.Is that a pass or a fail? Does it stall straight away if the maf's dodgy?
PeteS
On my MY99 with Tek3 i still get hesitation and on a recent rolling road was only showing 215bhp instead of 260-280 i was expecting although the torque was over 250 lbs. I disconnected the maf (renewed within the last 12 months)
and it nearly stalls but doesn't.Is that a pass or a fail? Does it stall straight away if the maf's dodgy?
PeteS
29 April 2005, 03:12 PM
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BTW - it is not a failsafe method of finding a failing MAF - Just an additional check that can be done!
I think the only true way(s) of testing are to read the voltage the MAF is sensing (not sure on what it should be) or replace the MAF and see if the problem is cured!
I think the only true way(s) of testing are to read the voltage the MAF is sensing (not sure on what it should be) or replace the MAF and see if the problem is cured!
29 April 2005, 03:34 PM
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I think you're dead right there Tony. I had a MAF problem where it hadn't failed totally but it wasn't outputting the full voltage range.
The ECU was coping with it, but after an ECU reset as part of a tuning run the problem came to light as all of a sudden the mapper could hear detonation events. Quick MAF swap and the det was gone.
The ECU was coping with it, but after an ECU reset as part of a tuning run the problem came to light as all of a sudden the mapper could hear detonation events. Quick MAF swap and the det was gone.
01 May 2005, 06:13 PM
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more maf discussions
On another thread i see that you should have a reading of 1000-1300mv at warm idle.How do you take this reading?Is it via deltadash or similar?Or can you just stick a multimeter on it?How do you get a reading at idle?(no air flow?)
PeteS
PeteS
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02 May 2005, 11:04 AM
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Can be tested with a multimeter on the wires (would have to check which pins to use) - their will be airflow at idle, as if the car is ticking over at 750rpms, it must be getting air to keep running.
Easiest way is with deltadash though!
Easiest way is with deltadash though!
02 May 2005, 11:41 AM
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maf sensor?????????
hi i put a k&n air filter on my98 uk turbo. now when the car is warm and i stop at traffic lights e.t.c. it drops revs but doesnt stall. i've heard that after market air filters can kill mafs is this true or do i have some other problem. thanks
02 May 2005, 12:01 PM
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After market air filters can kill the maf by 2 ways....
1-Excess oil in filter that fly to the sensor.
2-Excess vibration, because the short tam (etc) is not firmly secured!
Other that that, maf failes happen to stock ones also....
1-Excess oil in filter that fly to the sensor.
2-Excess vibration, because the short tam (etc) is not firmly secured!
Other that that, maf failes happen to stock ones also....
02 May 2005, 05:31 PM
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maf sensor
Originally Posted by nunosm
Oh...and do an ECU reset if you change the air filter....
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