austen_wrx

What voltage LEDS did you buy, the ones i bought (12v) don't light up as quick or as bright as the ones fitted in the unit

ru'

I have no idea about the knocklink (bear with me though...) but I can't see why it would be designed to take 'special' (i.e. 12V etc.) LEDs.


My guess would be to buy 'standard' ones; no doubt the device contains the necessary resistors to drop whatever voltage they use down to an LED friendly 1.5V-ish.

Granby

iTrader: (5)

If i remember right when i modded my knocklink i think they are 2.5 or 3 volt LED's and they are still working OK

gussy

iTrader: (2)

austen,
Go to maplins again they do a 5mm ultra bright led bulb in green/red/yellow when they flash on they are very bright also get some 5mm led bulb holders to keep them in place.

CJAF7R

The knocklink i purchased 2nd hand had the LED's removed from the actual knocklink box and fitted into a smaller nicer looking box instead which fits nicely on the dash!

ill get a pic tomorrow!

Granby

iTrader: (5)

Got mine from Maplins as well

gussy

iTrader: (2)

Austen if you go onto the cumbrianscoobs site on the banners at the start of the web site you will see the interior of my bugeye with the knocklink leds mounted next to the cupholder if you were thinking of a place to mount them thats as good a place as anywhere.

cw42

iTrader: (1)

contact "*****" on here, he's the knocklink refitting maestro. Did mine a treat, extending the orginal leds, and fitting it all in my 3 gauge pod.


chris.

megrac

i remote mounted mine with some thin 6 core wire. They point streight at me and are very easy to see.

austen_wrx

I used bell wire, could that be the problem??

The LEDS do come on, and the first couple of LEDs do become bright (when testing the sensor), but the last one hardly lights up at max knock, it is on but doesn't seem to respond quick enough to full illuminate. I am assuming the voltage to each LED increases with knock, until a set limit then the voltage is passed onto the next LED???

austen_wrx

Should i be using low current LED's??

Sorry i am a muppet with things like this

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

I'm not handy with a soldering iron so did this...



Took the lid of the box and used the holes as a template, drilled through and just dropped the leds through. The circuit board is still attached and tucked up above the locks. Took 30 mins max.

gussy

iTrader: (2)

Austen,
1mm bell wire will be no problem thats what I used, as for current Im a numpty on that score all I did as I said earlier was to use the 5mm ultra bright leds from maplins they work a treat.

austen_wrx

They only do 2 colours though

I think its the 12v leds i have bought as they are designed to go across 12v, i should have used the standard

gussy

iTrader: (2)

Austen,
If your stuck I have some spare ones here red/yell/green + bulb holders can pop them in the post to you if you want?

austen_wrx

ok, i've found them on the website, i'll get my coat

cheers gussy, but i'm going to nick out from work and get some

austen_wrx

Are these them :-

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...dID=3&doy=10m3

gussy

iTrader: (2)

Yup

austen_wrx

cool, cheers

kris55

Ok this is going to sound stupid but as a newbie
I got to ask
BUt what does the knocklink do
And there must be more to it than just the LED's

austen_wrx

It detects detonation in the engine, i.e. engine running lean.

kris55

And I take it that you need to make shore that the car is in the green with the leds
So its kinda important if you have bought an import
Well that is if you wont to keep it in good working order
Are they really called knocklinks as well Im only asking you know what its like just cos that what there called here dont mean that when you go and buy one there called that and I wouldnt wont to be looked at like I was stupid

WUZ

iTrader: (14)

Only downside to the way Playsatan did it is that getting at the pot resistor to set up SENSATIVITY (very crutial, so you see what is really happening, not background noise) is difficult.

Russell

ps - I've modeed 20 of these now and it is easy and fairly cheap to do!

austen_wrx

So do you

1. replace the existing LEDs, i.e. remove them and put new ones on wire
2. Leave original LEDs in place and solder on some wire and new LEDs
3. remove existing LEDs, solder on extension wire, and reuse LED's

If you use new LEDs, what do you use?

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't say that its difficult at all. 2 screws hold the clock surround in place, 5 minutes to strip, adjust & reassemble tops.

I would have though it was more accessable than the remote led option as the bos is normally tucked up under the dash?

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure its been mentioned before, but the 12v leds you bought have its own internal resistor. The ones you need are just standard ones, will probably say 2V.

Also when extending the leds, you can use 1 wire to common to the positive side (long leg) rather than using 10 wires you can use 6.

Don't leave the original leds in the knocklink - the new leds will be in parallel, so they may compete with each other - worst case is the extended ones will not turn on whilst the ones in the box happily work away.

Edit to say

I used new leds - ultrabrites

Green RS 590-525
Yellow RS 590-519
Red RS 590-531

austen_wrx

will get some normal ones, i thought i was being clever buying the 12v one !!!

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

See my edit above for LED info

mikeswrx02

You are wicked. I will do mine asap!!!
Mike

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

Go for it Mike. It's such a bunus having it right above the rev counter in you line of sight.

Just make sure it fits before you start drilling. I've got a my99 but when we had the dash out of my mates my96 I noticed there was nowhere near enough room to do the same.

When you take the box apart to use the holes as a template, tape the empty case to the inside of the cowling first and make sure yiu can get it back into place beforehand. Will save any tears later.